I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Subaru Outback. I will be driving and lose all power to the car and it dies. I will try to restart the car and all the battery power will be on (lights, radio, power windows, etc.) however there is no sound when trying to crank the key. If I wait a little while or push the car, it will start back up with the check engine light on and cruise light blinking. I can drive it a block or so with decreased acceleration and it will die again. Brought it to my local shop and they could not recreate the issue (sat overnight). They cleaned the battery terminals and cleaned the throttle body. I drove it for about 3 weeks with no issues and the same exact thing happened again.
The shop told me the codes they got from the check engine were all communication codes (??). The only thing know about the two days the car broke down 3 weeks apart is I filled up the tank with gas on those days (but that doesnt seem like it would matter).
After sitting for an hour waiting for the tow truck. The car started up and he was able to drive it off the truck with no issue. I am totally lost here.
My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
View 1 RepliesMy transfer case will only pull vacuum to the hubs when floor shifter is in between 4 low and 4 high. as soon as the dash light comes on for low or high it looses vacuum. Is there a switch that tells it to pull vacuum? Any good breakdown of the transfer case?
View 6 Replies2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
View 1 Replies2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
View 1 RepliesWe have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
Here's a little about the car before I start about the problem because my car is very custom. It is a 84 pontiac trans am with 305 H.O. code G engine V8. It was completely redone about three years ago and runs great. We did delete most of the computer control stuff and emissions. We now have a vacuum controlled distributor instead of the original computer controlled one. There is no engine light to check now and here's why. We have converted the car into K.I.T.T. from Knight Rider, so the entire gauges on the dash have been turned into digital gauges including the speedometer.
The new gauges run off of the same power that the old ones did. But we have added a separate switch to turn just the dash on for car shows so we don't have to turn the key on. it goes to the fuse for the computer/ gauges and a few other little things. We also have two lcd screens installed and a computer.
Now for my problem. The car still runs great no issues with how it runs or sounds engine wise. It doesn't matter if it is cold,hot, wet, or dry. I can go down the road and all of the sudden all the power to the dash will flicker off and on. I usually lose my speedometer then and don't know how fast I'm going. It will not power up fully unless the car is started normal. The car has to have the gas pumped a few times before starting normal. No biggie. Now, the entire dash will flicker and sometimes when it goes out in the middle of driving, the car just dies. About a week ago everything lost power. No headlights, flashers, interior lights or power to start the car. After a few minutes, one by one the things starting to work.
Interior lights first, then headlights and five minutes later the dash lights come back and the ignition has power again.Went to town the other day and drove for an hour and no issues at all. Today, the lights flashed on the dash, get home, shut the car, turn it back on and fine. Waited a while and had the door open. Shut the car off and it lost power to the ignition. Interior lights were on but no power when you turned the key. The radio would flicker on/off real quick, but no power to the dash or to start the car. Turn the key to acc mode and the radio works but again no power in the on position to start the car or turn on the dash.Now, we can turn on the extra switch to power the dash and it will come on but not when I turn the key.About ten minutes later of just sitting and the car was back to normal. Turn the key and power was back and started right up.
Here's what I've done. Battery and alternator checked out fine, checked all ground cables to firewall, starter, etc, looked for lose wires or melted wires, took distributor cap off and check that area, clean battery cables wires, looked for any corroded or dirty wires, made sure all wires were tight. I even went under the dash and put in a new ignition switch ( I don't ever want to do that again. That was a pain in the neck and I really mean in the neck) Still the same issue. It seems like something is getting hot and causing power to be shut off to the ignition and keeping power from getting to the ignition/dash until it cools off. I hate these kind of issues because it is so hard to track down.
