Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Replaced Timing Chain Kit / Phasers / Solenoid But Truck Stalls At Idle?
Jul 2, 2014
Just got 2005 screw fx4. Seemed to run ok 115000 mi.Had exhaust leak,I put on 3" cat back on. Then I noticed tapping at front of the engine.Turns out tim. chain guides are broken. looks like very common prob after reading many forum/threads. Anyway got timing chain kit, phasers, selinoids. Truck runs and sounds great.But so far had truck back 2weeks stalled 2x at idle.What next??
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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I had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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I had to replace the chain tensionor 3 times. I would like to know if that is a common problem with the 2.2L engines. How the chain is oiled while in operation.
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A week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
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My F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).
Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
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I have an 05 5.4 f250 that had a stuck injector. I changed plugs before I realized it was injector. After that the truck had a terrible rattling noise. I ended up changing timing tensioners and guides (guide was broken). Started it up and have the same noise, like timing chain is loose.
What I think happened is gas got into oil when injector was stuck. I had key on to pull codes. Then it lost oil pressure?
Could this cause can phases to go bad? Also can I just install lockouts or do I need to replace phasers as well?
Not sure if there's anything else I should check
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on an SOHC Explorer, only to have the tensioners fail again after only a few thousand miles? I'm a pretty experienced back yard mechanic and have rebuilt several engines over the years with great results, but this one has me stumped. The only part of the instructions I did not do was to remove the valve springs, but everything was lined up as it should have been using the special tools required to set the timing. I really like the truck, but don't know if it's worth fixing if this is just going to happen again.
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I have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
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Today I either broke timing chain or it fell off on the passenger side bank of my 08 F250 V10. Put a hole in valve cover. What to expect for repairs. Is this engine Zero tolerance.. unsure if I should expect bent valves or not and just how far I may have to go with this.. best way to test. I have a bore scope camera and mechanical abilities.
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I have an 04 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 v8 and it has 125k miles on it. This morning I was driving to work and when I was going down the express way it cut out for about 2 seconds then power slowly came back after about 5 seconds, when it happens I'm either cruising or accelerating lightly. Also when it first cuts out, my headlights flicker, and when I got off the expressway and was almost to work the truck stalled completely after I stopped it started up and I was able to get to work.
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Just did the timing chain, phasers, oil pump and lash adjusters on my 05 5.4 s-crew. Always had a bit of a rough idle but now it's worse. If the truck idles for an extended period it sets a p0300. Just off idle the misfire is gone. It does seem a touch down on power but otherwise runs great. I did have the plugs out during the work. I cleaned them, applied anti seize and re installed. The previous owner had the plugs and COPs changed 10k miles ago. Plugs are motorcraft and coils are aftermarket.
I monitored with oreillys crappy scan tool and the miss only happens at idle. It is not a dead miss; unplugging COP on each cylinder still makes it worse.
Truck idles warm at like 570 rpm and if I hold my foot on the pedal to raise rpm a bit miss goes away.
Each cylinder is logging misfire counts with no rhyme or reason. The only thing odd during the timing job was 4 spark plugs were partially loose.
I'm sure the timing is correct; I used the OTC crank tool and for timing kit. Truck has 150k, front 02s are fairly new...
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I changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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I replaced my knock sensors on 2004 5.4L and now it will not idle without me keeping foot on gas. Idles down to +- 450-500 rpms. If I hold down gas pedla seems to run smooth. What to check to fix this problem?
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I'm told by my dealer that I must replace the timing chain by 100,000 miles. I've also been told by others who've driven multiple vehicles over 250K miles that they've never replaced a timing chain on any of their vehicles. Who's right in this case?
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