I have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
View 7 RepliesI'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
View 9 RepliesWe've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
View 14 RepliesAny hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
I am replacing the driver side up front control arm as the ball joint has gone bad. Got a febi/bilstein arm and all the necessary bolts from ecs. Lifted up the car, front pinch bolt is seized of course so it is currently soaking in pbblaster. The nut came off fine, which I've read doesn't always happen.
On to my question, I loosened up the rear bolt on the control arm, but it has no room to come out? Ive been searching through old threads both on here and passat world for a diy. I found the one on audi world that many people link to. And it seems to skip over this little part.
As of now the only option I can think of is to cut the head off the bolt, and push force the rest of the bolt out. But then to reinstall the bolt would have to go in on the other side? I have a picture to hopefully better illustrate what I am talking about.
2004 f150 - Airbag light was flashing. Received recall letter. Dealer replaced a wiring harness. Dealer did not confirm functionality of airbag prior to leaving shop. Light continues to flash. New diagnostics from dealer says error code 1885 - the control restraint module needs replacing in P&L. Does the code match the fix? Can a novice mechanic replace the module?
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to figure out how / if cruise control can be added to a 2005 F150 with the 4.2L V6. I bought an aftermarket kit, popped the hood, and then learned all about electronic throttles . What (aside from adding the cruise control switches) do you have to do?
View 14 RepliesI am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
Over the last couple months when I started driving, I noticed that the cruise control wasn't working at all. The next time I would start it was working again. It "stopped" working a few times.
The last time it stopped working was about a week ago, and hasn't worked since. I have read about horn relay fuses, tail light fuses, some sort of module on the engine. Where should I start?
2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
My 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 5.4l V8. the climate control system will not let me lower the fan speed or let me change the airflow direction. and my heated seats will not work as well.. i looked at the fuse it was good.. and un-plugged the battery for 3 minutes.
View 2 RepliesMy dad has a 2005 Ford F150 and his airbag light buzzes and flashes. We counted and it flashes 5 times then short pause then 1 flash then long pause and restarts. Also I dont know if it is related but his cruise control doesnt work either.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
View 3 RepliesI am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
View 5 RepliesWe operate a garage, did an oil change on a 2007 F150 with a 5.4L, with 70,000 km. A few days later, began to make noise. Owner took it to the dealer, the dealer told him it needed an upper engine rebuild. A technician at the dealership said the oil filter came apart and caused the engine damage. Scored cam guides and cam shaft damage. Installed OEM recommended, Pennzoil 5w20, and Pennzoil PZ42, Purolator manufactured. No loss of oil, proper quantity of oil installed. Sent the filter to Purolator for testing, came back 100% within specifications, no missing parts, gaskets present intact. What would cause this damage?
View 11 RepliesOk,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
My ex-wife has a 2008 Prius. When trying to get heat, either using Auto A/C or manual, the display panel shows that only the floor vents are open. However, forced air is flowing from the upper vents on the dash. The air from these vents is not warmed. It seems to be unheated outside air. It's unclear whether this is a new problem, since the owner doesn't know if this behavior has been there since she bought the car. She does report that the car has always taken a long time to get comfortable in winter.
View 7 RepliesI got a Ford f150 and getting the error code P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control. My truck has burnt up 3 of these things already in the last 8 months. Why my truck keeps killing them?
View 2 Replies2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I am going to replace the upper control arms this weekend. I noticed that there are regular bolts with no cam washer installed. I have read conflicting info on whether the cam washer set up is needed. Do I have to install these or can I just put the old bolts back in just like they are. When I replaced the uppers on my 1997 T-Bird I put in new bolts but there was no mention of a cam washer setup for it anywhere that I saw. What would be the problems if I just reinstalled the old bolts. Right now the truck drives straight as an arrow but the lower ball joint on the driver side is shot so I will be replacing it also.
View 2 RepliesI have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
View 4 Replies