Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 XLT - P0453 Code / Locating The Sensor
Mar 31, 2017
I just acquired a wonderful 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6 liter truck. I need to get it passable for smog check here in AZ and the failed test revealed a P0453 error code (EVAP) which translates to a possible pressure sensor malfunction.
My question is finding the sensor and if I am looking at dropping the fuel tank to service/replace the sensor. Also, could a vacuum line be the cause?
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My 2007 F150 5.4L would not crank at all the other morning. After checking the battery, I discovered that the ground wire to the starter was completely frayed and broken off right at the eyelet connector to the starter. I spliced it back together and the truck fired right up.
However, the check engine light suddenly appeared and I got a P0453 code which apparently indicates a high reading at the fuel pressure sensor. The CEL never appeared until the broken wire happened. I took a quick look at the fuel pressure sensor and wiring and nothing appears to be obviously broken.
One other thing I've noticed for a few weeks is a miss under load while driving. I have not seen any codes at all for the miss. I was leaning toward replacing the coil overs but now I'm wondering if the miss is related to the fuel pressure sensor.
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I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
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Problem: Initially thought replacing the rear wheel speed sensor on top of the differential would make the light go away on a 2007 F-150 XLT. What I've done already.
-Replaced the sensor
-Used the IDS ford computer to clear the code
-Test drove it for 30 minutes and the light is still on
-Reset any codes by disconnecting the battery
-I have gone as far as swapping a different ABS module thinking it was the problem, after it was re-programmed the module checked out and it wasn't at fault.
It must be a wire, all the fuses for the ABS system are fine.
Issue or traced all the wires and found a common problem such as a pinched wire or melted wire between the module and the sensor? From what I have been researching this code B1230 .
-bad sensor
-sensor grounding out somewhere
Attempted a multi-meter test today and didn't get very far.
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I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
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My wife's 06 expedition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet. I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap...
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I have a 2007 f150 sport. I am getting a 24 code on the airbag light and I do know that is Sensor output feed/return circuit open. What I do not know is where is this sensor located and what could it mean if I am getting the code...
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Unable to decode the B6 axle code on my f150,5.4 L,FX4 2005. Clearly located on the drives side door is the label 'axle' directly below that is B6 ! Unable to locate a listing for this code any where?
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I have a 2005 ford f-150 5.4 l that the cel light came on. when it first started it did not give me a code but said I had a small emmisions leak. In a day or two it finally gave me a code (p0446). I pulled out the evap control purge solenoid to ensure that it was not plugged. I checked the voltage @ the plug/ with the key on it is giving 14 volts. when i plugged the valve in it would not shift. I took the valve out and jumpered it directly to the battery and it seems to work fine but when I plug it into the harness it does not work, I Cleaned all connections I could going back to the pcm and doublechecked voltage @ the plug and still have 14 volts but will not fire the solenoid. the coil omhs out @ 63omhs. I am going to try a new valve....
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I have a 2005 F150 Fx4 5.4 that keeps throwing a p0172 code. I've replaced all spark plugs, C.O.P's, fuel injectors, Mass airflow sensor, 1 o2 sensor, checked all vac lines and there ok.
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I have a 2005 f150 5.4 3 valve with the p0012 code the truck runs good has a rough idle not sure if it is worth changing the vct or not the truck has 190000 miles....
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"VSC OFF" light came on the other day. I took my RX350 to the dealer. The dealer said Heater Element sensor is bad. They didnot have this part in stock. I googled this part. Nothing comes up under that search. I took it to Autozone and the code came up as Mass Air flow sensor. Are both of these same thing?
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2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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2005 Ford Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L, OHV, 90K miles. CEL came on and code read was P2272 with info "O2 Bank2 sensor2 signal stuck lean". Should I assume that I need to replace one of the O2 sensors and if so, which one ?? Not sure, but I think this car has four O2 sensors ??
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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I have a code reader got P1193 - MAF sensor low voltage
Is it shot or just need cleaning? Or is it something totally different
2005 Santa fe 3.5l
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