Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 XLT Shaking Under Light Acceleration
Jan 7, 2016
I have a 2005 F150 XLT with a 5.4 (198,000miles) RWD. A few months back it developed a miss due to bad COP's, typical shuddering around 50-60 MPH.
I pulled off the COPs and while I was in there I pulled my old plugs as well. New Motorcraft SP515 plugs went in with a little nickle anti-seize being careful not to get any near the end of the plug and I put a set of Granatelli COPs on with a little di-electric grease on the inside of the boot. The miss went away and the truck drove like a champ.
I will also note that I replaced the front wheel hub/rotors, front calipers and new pads. I resurfaced the rear rotors, new pads and new E-brake shoes also.
The issue I am having is under light acceleration, or "normal" driving conditions the vehicle has a mild shake which eventually smooths out.
My first assumption was that I did not torque my front wheel hubs correctly or that I messed something up so I took the truck to my local front end/alignment shop for a full inspection and they said everything is great. They also said that they didn't really feel the vibrations that I mentioned. I am used to this truck driving very smooth up until the misfire situation so to me it is quit noticeable. After the front end shop I went to Discount tire cause they mentioned that my rear wheels are bouncing pretty good and that may be what I am noticing. Turns out the tires were out of balance which Discount took care of and rotated my tires while I was there.
The vibration is STILL THERE! No CELs to reference, just an obnoxious vibration. I tried to isolate the issue by accelerating in 1,2, and in D. The issue occurs regardless of the gear I start off in.
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I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
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I was driving my f150 going down the highway. Cruise set at 110kmh. All of a sudden truck started shaking And sounded horrible. Shut off the cruise. Floored it.it misses fired like no tomorrow and no power, looked down check engine light was flashing. Then all of a sudden everything normal. Now its intermediate and light solid on. So I thought I will just I will hook up the code reader. And NOTHING it didn't turn On. No beep nothing. Tried 2 readers no connection. Trucks a 2005 ford f150 fx4 5.4 217600km on the clock
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It seems like I am going thru brakes I just replaced my brakes in May and my Rotors in July and when I brake my truck shakes like crazy. Is it the brakes again or am I missing something.
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My F150 has 100,000 miles on it and hesitates and bucks on acceleration. Auto zone pulled a code which I can't remember what it was but did say it was the throttle body actuator was stuck open. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner put it back on. No change.
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Just bought a 2005 4.6Lused. There is a "air escaping" kind of noise during acceleration. It sounds just like the AC system does sometimes after you turn off an engine. I thought originally that it by be AC related, but doesn't appear to be. At steady speed, it goes away, but comes on again with the slightest bit more gas pedal. In cruise control, it cycles on and off when the cruise accelerates up a hill,, etc. The sound is on the driver's side apparently close to dash corner.
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I have a 2005 FX4 with a 5.4L. I have noticed in the past 3 months that when I mash the go pedal hard the engine misses and there is a popping sound. My gas mileage has gone down 2-3 MPG.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
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I have an 04 f150 with the 5.4 and recently, within the past few months, I've noticed some "jerking" especially when accelerating. At first, I thought it was the transmission, but the jerking does not coincide with the shift patterns. It jerks and stutters around 45-50 mph and 1500 rpms especially under light acceleration. Not sure if one is connected to the other, but also have no real power, I'm barely moving under heavy acceleration. ...What could I be looking at? I am thinking it has several options, I just need to know which one to explore first...cheap, meaning fuel pump/filter?? MAF?? Or Engine Coils?
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My son in law's 2004 F150 had been having a random hesitation and dieing on light acceleration. Now it is every time he drives it.Here is the scenario. After taking off from a stop, with light acceleration, when speed reaches 22 mph in drive, it is like you turn the key off,,,except all the gauges still work,radio air all electrical seems to stay on,BUT the indication lights on the dash and the small red anti theft dash light for the security function comes on. If you try to continue accelerating, the truck will die, but if you let off on the gas and then continue to accelerate all is well.
I tried starting off in 2nd thinking it is a transmission problem same scenario except truck did get up to 29mph before experiencing the dieing issue. Tried starting off with Overdrive disengaged, same problem. The truck is throwing no DTC codes and Ford says unless it throws a code, they can't work on it. Truck runs great at highway speeds . My son in law says that if the truck does die,(by trying to force acceleration) he has to stop, and put the truck in neutral or park, and then it will restart. I have checked all connections at the transmission, rear end and all sensors/controls, but no solution. We are getting desperate and don' t know what else to check. It has the 5.4 engine.
