Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 5.4L - Oil Drain Plug Torque Spec?
Jan 23, 2012
Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
View 3 RepliesGonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
View 3 RepliesWhat is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
View 3 RepliesWhat are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
View 3 RepliesNew 2014 SE 2.5L owner here. Gonna Amsoil my rig when it hits 5K. I bought a filter wrench and drain plug gaskets online. What's the torque spec. on the filter housing and drain plug?
View 7 RepliesWhere is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
View 1 RepliesThe transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
I wanted to know what happens when the injector hold down bolts are not torqued down to spec, what problems would arise and could it be a reason for somewhat hard starting?
View 1 Replies'06 4x4 SCREW 67k miles -> I removed my passenger front floor mat last night to discover the carpet was wet. So, I assume it is coming from a stopped up A/C condensate drain. Have not searched for it yet, but where the drain line is routed? I was figuring on trying to blow it out with some compressed air.
View 14 Replies2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
any generic fits for replacement trans drain plug - 2008 f-350 V-10?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
View 1 RepliesI am trying to change my 2006 azera's transmisson fluid.
I tried to find the location of transmission fluid drain plug bolt, but i can't find either in the service manual nor owner's manual.
Looking for a photo to show the transmission fluid drain plug bolt?
2004 Jetta 1.8T
Looking for the drain plug and I can't find it for the life of me..
There is a hex bolt on a black plate that is seemingly the lowest part of the whole front-underneath, but this isn't the oil, is it? It does have a washer, that hex bolt.
It's in front of the axle, right?
Which direction does it face?
Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
View 19 RepliesJust doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
View 2 RepliesI am finally getting around to changing the trans fluid on my 05 f150 5.4 4wd xlt auto, what is the torque value for the trans pan bolts.
View 1 RepliesI highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....