Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 XLT Vibrates Between 50 - 60 MPH
Feb 5, 2015
Recently I noticed a "thunking" noise when I accelerated from a stop and a vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. For what it is worth, I baby this vehicle. I took it to the shop and had three U-joints replaced, the next day I noticed a severe vibration was still there. I returned to the shop where they kept it for two days and cannot figure out what is causing the problem.
They re-balanced the tires, checked the alignment, brakes, calipers, rotors and even had the drive shaft re-balanced (which they said was out by 30,000) and took it to a local transmission shop who said the problem is not in the transmission but it is still occurring. They finally admitted defeat and suggested I take it to the dealer. It has 149+ thousand miles on it and a 5.4 engine.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I just bought a 2006 f150 exteneded cab w/ 5.4 V-8 and it vibrates when accelerating from a stopped position but not all the time---happens more when the wheel is turned. It definitely feels like the vib is coming from the left front side. I just got it back from the shop and the mechanic told me the vibration was stemming from the rear and that he exhchanged the fluid and added anti-friction additiver but that he expects the problem to continue.
View 4 Replies
I recently bought a 2006 screw. When first started ,upon take off in drive,just as you get into the gas it has a vibration for a few seconds. Only does it once just after each start up.
Took it to the dealer they said it was abs motor running a test cycle. They checked another 2006 on the lot and it did the same thing. You can feel it through the accelerator pedal and it really annoys me. Is it common to only 2006 models?
View 2 Replies
I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
View 14 Replies
I just bought a 2008 Sonata GLS 2.4L, 4-cyl., automatic, 74000 miles.
I found that the steering wheel, sometimes the seat, vibrates at idle in "D" and "R". And the vibration reduces a lot in "N".
Is this common for this model? If it's not common, how to repair this problem?
View 5 Replies
Our 2008 Camry just started with the front end vibration about a month ago. I can really only notice it when accelerating and decelerating at around 40 mph. The front end seems to shake side to side. So far, I have had the tires balanced, rotated, and the front end aligned. The garage found one of the tires had a very small flat spot on one tire and replaced it. This did not fix anything. They sent me to a transmission sop, they said they saw nothing.
The steering wheel does not vibrate at all. Whether I use the brake or not, it always vibrates around 40, maybe up to 50. If the car is vibrating at any other speeds, I cannot feel it. The transmission place said maybe one of the axles is a little bit bent. But, couldn't say why the car did not shake at all speeds if it was bent.
I am going to bring it to a Toyota dealer. Are there any technical bulletins that might address this potential problem?
View 4 Replies
we recently bought a 2008 Camry LE (Automatic), and from the beginning, I've noticed something that is nothing more than an annoyance, but I am starting to not get that impression. The problem is that at a stop, in any drive gear, I have a vibration from the engine. The engine is warmed up and everything. Shift into neutral, it goes away immediately (like I can feel it dissipate as it disengages the gear). No vibrations while driving, only to a stop. Tach reads about 650-700ish and goes up to sometimes 8 in neutral. We also have an OBD-II reader, and no codes are being thrown, no lights on the dash indicating any warnings either.
Now I have just put 2000 miles on it yesterday from when we bought it, and it has a little over 40k on the odometer. My worry is that there is a possible issue with the torque converter or transmission. Any issues with the torque converter that might cause this? Or is there something else that might cause this? If there is an issue that can prove something is faulty, the dealer we bought it from has a warranty that covers almost everything besides oil and filters and whatnot, so hopefully there should be no problem. Like I said, though, it is an annoyance, and I do not want this to escalate to something worse.
View 5 Replies
I have an 06 Honda CRV with 140,000 miles that is having a vibration problem. My husband was trying to tell me that it was just the road but I know that is not the case. It feels like I am driving over rumble strips on the side of a highway but it only happens when the rpms are around 1500. It us usually when I am going around 45 mph or 55 mph. I can be driving straight or on a curve. As soon as I take my foot off the accelerator or add more gas (change the rpms) the vibration stops. I am by no means a car expert but would like to know if this is something serious. I would like to take a road trip but don't know if I can trust the car.
