Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Spark Plug Break Off Prevention?
Aug 10, 2012
I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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Had the #2 ignition coil go bad (for the second time, mileage is only 84K) and decided to proactively replace all the spark plugs at the same time. #2 coil came out fine and replaced the plug with a toyota irridium. However, the #4 and #6 coils each separated from their respective boots. I was unable to extract either boot. I was able to re-insert the coils without replacing the spark plugs and the engine is running fine (no codes). Before I take on #1 , 3, and 5, I'd like to extract the stuck boots in #4 and 6 and replace the plugs.
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I have a 2005 passat 1.8t, whose check engine light had been on for some time. But yesterday when driving home, after visiting a friend, i noticed the check engine light flashing and the car refusing to accelerate, i managed to park after few minutes and switched off the engine. on coming out of the car i noticed smoke coming out of the bonnet. I quickly open the bonnet and made my way into the top of the engine with mechanic only to discover after opening one of the plug compartments that the plug cable/wire is burnt. The Engine could not start even after removing the burnt wire and plug completely.
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I was going to change the spark plugs on my 08 Camry CE today, so I removed one of the starters, and used my spark plug socket to extract the plug. The plug was sticking, so I pulled my socket out to get a better look at the plug, but when I pulled it out I noticed that there was a brown slimy liquid a good inch up the socket (I assume it was oil?). I looked down into the chamber and saw the plug surrounded by the fluid, and now I'm freaking out. Should I have my car towed to the mechanics and have them look at it? I feel like this can't be normal.
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I have a Ford Taurus 2004 and would like to change its Spark Plug. I am looking for instructions for doing so as 3 of the spark plugs at the back of the engine are under the manifold air-intake. I am looking for step by step instructions of how to reach to the spark plugs to the back.
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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Today I began to change the plugs on my '04 Camry 4cyl for the first time at a little over 100 thousand miles. The first plug I came to doesn't want to come loose. I started with a 8" ratchet, now I'm on it with a 12 " ratchet and it doesn't budge. I'm able to go up to 3' and almost anything in between with a breaker bar plus a cheater, but I've heard terrible tales of people who break off a plug. How much force can you safely put on a plug? how do shops remove stuck plugs?
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Continuing from this thread which I accidentally posted in the "main" forum.
I had trouble unscrewing the spark plug even though the advertised torque is only 13 ft-lb and the car is only 13K miles 1.5 year old.
I googled "spark plug stuck" and read some posts on line.
Lots of horror stories of broken spark plugs and stripped threads - big $ to repair.
[URL]
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