Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - 4WD Not Activating / Functioning
Jan 27, 2012
Trying to decipher the problem with my 4WD not functioning. 2006 F150 S-Crew. Dash lights all light up when starting so those are functional however they do not light up when switch is activated. Checked the hub locking solenoid and have 12 vdc what seems constant to it with switch in any position. Removed vac tubes off solenoid and connected together and had vacuum at one wheel line. Did not check the other wheel. Checked fuses and all checked well. I will say I did not check every fuse marked 4x4 in the manual. May need another go at that. Replaced hub locking solenoid. Still not functional. Do not hear the solenoid coil picking up or any lights illuminating.
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Passenger window won't function from the drivers door switch. Installed a new drivers door switch and it still doesn't work. The passenger window works fine from the passenger door switch.
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We have a 2008 Azera Ltd. with 108,000 miles. Until recently rear sunshade worked perfectly as we used in in auto mode retracting in reverse and going up in forward. No noise during any phase of operation. Not sure when but recently sunshade quit functioning. have tried console button without success but also hear no noise indicating a broken gear as others have reported. Have checked fuse on drivers side fuse panel and it is not blown. From this I can only assume problem is either motor has completely failed or switch is bad. I have laid in the trunk to see if i can access system but covers are all riveted so i thought I'd pull the switch and test it but not sure how to remove it without damaging console
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Yesterday I was driving my truck and went to activate the cruise so I pressed the button to turn it on and hit set but nothing happened. The on light was lit but the cruise indicator didn't light up in the speedo. I got to where I was headed, shut the truck off and on my way home tried this again to have the the cruise work normally. Cruise acting up and not work on occasion? I've never had the cruise control act up before so is there something I can check out? Bad connection or something?
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My left blinker on my GX stopped working about 2 months ago. I had the tires and brakes done yesterday at Firestone. I asked them to replace the bulb for me as the blinker did not work and makes the "fast click" sound when activating it.
I was told that it is not the bulb and Firestone can't do anything about this. They believe something is loose or maybe an electrical problem?
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My 2004 6.0 used to beep and flash the lights when I lock and unlock with the remote key fob, but has stopped doing it for some reason. Need the sequence required to re-program that feature.
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The trunk is not functioning in my 2007 GS 350. The button in the cockpit is not opening it. The key fob will not open it, however, I do hear the beep when I hold down the release button. The latch under the trunk wont pop it open either.
THE ONLY WAY to open it is if I manually use the key. Meaning I have to pop the key out of the key fob and stick it in the hole and turn it. Its kind of embarrassing having to do this in such a nice luxurious car.
- I made sure that the button in the glove box is not the problem
- I checked the fuse beneath the driver side cockpit and it is good.
- I tried unplugging the battery/ resetting the computer.
Still no luck.
What part I will have to replace?
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My keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
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I have a 2010 Accent GLS with 96,000 miles. Up to now I have only needed to do regular maintenance (which I do myself usually ) and had no major issues other than the sway bar drop link problem which I found the solution to on this forum. And self destructing spark plugs (on 3 separate occasions).
The other day while driving, the car surged once like it was running out of fuel. Then the tachometer stopped functioning. And if I floored the accelerator to cause a downshift I would lose power and the car would surge until I let up on the accelerator and the car would up shift. The CEL came on and I had the code read. It was P0339. So I replace the crankshaft sensor and everything went back to normal and the CEL went off. Until 2 days later...
Today the CEL came back on. I had no issues while driving as far as I could tell. I had the code read again and it came up as P0336, P0300, P0302, and P0303. The odd thing is I have no starting or running issues. So I'm really not sure what is going on here.
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The cruise control isn't activating on my 2000 X. The light will come on, on the dash but it never sets. Are there any common issues with this system and is there anything specific I can check?
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I have recently bought a new truck this month and everything was nice and dandy till i noticed an annoying jerking at 45-50 mph. The check engine light didn't come on till recently when it got really bad and would barely start. I hooked a code reader up to it and it said cylinder 6&8 misfire. So I had the coils replaced on those two cylinders and it seemed to start and idle better.
So I took it on the interstate to see if the jerking was gone as well. and it still jerks at 45-50 just like before. I was going to take it to the dealership to have them figure out what the issue is but that's 100 bones just to figure out what the problem is. My mechanic doesn't want to mess with the spark plugs because he knows they always break.
