Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Misfiring And Then Stalling When Stopping At Lights
Mar 8, 2012
I have an 2006 f-150 King Ranch with 103k miles and it was misfiring and then stalling when stopping at lights. Both cam shaft sensors and all coil packs were relaced then it was still misfiring. The head was recently replaced and now they are waiting on a new computer. When it starts misfiring it vibrates the whole truck and the engine light flashes. If you turn the truck off then back on it will run fine for about 50 miles. Im worried that replacing the computer is not going to fix it, what else could it be?
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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In my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
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I recently bought a 2006 STX with the 4.6 engine. Occassionally, when stopping at a light, the engine will stall. I took it to the dealer where I bought it and he put it on the computer and found that once on a test drive the RPM's dropped to 490, but it did not stall. He said everything checked out fine and thought it might be a carbon build up, since the truck only has 27,000 miles on it and was driven only around town. He suggested a couple of tanks of higher octane fuel and a fuel additive to remove the carbon.
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My wife has a 2006 Sonata and it ran great up until about a month ago, she started noticing when she hits the brakes and sometimes when she hits the gas the a/c blower motor would stop blowing for a second and all the lights would dim. So i drove the car for a day and she was right. the blower motor shuts off and the lights dim for roughly 1 second during breaking then it all works fine again.
What this could be? the car has no check engine light on or anything. I was hoping this is a common thing with a known fix.
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I have a 2006 King Ranch and right tail and brake lights don't work. The bulb is good. The fuse diagram in the owners manual is not the fuse box I have, so I cannot id the correct fuse to see if its bad.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
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For our new pontoon with surge brakes I need to add reverse lights to the wiring harness to deactivate the surge brakes while backing up. What is the proper way of doing this? BTW this is on an 06 F150 XLT with factory 7 pin harness.
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When I started my '06 f150 today, the dash and park lights were flashing when the headlights were off. Relay 201 was making noise like a flasher, only faster. It did not work when I pulled the relay. The lights still flashed. I asked a mechanic friend and he said to D/C the Neg battery cable, wait a couple of minutes then reconnect. I did and it worked. I guess it reset something. Just wanted to pass this along.
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Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway.
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I have a 2006 F150 xlt 5.4 3v. I've owned it since Oct. 15'. In approximately Nov. I lost the rear right brake and blinker light, and then around Christmas I lost the rear left brake and blinker. I also have no rear hazards, but the inst cluster flashes at a normal rate when the flashers are engaged. All running lights work, and 3rd brake light works. Front blinkers work and all other electrical works. Have checked all fuses and bulbs with no solution.
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My 2008 gs 350 E-brake or parking brake isn't as tight anymore on a hill it doesn't stop my car when applied when parked how to adjust this? I rather not go to the dealer if its a simple fix?
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Driving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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I've got a 2000 Ford Ranger, manual 4 cyl. When cold, she's been stalling out. It happens very reliably when I come to a stop and put it in neutral (or put the clutch in). Only when she gets warmed up does it stop. Check engine light has been on (for a long time) saying the TPS sensor is out and the 4 cyl. is misfiring. I replaced the TPS sensor and it had no effect on the problem. A friend recommended changing the oxygen sensor.
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