Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 XLT Started Running Rough Out Of Nowhere Near Idle
Jul 20, 2011
I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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I have a 2006 f150 I just bought after my F250 was stolen. It has about 70k miles. It has been running pretty rough ever since I got it. It finally threw codes so I tried to address all the issues. Changed out a couple coils and all the plugs (motorcraft platinum). The camshaft sensor was also bad. Truck runs much better but still has an idle issue I cant seem to nail down.
I assume its something to do with air intake. It doesnt happen all the time. It runs rough and knocks and sometimes dies. If I give it gas it stops. I read it could be the idle air intake valve, but then I read that this model doesnt have one. I also read that air intake issues dont normally throw codes. Are there any common problems I could look for? Would cleaning the throttle body do any good?
I know the basics, but this kind of thing is tough for me to troubleshoot. You may have already seen me post this problem, but I didnt get much response so I thought I'd try one last time.
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I just received a 06 F150xl with a 5.4 triton and idles rough with the following codes! p0357 p0012 p0340 p0344 p0351 p0352 p0356 p0358 p0357 p0102 p0113 p0353 p0354 p0355 It's amazing the truck even runs and with no light on but it will accelerate. someone mentioned to clear the codes and drive it 50miles or so and read them again.
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I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
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Ok new issue that started yesterday only get it at idle. Runs great above idle no real power loss or change in fuel econ. Haven't really had a chance to test much. I was thinking maybe a injector issue but I don't know
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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I just bought a used 2006 Ford F-150 it has the Triton 4.6L V8. Seems to be running ok a little white smoke on start up, but the other night after leaving work at 5am when it was around 10 degrease freezing. When I started my truck it was idling very rough like it was about to die but it didn't after it warmed up it was a little better but I think I seen black smoke from the rear end, but like I said after it was warm it sounded like normal so I started to head home and got about 15 mins down the road and it started to run very bad like it was bogging down and lost all power if I pushed on the gas all the way I was not picking up any speed but if I let off the gas the truck would jerk very bad and gain speed. But the next day in the morning it started up fine no problem I even drove it around town with no issue. What this issue could be?
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I recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 with sct livewire, arp studs&gaskets, oil cooler, blue spring mod, sinister egr cooler and it had been giving me some real troubles lately. Started off as a code for injector #8 so I replaced that and while I was in there I rebuilt the oil rail with new nipple cups and orings, replaced standpipe and dummy plug in that bay(also updated the arc fitting less than a year ago), new exhaust back pressure sensor tube because it was right plugged with carbon, and a new egr valve because that was right packed with carbon as well, all backed together and torqued to spec from the Haynes manual and the truck still sounds like its missing at an idle with some light smoke(just smells like unburnt fuel). From there I went to test the ficm which is also only a couple years old and it seems to stay at a constant 48v so at this point...
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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Am I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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I have diagnostic trouble codes P0K92 and P0K7K set on my 2008 Gen. II Prius. I have searched the forums and cannot locate these two codes.
I started and drove my car for several miles today, then it started to run rough. I pulled over, then called a tow truck to tow my car back home. I have a high-level scanner/code reader that read P0K92 and P0K7K codes.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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