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I have a 2006 Ford 150 FWD XLT. So here is the problem. I sustained right front damage in an accident and 4WD worked prior to and after the accident (before going to the shop). Before the accident it would easily lock into 4WD but would sometimes have trouble getting out of it. When I received the truck back from the shop and went to use 4WD a week later nothing happened No lights no nothing. I tried it in neutral, drive and reverse. I took it back and they said it was the shift motor and not related to the accident so they couldn't fix it. So I just bolted a new one on and still nothing. I checked the solenoid and it appears to be working. I also checked the fuses and still nothing. The shop did replace the right front hub assembly.
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Recently I noticed a "thunking" noise when I accelerated from a stop and a vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. For what it is worth, I baby this vehicle. I took it to the shop and had three U-joints replaced, the next day I noticed a severe vibration was still there. I returned to the shop where they kept it for two days and cannot figure out what is causing the problem.
They re-balanced the tires, checked the alignment, brakes, calipers, rotors and even had the drive shaft re-balanced (which they said was out by 30,000) and took it to a local transmission shop who said the problem is not in the transmission but it is still occurring. They finally admitted defeat and suggested I take it to the dealer. It has 149+ thousand miles on it and a 5.4 engine.
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My rear driver-side door's lock just stopped functioning. It is in the locked position and I can't put it in the unlocked position using the key or manually (and I've tried using a LOT of force). The door itself is actually not locked. When I lock and unlock the doors, all the other doors work fine, and the broken one tries to lock and unlock, but it is stuck hard in it's position. But, the door stays unlocked under all circumstances.
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just picked up a high mile f-150. (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. It worked. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat) , where is it controlled from? Seems to ride a little rougher than i expected. new tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. it seems to ride just about as good.
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I have a 2006 4.6L that's hard to start when it's relatively cold outside.
Normally, when it's warm outside, I can barely bump the starter, and it starts right up. But when it's cold outside, it usually takes 3 or 4 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. Even then, it has a really rough "about to die" idle, until about 10-15 seconds, and then it idles without a problem. Once it's running, it runs great.
It has 79k miles on it, and all I've done to it is put in a throttle body spacer, and a K&N filter. I've read a few posts from people that have had similar issues, that had K&N filters, but their problems have been more consistent. Mine only seems to happen when it's first started.
As far as I know, the plugs have never been changed, as with the COPs. I've heard about a vacuum line running to the throttle body may be the culprit, but haven't been able to find any more details on that, like where the line runs to, possible replacement part number for it, etc.
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I have a 2006 F-150 Supercab King Ranch 4wd. The 4wd is not working. Took it to the dealer and they tell me the 4wd module is not communicating with the PCM. It is my understanding that this problem is rare...like 1 in a million. Ford wants to replace the entire PCM. In the past, I have had electrical problems with this vehicle due to corroded wires.
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I have a 2006 f150 I just bought after my F250 was stolen. It has about 70k miles. It has been running pretty rough ever since I got it. It finally threw codes so I tried to address all the issues. Changed out a couple coils and all the plugs (motorcraft platinum). The camshaft sensor was also bad. Truck runs much better but still has an idle issue I cant seem to nail down.
I assume its something to do with air intake. It doesnt happen all the time. It runs rough and knocks and sometimes dies. If I give it gas it stops. I read it could be the idle air intake valve, but then I read that this model doesnt have one. I also read that air intake issues dont normally throw codes. Are there any common problems I could look for? Would cleaning the throttle body do any good?
I know the basics, but this kind of thing is tough for me to troubleshoot. You may have already seen me post this problem, but I didnt get much response so I thought I'd try one last time.
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I have a 2006 F150 4.6 175,000 miles in pretty good shape and well maintained. Lately, the A/C has acted weird. When I first turn it on, it blows air, but the air does not chill until I have a pretty good RPM going. Then it's fine. Once it starts chilling, it's good to go even when RPM is low (like at a red light). It's just the initial acceleration.
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I have an 06' F-150. Last monday went to start and wouldnt crank over. I have since replaced FPDM, a weak fuel pump, checked Fuel Inertia Switch and now that they are all replaced when I check codes it says "no data available". Pump will not come on. Fuses have been checked. I have traced this problem to everything I can think of. If my ECM is fried, why would it have worked fine before replacing FPDM? I am at a dead end. Mechanic is at a dead end.
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I have an 06 4x4 lariat 4dr. 5.4L.... bought it used about 6 months ago with 107 K on it, and put a few thousand miles on it. haven't really had any problems with it, but I have noticed that when I break about 45 mph, my steering wheel gets shaky, I've tried reading on some forums but haven't really found anything very useful, and I alot of the information is on the '04 models. And honestly I"m just not really sure what to make of it all, and I don't wanna start replacing random stuff just taking a guess. I live in south texas at the moment and the air here it's salty, so I'm hoping that something just corroded and is warn...My guess is a front bearing.
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