Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 XLT - Replacing Wheel Hub Assembly?
Feb 6, 2013
I've got an 06 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6L. I'm replacing the wheel Hub bearing assembly this evening and got the old one removed. Opened the new on to find no grease! I was shocked considering I just replaced the IWE and they come pre-greased. I plan on adding some grease around the hub gear but wondered if i should some how get grease in on that inner needle bearing? I have to have this put back together in a couple of hours so I can drive to work tomorrow.
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I need to replace the motor mounts on my truck. Is there any special tools or tricks I will need before I get half way into it and find myself in a bind? Oh yeah it's a 5.4L
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So car not turning over after replacing (right side) headlight assembly. Was turning over prior. Replaced the battery, same result.
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I got a warning light that the Toyota dealer said indicated that the Coolant Storage Assembly tank had gone bad. It's not leaking, just not working. It's a very expensive fix and in the little bit of research I've done I'm wondering whether it needs to be fixed. My understanding is that it takes warm coolant and stores it in a thermos-like container to stay warm a few days to assist cold starts. However, I live near San Francisco and the weather is very mild here. We might have a few below freezing days in the winter, but for the majority of the year nights are only 50 degrees, and usually only 40 degrees n the winter. So, do I really need this fixed? It seems that since the weather here is so mild it should be fine. BTW, I haven't fixed it since the light went on in January and haven't had any problems starting the car so far.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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Is it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
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How to access the plugin for the 3rd brake light, cant seem to find it from the top, do I need to remove the headliner?
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looking to replace the front wheel bearings on my 06 Mountaineer. Detroit Axle? I found them on both ebay and amazon and prices almost seem too good to be true (under $100, 12 month warranty).
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4L 43000mi. My four wheel drive is not working. I have the dash mounted switch to switch it into 4x4 Hi 4x4 Low. When I put the switch into 4x4 Hi nothing happens. 4x4 does not engage, and the 4x4 Hi light on the dash does not illuminate. I get the same symptom when the switch is placed into 4x4 Low. I have checked all of the 4x4 fuses and they are ok. I checked all of the vacuum lines to the hubs and they appear to be intact. What I should check next? What would cause this?
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my f150 has the push button 4x4 and the light on the dash illuminates but i get no power to the front wheels only a grinding noise if the rear wheels spin.
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I'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...
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I purchased a 2006 Lariat crew cab 4x4 back in early feb... since then, I've been on the Interstates a little more than usual ( traveling back home.. dad had a surgery 3 hours away) . . . anyway, the truck gets kinda loose feeling when coming onto bridges and off of them, almost like the back end is swaying and the tires are leaving the ground in the front.. my steering wheel gets loose for a split sec. When I bought the truck I wrote this off as bad tires.. it had some over inflated BFG stock looking tires and where too small.
now, I have new wheels and new tires one size up on the tire. While the ride is great off any bumps.. the second I hit a bump it gets squirmy... I had a guy look at the shocks, he said the seemed ok.. could it be possible to have the wrong shocks on ?
My 2004 crew 4x4 did not do this.. so I know its not a characteristic of the truck. Tired of feeling like I am driving on ice... which is how I lost my 04. My first guess was the Shocks... I bought a level kit for my 04 and never got to put it on... so, it may work out to replace them while I am at it.
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I have removed knuckle assembly and pressed out bearing hub assembly, I have the new bearing hub assembly..... I live in Iowa so there is corrosion on the knuckle assembly - I have removed enough that the new bearing assembly will go in....
My question/concern : With the corrosion removed the surface of the knuckle where the bearing will seat is not uniform all the way around. The bearing hub assembly will go in and will require pressure to do so but will the bearing last? I can buy a steering knuckle but do not want to if I don't have to.
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The drivers side headlight assembly on my 2008 Prius has moisture in it. I have 52,000 miles on the car, so I do not think it is covered under warranty. What / how can you replace the headlight assembly?
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We have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
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I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
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I may have to replace the starter on my truck. Have heard it is difficult especially on the top bolt. Any stickys/bulletins on how to do this.
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I'd like to put in a louder turn signal flasher on my 2007 F150 - where is it located and where I can get a louder one ?
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From what I've read, I have a special 16" 7 spoke alloy European version wheel on my '09 Prius. Unfortunately, I hit a big pothole and bent the rim enough to render it unusable. I've searched a while and have been unsuccessful in finding a replacement.
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This past week I changed out the front wheel bearing hub assemblys on both sides. I'm curious if completely disassembled one of the units? If so what did you use to get the large nut with the 4 notches in it off?
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I just put a new front driver side wheel hub assembly on last week and i discovered two things. The metal plate that goes in behind the wheel hub assembly needs replaced but idk what it is and i need a new axle seals. But when i put the new hub assembly on, the abs light came on and i cant seem to figure out why? Also my front drivers side of the truck is still making a clunk noise when i hit a bump. Input on that too?
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