Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 FX4 - Limited Slip Rear Differential
Jan 25, 2016
I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
View 7 RepliesI recently changed the rear diff fluid on my 1999 F250 Super Duty (180k) It was due plus I was getting some chattering when making turns from a stop. The Diff fluid had about 60k miles on it and seemed to be a little low even though I don't see any leaks. I paid to have it done last time so I can't say what kind of a job they did.
I used Motorcraft diff fluid and 8oz of friction modifier. Two weeks later and about 500 miles, today I noticed on two occasions when turning a moaning sound coming from the rear of the truck. Could this be a sign of too much friction modifier and the cluthes are slipping or is something else going on?
I am getting ready to do my both differentials and need to know if I have limited slip or not on the rear, what is the best way to tell?
View 5 RepliesI picked up a 2004 F150 a few weeks ago. It has the limited slip 3.73 rear end. During acceleration on turning, I'm feeling quite a bit of chatter out of the rear end. I've read the TSB on it, and I'm wondering how much it'll cost to get the clutchpacks replaced in the rear differential.
View 14 RepliesOk so I was going to just swap the whole rear end from drum to disk but it looked to be too much difficult;t. So the rear I have has 278,000 miles in it and its starting to make noise we were thinking about swapping the gear from the disk to the drum because the disk rear has 140,000 miles on it. Both have a limited slip. And 3.55 gears but i was thinking about getting 3.73.... So my question is can I swap in 3.73 gears into a rear end with the limited slip from one with 3.55 gears? Or do I need to buy a different limited slip?
View 7 RepliesI got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
View 6 Replies2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
I have a 2wd f150. I want to put in a limited slip diff. I have found a ford racing one that is reasonably priced but all the application guide shows is mustangs. Will it work in my truck provided the size and number of splines is correct? I also found an AAM diff...
View 4 RepliesThe X has 107K on the clock. I have a 6 quart after market aluminum diff cover installed with Royal Purple 75W-140 synthetic gear oil and no limited slip additive in the gear oil. When I make a left or right turn, I get this vibration like the limited slip clutch pack is engaging then disengaging. It is not a thump or thud but just a subtle vibration. I don't hear any noise but I just feel the vibration. It happens either going forward or backing during a turn and is more noticeable when pulling a load and turning. Going straight down the road I hear no noise and feel no vibration. I thought I would ask before I pulled the diff cover off.
View 5 RepliesHow can I tell if I have a limited slip in my '01 F250 4WD? I need to know if I need the additive for the gear oil.
View 6 RepliesAfter searching the forums about other owners with the dreaded rear shade buzzing, I am trying to located the fuse to disconnect the rear shade. I will remove the rear seat if I need to but would rather not go through the hassle.
The fuse panel is different than the posts for the 2005/2006 non-limited
The picture is attached [URL] ......
So, when the 2008 Sonata Limited (4cyl) was started yesterday, the + sign by the shifter lit up (first time ever since we had never used Sport mode). The car was indeed in Sport mode and wouldn't come out of it regardless of how you moved the shifter or to which gate, etc.
Took the car to a local well-regarded auto shop today and they said when they started it up it was not in Sport mode and worked correctly. I picked it up and sure enough, the plus sign was off and the car was in normal auto mode. On the way home, the + sign lit up again and yes, it went into Sport mode again and won't come out.
Btw, this Sonata has 68K miles and has already had two full brake jobs. It has nothing to do with this issue.
My 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
View 4 RepliesIt may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
View 7 RepliesWorking on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
View 7 RepliesMy front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
View 2 RepliesLooking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
View 6 RepliesI have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.