Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Tailgate Cap Broke - Replace Or Repair?
Aug 20, 2012
I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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Just bought a 2006 f150, the tailgate hinge seems to be rusted to the cup(drivers side). Any tips for repairing/ getting it freed up?
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Odd thing happened. All of a sudden the factory emblem on my 2008 tailgate totally lost all of its blue and is now pure chrome. Happened just like that.
Anyway, is it screwed on and do I need to pull the panel on the tailgate to remove it? Here's the tailgate on my truck for reference.
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Do the later model F150 retractable step tailgates would fit a 2004 F150 Fx4 Bed, or has the rear part of the bed been changed in design, so as to make this not possible (by progression, not necessarily intention).
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What's up with the little nub hanging off the tailgate?
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I have a 2004 F150 Fx4 and i just locked the tailgate for the first time and now i cannot unlock it. I turned it clockwise to lock it and I am trying to turn it counter clockwise to unlock it and it seems like its putting too much tension on the key.... Am I doing something wrong?
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So I'm having a tailgate issue. When I open my tailgate, sometimes the internal spring wants to keep it up, rather then letting it open down. It also makes an odd popping noise during operation from time to time......I don't see or feel anything broke in it.
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I though I would like the tailgate step and assist handle. They are always in the way and I want to get rid of the handle but keep the step if possible. Can I remove the plastic tailgate cover, pull the hande and re-install a metal tailgate cover.
If not, want to swap a tailgate. Its red, has the back-up camera and, no dealer markings and in excellent condition.
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Well heck, the PO of the truck I just bought has lost the spare key to the ignition, and the key that opens the tailgate and unlocks the spare tire. First question, is the key to the tailgate and spare tire the same key or are they different?
Second question, is there any simple way to have new keys cut for these things?
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
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I'm replacing the lug nuts on all 4 wheels, however, I do not want to jack up the car. Can I replace one lug nut at the time per tire and then move to the next tire without lifting the car?
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How soon one should replace the original shocks on a car or SUV with normal (not heavy duty or off road) use?
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On my 04 150 auto, the clip that holds the shift cable to the trans selector shaft broke, Ford says i need to buy the whole cable and what did you do?
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Took my 2003 Honda civic hybrid to a budget tune and lube. They said that I needed my fluid changed, I agreed, they changed it (did not flush it). It has 95k on it. Later that night the car broke down, I took it to honda they're telling me that I need a new transmission, there are pieces of a chain in the fluid that they drained. Supposedly the budget tune and lube used a CVT fluid called "Full throttle" honda is telling me that you cannot use anything but honda fluid and the tune and lube is not taking responsibility. Could this have destroyed the transmission?
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2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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I busted a spring and apparently a strut. The mechanic said I'd need to replace the front suspension, and offered to do it for 1000$ which I thought was very high. Now I am debating whether to simply get a cup kit or coil overs. I am leaning towards the cup kit to save money. Now I am curious what you guys think regarding the H&R cup kit and where I could get the best deal on them.
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
[URL] .....
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My 2008 Prius needs a new panel that holds the license plate lights and the trunk release and lock buttons. Needed to properly replace the release button several years ago but was just using electric tape as a stop gap but now the entire panel broke off, not just the push screws but part of the panel broke. What this part is called?
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