View 7 Replies
The car developed a vibration at freeway speed (65-80+) and the dealer kept saying it was tire balance, alignment, etc. After replacing tires, having them road force balance the tires and do an alignment, car still had the vibration. Contacted Lexus and the service manager drove with me and immediately felt the vibration. they double checked the balance, alignment, etc. and decided it was shocks. Car has 70,000 miles. Lexus agreed to pay for 2 of the struts. Picked up the car and it is like new. Smooth as silk. the old shocks did not have signs of being worn out, leaking or being bad. I was a bit hesitant but the Service Manager said if it didn't fix the problem, they would put the old ones back on and I wouldn't pay for anything.
I have my car serviced only at the dealer and they have stood behind the car. Lexus also. I had the control arm problem and Lexus stepped up and paid for that repair.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Lexus GS 350 AWD. I've noticed that when I am at a light that the car has a little bit of a vibration, not bad but I notice it. I have put it in D and R and the car does the small vibration. When I put it into N it completely stops and is still. What the heck would that be from?
Also my steering wheel has a bit of a vibration when driving. I've especially noticed it at 20 - 25 MPH. It doesn't do it more when I brake, it is just something that happens and I can feel the whole time. What do you all think that could be?
View 14 Replies
The car model is Hyundai Sonata NF 2006 (3.3 GLS - USA).
The Problem: The machine is galloping ahead without depressing the gas pedal, that is automatically speeds up (40 ~ 60 mph.). Tachometer gains 1,500-2,000 rpm from breakaway place.
While driving the car slows down and sometimes rpm-s jump to 3000. When I stop at a traffic light or rear of another vehicle while pressing "D" holding the brake pedal the car rushes forward and the engine vibrates that I hardly hold the pedal. Likewise, when driving backwards pressing "R" it is really hard to hold the brake pedal.
Steps taken with the car before problem:
1. Washed the engine compartment about 1-1.5 months earlier.
2. No more changes were made.
Taken solutions:
1. Computer diagnostics in HYUNDAI SERVICE shows no mistakes at all. Additional two diagnosis were made in two other locations showed no errors.
2. Replaced automatic transmission oil (without filter change - as remote and a lot of work on it).
3. Cleaned the throttle.
4. Checked the crankshaft sensor.
5. Checked for the presence of a layer of soot or corroded wires around / at the bottom of the engine.
Master opinion:
1. Electrician: totally eliminates the problem of the electrical part. He recommended to check the mechanical parts and automatic transmission. Also, try to replace the throttle.
2. Automatic transmissions master: he says there is no problem in the automatic transmission, as by shifting to "P" and "N" the car runs smoothly. And during the ride except for pressing the brake everything looks fine with the automatic transmission.
View 1 Replies
I have just purchased a brand new LX570.
I can only explain that the vehicle vibrates. Whether driving, accelerating or decelerating there is a constant vibration just like driving on a poor road surface. We have superbly flat and new Roads in Dubai, and I drive them every day in my 2 other (far less expensive) 4WD's and I do not feel shaken, stirred or positively nauseous. The only time u feel at ease in my new Lexus is when I am stationary. Transmission also occasionally lags and I can feel the gear changes, sometimes a judder and a bit of a jump as it searches for the gear. Take off is sluggish (i know it's a big car!) but I feel it's not good enough for the car that it is supposed to be.
This is my first Lexus. I opted for the full top of the range with s few extra options and a big spend. This is certainly not the car I was expecting and it is definitely not the Lexus experience that I thought that I would get. What is the problem with vibration? The whole body shakes ( not the steering wheel) albeit mildly, it vibrates almost constantly. it is simply not a smooth drive.
The Lexus service centre has changed all the tyres at 100 km claiming flat spots due to transit and storage. The car now has 300 km on the clock. It's not the tyres or the alignment. They claim to have run full diagnostics but found nothing. I can't believe that his issue is on my car only. I have taken 2 other drivers out and they agree with my concerns, something is definitely wrong.
