I just installed my Edge Evolution from my 2006 F-150 5.4 into my 2008 F-150 5.4. It is not displaying oil temperature. It just shows 0 degrees. why?
View 1 RepliesI have 2005 FX4 the odometer/temp display is flashing on and off like there is a loose connection the green back drop stay lit it's the black numbers is flashing on off it doesn't mater if it's running or in key on this is what I got ?
View 1 RepliesMy '04 Passat 4Motion (station wagon) engine coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and outside temperature display all stopped working in the same time. Interestingly enough, car has 32K miles and just ran out of manufacturer warranty 2 months ago.
What could be happening? Should I be checking fuse box or this may be related to some more serious failure?
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
My 2004 ford explorer 4.0 has this issue where the check gauges will come on for 2-3 sec, then the temp gauge will go from normal and peg to hot and as soon as it pegs it drops right back down to normal. I have had the thermostat replaced and have flushed the radiator. I am at a loss here....
View 3 RepliesJust received a new Edge CS programmer for my 2004 F150 w/ 5.4L.. Updated fusion software and tried to install but all i get is blank gauges and a eternal "loading" message. How to deal with this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Sonata. The fuel and temp gauges stopped working. Tank is full and engine temp is good. Both dont move when you turn the key on. Tried to find a fuse that they may be on but couldn't find it.
View 2 RepliesSo randomly today, my Edge is constantly rebooting and the ABS and Parking warning lights are on. My brakes feel fine though and the Edge won't stay on for longer than a few seconds before rebooting.
View 1 RepliesAll I did was cut off the straight section of tailpipe and install a 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet exhaust tip. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and a little louder when I rev it, but when I let off the gas it pops pretty loud.
I remember hearing popping on decel on videos of trucks where aftermarket exhaust/mufflers were installed, but not just from a new tip.
I just installed a Heater AC Control panel that was broken when things shifted in my truck. Now, air blows, but I get no AC. I'm wondering if something deeper in the dash was broken.
View 1 Replies2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
View 1 RepliesI have a 08 F150 king ranch and have a couple of issues. There is a strange sound coming from the dash behind the gauges it sounds like a computer hard drive clicking and the heater seems to be stuck on will not even blow outside fresh air.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
2004 F150, 4.6 V8. I'm wondering if my engine control module is going bad.
A few weeks ago I got into it in the morning, turned the ignition on, gauges responded as expected, warning lights on, etc. After starting the engine, all of the gauges peg to the left, and sort of "tremble", as if they were trying to keep going past the stop. After 5 seconds or so, they move up normally. This happens every time I start it now.
Since this weird gauge behavior started I have had to disconnect the battery to clean the negative terminal. After reconnecting it started experiencing idle problems. It idles smoothly, hitting on all 8, but it wavers. I found instructions in the owners manual for "relearning the idle and fuel trim strategy". It's been a over a week since doing this, and it still wavers and throws a P0506 error periodically, which I have been clearing. Twice while coasting the tachometer has jumped up to around 2000 rpm and the engine cut off, like maybe it thought the engine revved and closed the throttle to "slow it down".
My question is, have I just not waited long enough for it to re-learn to idle, or is it possible the engine control module is starting to fail?
My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 phaeton outside temperature reading will increase to over 100F while I'm sitting in traffic when the temp is in the 60s 70s.... Highest I've seen is 102F... I wonder how high the display will go when summer comes around. Where is the sensor located? Could engine heat affect the sensor? While driving the temp reads about 5 degrees to high.
View 8 RepliesI had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
View 3 RepliesThe battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
Just purchased this truck and noticed the gas and temp guages neither work. Where do I start/ How about fuse box?
View 5 RepliesI've been having some issues shifting and been paying more attention to the gauges. On the first start of the morning since its gotten colder, the trans temp gauge gets warm quite quick just idling and the water temp goes no where for quite a while driving or idling.
The truck essentially doesn't shift normally until the water temp is up, over revs, and shifts are much more abrupt and at higher rpm's (like shift pressure is higher if there is such a thing).
My uneducated thinking I think the sensors are reversed, I would expect the water temp to go up while idling and not the trans temp.