Alright so I ran into a problem I went to turn on my passenger side dome light in my '06 F150 supercrew and it will not turn on. i just replaced the bulb and still nothing. If it could possibly be a blown fuse or something simple?
View 6 RepliesMy rear passengers side turn signal is not working. The bulb is lit up when i have my parking lights on so i know that th bulb is good. So my guess is that there is a voltage issue. I have searched the web for a wiring diagram and have come up empty handed.
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 2004 F150 FX4 Supercab, I had a safety inspection done and am working through some of the issues.
The turn signal indicator on the passenger side mirror is not working (front and rear indicators work). I took the mirror apart and get no voltage to the led array, next I pulled the rubber boot off of the harness in the door jam and probed the wires while with a test light and found one of the wires would blink the test lest light but the colour didn't match the the turn signal array, it matched the heated mirror wire. I probed at the heated mirror connector at the mirror and sure enough it blinks! Then I notice that the heated mirror indicator light on the center dash is blinking? I push the heated mirror button below the indicator light and ALL turn signals (front and rear) stop.
I searched the forum for mirror turn signal issues and found a thread about corroded wire splice below the fuse panel. I checked and have no splice all look ok so I thought I would post and see if I can get some direction or a schematic.
The symptoms are :
- Passenger side mirror turn signal(right turn) indicator does not work
- front and rear turn signal indicators work
- power seat works
- fuses are good
- drivers side all turn signals work fine
- heated mirror indicator light on the dash blinks with the passenger side turn signal
- pushing the heated mirror button when turn signals are flashing (right turn) results in a solid heated mirror indicator light but all other right turn signal indicator stop blinking (off)
It seems to me that there must be a short between the two circuits but where?
My 2006 F150 Lariat screw has a passengers side water leak that runs down under the passengers side dashboard on to the fuse box , electrical connections , etc... My rug is soaked ....
I thought it was the ac / defroster condensation drain issue covered in the TSB and did that fix ( not an easy job ! ), but that's not it. I sprayed water on the passengers side windshield and watched it leak on the inside. I broke down and took it to the dealership and they can't find the leak . They still have my truck ! They don't think it's a windshield leak and I don't either .
I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT with wear on the driver side bucket. Wanted to know if the buckets are interchangeable with passenger side? Just move controls to other side or can't be done?
View 9 Replies2004 F-150. Today, I noticed the map/dome lights wouldn't turn off no matter what I did with the switch. Also noticed the cargo lights were on as well. Pulled fuse #24 (appears to be good) and that seemed to fix the problem: lights are now able to be controlled by the switch. When I reinstall fuse #24, same problem. Also, battery seemed to be drained and the radio pre-sets were gone. Am I right in suspecting the battery saver relay? If so, which relay is it and can I replace it myself or is it factory soldered?
View 1 RepliesI am having difficulty removing the dome light cover over the rear seat to replace the bulb. I can get a flat blade or narrow putty knife between the plastic cover and the roof liner material -- but it won't "pop" out.
View 3 RepliesI owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
At first the passenger side front parking light would randomly not turn on until you gave the light assembly a hard tap. Now I am having the same problem with the driver side low beam light. I checked the harness connector and it clicks firmly into place. So, I am guessing there's something not grounded properly somewhere on the light assembly. I'm hoping that a light film of dielectric grease will work but I can't tell where to put it.
View 1 RepliesMy Dad just took delivery on a 2008 King Ranch F150 last night and after he got it home, he noticed the dome lights did not work. We checked all the fuses and bulbs. Also tried adjusting the dimmer switch, but we cant figure out why the dome light will not turn on.
View 3 RepliesLooking for the dome light lens cover for the front passenger side. the one you push in...
Mine has some extremely sticky substance on it and i tried goof off soap and wirebrush but it won't go away.