My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
I was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
View 14 RepliesStrange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
Okay so I ran my excursion earlier this morning and it ran fine and what have you, and now 6 hours later I got to start it up and it sputters and dies. I start it again and it starts right up but then goes to sputter again and I hit the gas and it didn't respond, the RPM gauge was lingering just under 500 RPMs. I had to hold the gas pedal for about 15-20 seconds before the engine would rev up, it kept doing this till the engine finally warmed up and I drove it up and down my block with barely and throttle and with wide open throttle and it ran fine. With the engine warmed up it started with no problems. I have a 2000 5.4L V8 gas
View 5 RepliesI got my truck to throw some codes. As many of you know I have been having an issue where when I stomp my truck to the floor it sputters and hesitates. Some days its worse then others. It only happens under a load, and it generally doesn't last to long, however today it did it a whole bunch and lasted for a good bit any time I got on it hard. My engine light begin to flash, and there was a smell of exhaust. I went to Autozone quickly as possible. The guy read the code, and this time no lean codes, just a "P0430" which the code reader said was O2 Sensor Bank 2. It also had a pending code, which was "multiple cylinder misfire detected". So my question is can an O2 sensor cause this? Could my CAT on that side be bad?
If that is all it is, is a bad cat or O2 sensor then I will be very happy... Like I said I can sit in my driveway in park all day long, and rev outta my truck. It will never misfire or hesitate at all. Soon is I put it in gear and am going down the road and punch it sometimes it pop and sputter.
Another cool thing is some how their code reader was able to read my ABS light, and I found out that this whole time I have had a bad ABS Speed Sensor in the rear end. That is a plus as well.
I've recently replaced the timing chains on my sons 04 F-150 5.4. Now I'm getting a code PO174. I've changed 2 coil packs, fuel filter, MAF sensor and cleaned all the connections. Fuel filter had what looked like brown fuel coming out of the in line of the filter. I'm stressed out now, the truck does not even have enough power to drive up the driveway. Backfires, spits and sputters, has rough idle.
View 4 RepliesI have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
View 3 RepliesSo the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 VW Golf GL, automatic tranny, 2.0L 4-cyl that has some issues during long drives in hot weather. The 1st incident occurred when I was driving on the interstate in AZ w/the outside air temp around 100 degrees. It was a flat, desolate stretch of road and I had cruise control engaged as well as the A/C turned on. Suddenly it was as if someone had let off the gas pedal, as the car began quickly slowing down from 70 or 75 to maybe 40 or so. I turned off the cruise control & tried to increase back up to highway speed manually, but there was a long lag time before the engine kicked up again. I got it back up to full speed, then moments later it would kick down again unexpectedly as if I had taken my foot off the gas even though I hadn't (and I was still not climbing any hills). The temp gauge was still normal, but I turned off the A/C just in case this was making an unnecessary drain on the engine. Still the car would behave in the same way. I took the next exit, let it rest a bit, then limped along @ a slow speed on the frontage road until the next town. Suspecting it was the MAF sensor, I had it cleaned @ a repair shop before heading back home. It ran normal for a little while during the drive back, but then the same issue.
Back in town, I replaced the whole MAF sensor, since I was told just cleaning it was a temp fix. By this time the outside air temp was cooler, & short drives to/from work went fine. However, the next time I tried taking the car on a long hot drive (from SoCal into NV), the same issue happened again! So maybe it wasn't the MAF sensor afterall (unless the replacement was faulty?). Nevertheless, I took a wet washcloth & wrapped it around the sensor, & this seemed to do the trick to get me back home again. For now I am no longer going to risk taking this car on long hot trips until I can figure out what's wrong w/it & how to fix it. I do plan to take it to a mechanic but wanted to see first if this rings any bells for people on this forum.....??
2nd, (possibly related?) problem:
Today as I was coming home, the engine stalled when I tried to take off when the light turned green @ an intersection. I limped it to the other side, pulled over, & tried starting it up again. It started right away & then ran fine. I'd been low on gas but not so low that it should be an issue. I drove the rest of the way (on a highway) to a gas station (several miles) w/o A/C, no problem. I filled it up, did the washcloth trick once again in case that was related to the problem @ all, & drove the rest of the way home just fine. Battery is relatively new (about 2 yrs.) & alternator tested fine. Did not see any corrosion on a recent check of the battery posts. Outside air temp warm today, but not that bad...only mid-80s. Temp gauge read normal.