Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Driver Door Stopped Locking / Unlocking
May 3, 2016
My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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The fob of my 2006 prius stopped unlocking the driver's door, it does unlock, however, all other doors. Also when locking the car all doors lock no problem, so the weird thing is the "unlocking of the driver door" that doesn't work unless I use the little key inside the fob. I already changed the battery in the fob and it is still doing the same thing.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
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My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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My F started to do this a couple of months ago. It will not unlock the driver side door with either from the handle (while key in your pockets) or with the key fob (when pressing the button). If i go to the passenger side and place my hand on the handle it will unlock the doors except the driver. Is there any remedy to this? Does it have to do with the Actuator?
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I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150 with about 43,000 miles .. love it. However, my driver side window stopped working today. For about the past month when you would power up, it would delay and then go up. This happened every so often. Going down was never a problem. Some times window would go up, then drop down an inch or so. Now this morning I went to the store and the window won't go up and it is down all the way. I do not hear grinding, only clicking. All other windows work fine.
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
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I can't figure out how to open the door panel driver side.
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I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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When I get near the driver's door on my 2008 Prius in attempt to unlock the door, nothing happens. However, when I get near the passenger door or the rear hatch, they will both open but the car chirps 5 times. The driver's door remains locked. It's not the battery in the key FOB, because if it was, no doors would open unless I remove the key from the FOB and physically open the door the "traditional" way.
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