Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Front Differential Won't Engaging?
Sep 3, 2011
2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
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Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
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My front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
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4WD will not work. the front differential will not engage but the transfer case does.
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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i have a 2007 ford truck and the 4wd will not engage the lights come on the dash showing 4 low and 4 high and it clunks when you turn the dial to either 4 low or 4 high but does not engage.
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98 trd 4x4 locker I do not think is working!!!
(The light on the dash just flashes) could it be destroyed internally? how do i tell if the Sylenoid is working? this is my second toyota i bought it a month ago and will be spending big bucks on this unit (parts for repairs, labor not included already exceeding 2,000) on parts alone. i have tried backing up, low 4x4 and the light just flashes! could some moron have blown it up before i bought it? are they very strong? better yet, if it is broken.
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
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I have a 2004 F-150 Non Heritage. The 4WD was working fine last year and is not working now. The light on the dash comes on and I do seen to be getting vacuum at the hub but it is not engaging. Several months prior to using the 4WD I did do some front end work and must have knocked the vac line off. It was off for several months, I reinstalled it and it is still not working.
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I have 08 F150 that the 4x4 is not working on.The light on the dash comes on and I can hear the transfer case engaging.I checked to make sure that I have vacuum to the switch under the hood and that the vacuum line going down to the front diff is holding vacuum.I'm just not sure how it engages the diff.
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I have read through the folders and many websites on 4x4 problems. My problem has to deal with my four wheel drive not wanting to engage. It has nothing to do with the front end or solenoids. When I put it into 4x4, hi or low it will not send any power to my transfer case motor. It wont even illuminate any lights on the selector switch. I have checked all fuses and replaced any relays that have to do with the 4x4. Where I should go with this?
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My '05 F150 (92,000 mi) 4 wheel seems like it is engaging and disengaging when activated. Makes a clunking sound on light acceleration then quits when I back off the gas. Not sure if it is engaged then or not. I noticed this on a gravel road when I had turned 4x4 on to distribute oil around the system since I had not used it in a while. What it might be and if it is any easy fix or a trip to the shop.
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I have an 06 f150 xlt 4wd 5.4. I bought the truck about two months ago and have come to realize that my 4wd is not working. The light works and you can hear the clunk but recently we got alot of rain and i was going down a georgia clay dirt road and almost got stuck in the middle of the road. i tried 4hi and 4lo but only the rear wheels would spin. I had my wife put it in 4wd while i looked under the truck and the half shafts do turn in 4wd. which doesn't make any sense to me. I also unplugged to vacuum line from the intake and capped it off to try and let the hubs engage that way but still nothing. why would the half shafts be turning but no power to the front wheels in 4wd? does that mean the iwe's are stuck engaged? Which would explain why they turn all the time. But if they are engaged, whether they are stuck or vacuum leak or whatever the reason, shouldn't the front wheels be getting power.
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Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
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