Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Excess Crankcase Vacuum Causing Whistling On V8 3 Valve
Feb 8, 2010
Can't find the PCV air inlet hose to the crankcase on a 5.4 3 valve V8 2006 F150. Most PCVs let air in on one bank and out the other bank on a V engine, but this engine has hoses going from BOTH banks valve covers to the intake manifold. The crankcase is under vacuum(8 inches vacuum at dipstick tube, 6 inches at each valve cover). There should be air flow in the crankcase not vacuum. No air is getting in which results in a vacuum in the crankcase.
Once the vacuum builds up enough after a few seconds when the engine is started the engine begins to whistle where air is being sucked in(can't figure out where) at a seal or gasket. If air could get in as it should there wouldn't be a vacuum in the crankcase and the engine wouldn't whistle. Where is the air inlet hose for the PCV system on the 5.4 3 valve V8? It must be clogged or blocked resulting in a vacuum. I can't find the hose and Alldata doesn't show it.
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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I have noticed a whistling noise coming from under the hood. When I inspected it I notices suction coming form a small hole on the rear drivers side of the valve cover. From the little information I could find this is a PCV valve of sorts that is molded into the valve cover itself. The local dealership quoted nearly 850.00 for parts and labor. I spent a little time calling around. A VW dealer in a local city said that there was not a valve molded into the valve cover, and most likely this whistling was being caused by a hole in a vacuum line somewhere else between the engine and the firewall. This small hole is located above the where the crank case ventilation hose meets the valve cover. Is my local dealer correct in that it is the PCV valve that is part of the valve cover? Is this a fairly straight forward repair that can be done in the garage, and are there any other aftermarket fixes besides purchasing a whole valve cover?
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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I bought a 2008 5.4l xlt about a year ago now. For the first time I took it on a trail that had a little mud. With my incredible wisdom, I decided to park the truck rather than wash it off. The next day the engine started making weird noises when I turned the steering wheel. After washing the truck it still made noises so I opened the hood. THE ENTIRE engine compartment is covered in a serious amount of mud. I feel that this has to be what started the noises when I turn. Mud dried in the wrong place? The noise sounds like a whine and its pitch matches the engine rpm until over 2500 where I don't really hear it anymore. Is there a way to flush the engine compartment?
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When I'm on the highway around 60 mph I get a whistling whining vibration sound. if I accelerate or ease off the accelerator it stops, but when I get back to around that speed it comes back. What this could be?
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I just bought a 2007 f150 4x4 5.4 triton with 69 thousand miles less than a month ago. Since then the transmission has been rebuild but come to find out a misfire will cause overdrive to act up, and it just recently started misfiring badly. It was throwing a code. 2 coils were replaced and still misfiring. It's not throwing a code anymore. No check engine light flashing or nothing.
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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I have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
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Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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I have no vacuum coming from the engine to the IWE solenoid. This is making my hubs stay locked all the time. where this line from comes from and how to fix this. Which line is the line from the engine, the one with the T in it or the other one?
5.4L V8 2004 New Style
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4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
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I was under the car yesterday changing my front brakes, when I noticed excess grease on the frame and A-arms. So now my question is, how much is this going to cost me at the dealership for the front axles both sides? I'm in the process of moving my family to the East, otherwise I'd do it myself.
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My mother, who is retired, has a Subaru Forester, probably a 2001 or thereabouts. It runs great, but recently whenever you let off the brakes, there is a high-pitched whistling sound that comes out of the dashboard on the driver's side. My mother claims that she took this to a mechanic and they told her that there is a small vacuum leak in the power brake line. They also told her that the leak was small and that there was no hurry to fix it (that was in April). Now it is August and my mother is still putting off fixing it because of the cost. They will have to pull out the engine and the dashboard to get to the leak. In the meantime, she continues to drive the car saying that the worst that will happen if it fails is that the power brakes won't work, but she'll still have her regular disk brakes, she'll just have to mash down her foot a little harder. Is this safe?
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I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
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I have a 2004 FX4 4x4 ... Four wheel drive is not working!!!!! Turn the dash switch to 4High or 4Low and the lights come on in my dash gauge cluster. So my 4x4 lights come on as if the 4x4 is working but my front wheels do not turn. What I have done:
Drove the truck forward while I watched the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. Did this in 2WD and then in 4WD high. While driving forward in 2WD the front drive shaft did not move. Once put into 4WD high and driven forward the front drive shaft was turning. I guess this tells me that my transfer case and shift motor are working?
I jacked up my driver side front wheel and turned the tire by hand while the truck was running in 2WD. The tire spun freely and the CV axle (half shaft) did not turn. Then turned 4x4 dash switch to 4WD high and turned the tire again by hand and the CV axle turned while turning the tire. I guess this indicates that the IWE actuator was working....I guess???
Repeated the process above for the front passenger side of the truck and the tire would always spin freely regardless if in 2WD or 4WD. I could not get the CV axle to turn while spinning the tire on the passenger side when the truck was running and switched to 4WD
I checked the vacuum solenoid near the battery mounted on the firewall. The vacuum line supplying vacuum to solenoid was working and pulling vacuum. I did a series of test in conjunction with the dashboard 4x4 selector and the Vacuum Solenoid seemed to be working properly.
Crawled under the truck while the engine was running and pulled the vacuum line off the nipples of each IWE Actuators (drive and passenger side) put my finger over the lines and felt decent vacuum at each end of each vacuum line.
So dash switch and 4x4 light works stays on solid and bright does not flicker
Vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines seem to be working
Transfer case and shift motor seem to be working
Driver side IWE actuator seems to work
Front passenger side Actuator does not seem to be working??? Why I am so confused about this is because in HOURS of Internet research it seems that this Actuator is not allowed to engage by vacuum pressure. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator I expected to hub to lock, but it did not, the tire would turn but the CV axle wouldn't? If I replace the passenger side IWE actuator will this fix my four wheel drive? Or is there something else I am missing??
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What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
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I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
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My transfer case will only pull vacuum to the hubs when floor shifter is in between 4 low and 4 high. as soon as the dash light comes on for low or high it looses vacuum. Is there a switch that tells it to pull vacuum? Any good breakdown of the transfer case?
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