My trailer left turn signal and brake light stopped working. The running lights work on the trailer. The lights all work on the truck. I am hooked up to a 2007 F150 and it all worked 'yesterday.' not sure where to start.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Hyundai Accent. The interior dome light won't turn on, the trip mileage recycles every time the car turns on, the feature that won't let the locks lock while the key is in the ignition and the car is off doesn't work (what's that called), and the dashboard clock is dead.
The visor fell off and the two wires that provided the lighting for the visor mirror touched something, and I guess, shorted everything. Is there a fuse(s) I can change or do I need some serious electrical repair?
I have a 2004 F150 Screw Lariat and the problem is this: After turning of the truck, removing key from ignition and opening the door the following happens:
1. Radio stays on (will time out)
2. The power windows still work
3. The interior dome lights stay off
It's as if the door switches have been removed from the circuit. I've tried all doors. There are references to the GEM module but I didn't think there was one in this truck.
For the door switches, when the door is closed, the circuit is open, when the door is open the circuit is closed. I'm not sure what to check next. I checked some of the relays - auxilary delay relay, power relay etc etc. but I would think its a relay issue.
The door open signal is transmitted on the UBP network, no idea about that and they feed into the body control module - not sure where this is.
I Have a weird problem on my Lexus GS430 06. The car remains indicating that my door on the drivers side is open... especially with the dome light. When i put my interior lighting on "door" then the light on the drivers side remains on.. when i try to lock my car, the car beeps en says that there's stil a door open... and the interior lights start flashing in the car... meaning i had a dead battery the next morning...
Lets start from entering the car, while my dome light is on the "door" position. When i enter the car, en press the start button 1 time, the car ajar light is going on, and the car is beeping that there's a door open... when al my doors ar closed... but when this is happening, and i press "off" on my dome light, then its gone... when i put it back on "door" then it comes back...
Okay, now lets pres the start button again.. then, the car shows on the display that my drivers side door is open. When i put my dome light to "off" again, you see the door closing nice and easy... when i turn it to "door" again you see the door opening again...
Lets take it a step further... When i push the start button again, and thereby starting the car, then on the display, everything is okay, while the dome light, on the drivers side is still burning... When i then open my drivers side door, you'll see it open and close nice and easy on the display. So meaning.. that its not the switch on the door right?
Okay... this is where i'm at so far.... I have switched the switches from the doors from left to right, and it still remains the same... Also i have tried another dome unit from a Lexus GS450h... and its still the same... so thats both not it...
Also I have opened my driver side door panel, en removed all the connectors, en still the same thing....
I installed LED tail lights a few months ago, now all of a sudden the passenger side does not light for brakes or turn signals. The lights came with resistors that I put in when installing and the adhesive wore out and they were dangling in the truck frame. The wires connecting the resistors to the light were damaged. I taped the exposed wires and secured them a with a heavier tape, but taping did not work. I also tried switching the resistor packs with the driver side to see if it was them that have an open winding, but they are still operable.
I narrowed it down to wiring between the trailer hook up and passenger light assembly in the electrical circuit. I plugged an LED light bar into the trailer connection and the same problem occurred (running lights come on, but no turn signal or brake light). Where could there be a short? Or is this circuit fused somewhere that the running lights come on but a separate fused circuit triggers the higher voltage for LEDs.
Truck-2005 F-150 XLT 5.4L - Currently when my truck reaches a speed of 45mph+ there is a methodical knocking sound that comes from the passenger side dash. This sound is on the interior and comes from the far right corner of the dashboard.(almost as if someone is tapping with there finger every other second). There is no correlation with anything else being turned on or off that affects this sound.(i.e. air) It simply happens once I reach a certain speed and is not an outside noise. When I slow back down under 45 mph the knocking subsides.
View 3 RepliesI have an exhaust leak on the passengers side of my 2006 F-150 5.4 triton. If I do the repair which is the correct way to do it? Do I replace just the blown out gasket?
Do I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket kit, with exactly what parts should I buy in the kit? Or do i need to replace both sides?
2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?