Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 V8 - OBD Error P0302 / Low RPM Torque Causes Major Shuddering
Feb 28, 2012
2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
View 1 Replies
I'm lost. Got P0171 and P0302 ... 2006 4.2 V6 5-speed 220K ... Got bad miss ...
Compression check was good.
Replaced plugs.
Replaced wires.
Replaced coil pack.
Cleaned MAF
Miss remains. What do I do next?
View 4 Replies
2009 Accent, 1.6L 154,xxx Cylinder two misfire. Engine was rebuilt due to timing belt. Twice. Second time I did it. Replaced plugs, coil packs, all gaskets, (everything new in the head) did a smoke test, compression test 180 psi across all four, used a noid light for coil packs (good) did it at the injectors 1,3,4 did good, but 2 came on then went off. Check resistance and it shows good, replaced injector anyway and the connecter. Still doesn't work. Checked powers and grounds at the rail, good. Good solid voltage. I hooked up a scan tool and tried to shut injector 2 off, no change in RPM or vibration. Scan tool worked for 1,3,4. Used another PCM, still misfire in two. Even jumped a wire from PCM control and 15A inj fuse for the 12V constant (bypassed the harness) and still doesn't work. Also have knock sensor code, just two codes.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
View 7 Replies
Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
View 7 Replies
I've looked at several threads but no one describes my exact problem. The issue started suddenly. When I am in 4WD and turn (does not have to be sharp) there is a dragging and rubbing noise. It drags hard enough that it will stop the truck.
Sounds like the brakes engaging and rubbing. I can not see any foreign material wrapped up anywhere. The 4WD appears to be engaging properly and the IWE appear to be working. I can "stomp on it" in a straight line and throw mud with no crazy noises and get a rooster tail from the front end.
I've got about 15000 on new brakes and rotors. Ceramic pads and lifetime rotors all the way around.
View 8 Replies
Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
View 13 Replies
My 04 F-150 has recently been blowing these two codes. I've replaced the coil pack already and it is still making the check engine line come off. Just put some injector cleaner in the tank last night, so that might take a while to work through. What I should be looking for?
View 8 Replies
2008 5.4L ...I started a thread before concerning my tranny shuddering while in OD. It did it before and after a tranny rebuild. That's when I learned of the common problem of a bad coil pack not allowing trans to lock out into OD. Yesterday I took the truck to a shop to have it scanned. I was hoping to find out which cylinder is the problem. No fault codes were found. Now the mechanic thinks its the tranny, and the tranny guy(who has had the truck twice) says its a coil pack. I can change it if I can figure out which one it is. Do I have anymore options left to find the bad coil pack, or am I left with changing them all.
View 2 Replies
My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
View 2 Replies
E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
View 4 Replies
Over the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
View 5 Replies
Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
View 8 Replies
I am finally getting around to changing the trans fluid on my 05 f150 5.4 4wd xlt auto, what is the torque value for the trans pan bolts.
View 1 Replies
I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
View 14 Replies
This has been an ongoing issue with our 2006. We purchased the car about a year ago and have put on just over 8,000 miles. Rebuilt the battery pack and replaced the 12v battery. This is my wife's car and I have a 2005, so I have done some diagnostics, tuneup, and even swapped some parts between the two cars trying to narrow down the issues.
Only recently have codes been recorded. The car is has a noticeable misfire at low RPM. Here is what has happened up until now:
11/29/15 - replaced spark plugs - #1 was fouled so I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 4
2/25/16 - replaced 12v battery with new battery
4/1/16 - P0300, P0301 codes were first recorded and reset to see if they came back
4/10/16 - swapped Integration Relay with my 2005 (part # 82641-47010). My 2005 ran poorly after the swap, so I put a used one in my 2005.
View 19 Replies
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
View 1 Replies
I leave my car for 2 weeks without driving, and when I start the power, I have check engine light on and I drive to the dealer right away. Mechanic performs diagnostic test for engine misfire no engine miss found. The error code is P0302/P3191. The mechanic told me that I always run the car in very low on fuel, and it causes the 2nd cylinder misfile or not running when the fuel is very low. They suggest me always pump the gas when the fuel indicator has 2 bars left.
My question is that: How come the car cannot run in low fuel, low fuel doesn't mean no fuel, and it can damage the engine/cylinder?
View 7 Replies