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06 with 5.4 and AT. It shudders in overdrive during light to no acceleration. I was told it was the converter. I was also told by a technician in a trans shop that the Trans-X additive for hypoid oil in a posi-trac was ok to use even though the back of the tube says "Not safe for automatic transmissions". Do this is accurate or if the guy was just blowing smoke?
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My mechanic said one cylinder isnt working though we havent done any checking beyond wires. It's not worth putting money into but I cannot afford to get anything else. Will driving on just the 5 cylinders create increased damage or other issues that will get me stranded? it starts right up, is rough but levels out after a couple minutes It is smooth driving under 40mph, but acceleration above that creates shaking and check engine light flashing, no ominous ticking noises but can tell not firing on all cylinders. Problem is I will have to drive it highway speeds at some point-tried it before and made it-was able to eventually baby it up to the required traffic mph with the shaking diminishing and smoothing out but rattling started up again every time I had to hit the accelerator to increase the speed. What can I expect by continuing to drive it?
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About 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
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So a week ago, I had a good load of sod in my 05 F150 4WD. After a few miles, the ABS light came on and has stayed on. Will this go back off by itself after a time, or is this a get it fixed deal? Tried unhooking the battery, but no luck.
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My dad is looking at a 2005 F150 2wd with the 4.6L V8 that a friend of his has. Its a 2wd XL, but has the cloth seats, the interior and body are excellent conditions. Its high mileage however, (210K), but the engine sounds good, but it has a miss and the check engine light is on. He took it about 6 months ago and had the oil changed, new belts and spark plugs, drove it very little and its been setting for sale for about 3 months.
When dad started it this evening, the engine was missing and the CEL light is on. His friend suggested he drive the truck for as long as he likes, (which he did today and he does like it) but I advised my dad to take it to a mechanic and have it checked out first, maybe even the dealer to have it checked out to be safe.... which he did today. He took it to a local Ford dealer today to get them to check it out they stated that it was a coil pack that is bad on the #2 cylinder.
They (dealer) also told him a bunch of other things that was "wrong" with it, but I think a lot of it was lies just to get him to get it fixed there and make money off of him. They said it needed an intake gasket (said it was leaking a little bit), they also said, battery and cables need to be cleaned, tranny service, coolant flush, etc, etc, etc.
Once outside the guy (tech) was bringing the truck out and my dad asked him the about that intake gasket and he acted like as if the dealer makes them act like things are a big deal, or saying they may not always need what they say. He told dad alot of those 4.6L's did that and it was really nothing to be concerned about, but I don't know.
I have a 95 Town Car with the 4.6L and am familiar with these cars, but I guess the 4.6L in these F150s are different beasts. I do know the plastic intakes on the 96+ models were issues.
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The park brake light stays on brake fluid level is good park brake is not on park brake switch is ok will sometimes go out but always comes back on .My son and one of my buddys also have a 2005 and have the same problem....
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I have a 2005 f-150 with the 5.4 engine. Bought it new and now it has 107,000 miles on it. Recently,it would have a shudder at 65 or 75 mph then the passing gear would kick on and it worked perfectly. The warning check engine light came on,then,when it acted up it would flash intermittently. Took it in to the dealership and put it on the diagnosis machine. Said cylinders 2,3, and seven were not steady etc?? So,after he took it out and drove it he said those particular cylinder walls were scored. I put in a K-N air filter at about 50,000 miles,and he said that they do not seal properly and dust got by the filter into the intake and got into the engine and did this damage. One think he found was a bad coil on one cylinder and replaced it. And just as he said,when I got on the road home I romped on it and it cut out and the intermittent signal showed again! He said that that would happen and it did.
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2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
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I just installed a set of HID conversion kit on my 2005 F-150 STX. It is only one beam bulb so therefor I have no high beams. Also, to remind you I have fog lights on the truck. My question is, when I turn my head lights on, and pull the switch to turn on the fog lights, a "blue light" indicator lights up on the dash. It is the high beam indicator and why that is lit. As far as I remember, that light never came on before the install. You have to excuse me since this is my first truck ever and I just got it back after having it repaired at the body shop the last two months. So technically, I only had the truck for 2 months....Just curious whether the blue light is suppose to be on when the fogs are on the dash.
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I have a 2005 F-150 and the tail lights and turn signals stopped working. Only the park light seems to work and it very dim. I replaced the bulbs and that did not fix the problem, so I checked with a volt meter and I'm only getting 6 volts to the socket. Fuses appear to be good.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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