View 8 Replies
I have recently bought a new truck this month and everything was nice and dandy till i noticed an annoying jerking at 45-50 mph. The check engine light didn't come on till recently when it got really bad and would barely start. I hooked a code reader up to it and it said cylinder 6&8 misfire. So I had the coils replaced on those two cylinders and it seemed to start and idle better.
So I took it on the interstate to see if the jerking was gone as well. and it still jerks at 45-50 just like before. I was going to take it to the dealership to have them figure out what the issue is but that's 100 bones just to figure out what the problem is. My mechanic doesn't want to mess with the spark plugs because he knows they always break.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2006 Ford 150 FWD XLT. So here is the problem. I sustained right front damage in an accident and 4WD worked prior to and after the accident (before going to the shop). Before the accident it would easily lock into 4WD but would sometimes have trouble getting out of it. When I received the truck back from the shop and went to use 4WD a week later nothing happened No lights no nothing. I tried it in neutral, drive and reverse. I took it back and they said it was the shift motor and not related to the accident so they couldn't fix it. So I just bolted a new one on and still nothing. I checked the solenoid and it appears to be working. I also checked the fuses and still nothing. The shop did replace the right front hub assembly.
View 1 Replies
Front brakes appear not to release all the way. At Times car does not accelerate . At times car vibrates at 60 MPh.
View 5 Replies
just picked up a high mile f-150. (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. It worked. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat) , where is it controlled from? Seems to ride a little rougher than i expected. new tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. it seems to ride just about as good.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 4.6L that's hard to start when it's relatively cold outside.
Normally, when it's warm outside, I can barely bump the starter, and it starts right up. But when it's cold outside, it usually takes 3 or 4 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. Even then, it has a really rough "about to die" idle, until about 10-15 seconds, and then it idles without a problem. Once it's running, it runs great.
It has 79k miles on it, and all I've done to it is put in a throttle body spacer, and a K&N filter. I've read a few posts from people that have had similar issues, that had K&N filters, but their problems have been more consistent. Mine only seems to happen when it's first started.
As far as I know, the plugs have never been changed, as with the COPs. I've heard about a vacuum line running to the throttle body may be the culprit, but haven't been able to find any more details on that, like where the line runs to, possible replacement part number for it, etc.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 F-150 Supercab King Ranch 4wd. The 4wd is not working. Took it to the dealer and they tell me the 4wd module is not communicating with the PCM. It is my understanding that this problem is rare...like 1 in a million. Ford wants to replace the entire PCM. In the past, I have had electrical problems with this vehicle due to corroded wires.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2006 f150 I just bought after my F250 was stolen. It has about 70k miles. It has been running pretty rough ever since I got it. It finally threw codes so I tried to address all the issues. Changed out a couple coils and all the plugs (motorcraft platinum). The camshaft sensor was also bad. Truck runs much better but still has an idle issue I cant seem to nail down.
I assume its something to do with air intake. It doesnt happen all the time. It runs rough and knocks and sometimes dies. If I give it gas it stops. I read it could be the idle air intake valve, but then I read that this model doesnt have one. I also read that air intake issues dont normally throw codes. Are there any common problems I could look for? Would cleaning the throttle body do any good?
I know the basics, but this kind of thing is tough for me to troubleshoot. You may have already seen me post this problem, but I didnt get much response so I thought I'd try one last time.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2006 F150 4.6 175,000 miles in pretty good shape and well maintained. Lately, the A/C has acted weird. When I first turn it on, it blows air, but the air does not chill until I have a pretty good RPM going. Then it's fine. Once it starts chilling, it's good to go even when RPM is low (like at a red light). It's just the initial acceleration.
View 7 Replies
I have an 06' F-150. Last monday went to start and wouldnt crank over. I have since replaced FPDM, a weak fuel pump, checked Fuel Inertia Switch and now that they are all replaced when I check codes it says "no data available". Pump will not come on. Fuses have been checked. I have traced this problem to everything I can think of. If my ECM is fried, why would it have worked fine before replacing FPDM? I am at a dead end. Mechanic is at a dead end.
View 9 Replies
