Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Radio Work Only When Plug Back After Short Period Of Time?
Jan 10, 2012
been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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Recently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
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Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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I notice a bad smell when I start my 2011 ES350for a short period of time. After that it is fine. Auto has just over 10,000 miles on it. E mail from dealer tells me filter needs changing. Somehow I believe there is more to it.
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Bulbs, wiring and fuses are fine. Backup lights sometimes work for short periods of time if you jiggle the socket on top of the PNP switch. Tried spraying the sockets with wd 40 but did not work. know if cleaning the PNP will resolve this?
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I have a 2008 F150 4-Door. A couple of weeks ago I tried to turn my radio on and it wouldn't come on. I though it was just the cold weather affecting it. The following week I tired the radio again and it still would not come on so I pulled the fuse and checked it and it was good. Put in back in and the radio still would not come on. So I got a new fuse and put it in and the radio still would not come on. So what am I missing. What else can it be.
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Power steering on '03 Ion cuts out from time to time and then comes back on a short time later.
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I have a f150 2007 crew cab I bought used. None of the windows work all the time and the passenger side rear does not work at all. Is there a common problem with these trucks bad switches or motors or something?
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I have a 2008 F150 4 door 5.4 V8. It's your standard F150. Power Steering, Power Brakes, Radio/CD Player and A/C. It has just a little over 120 thousand miles on it. Until now I haven't had any problems with it. About a week ago I got in and cranked the truck and radio, clock didn't come on. I thought it was turned off so I pushed the button a couple of times with no results.
That evening I checked the fuse and the fuse wasn't blown but I checked it anyway and it was good. But I still replaced it with a new fuse that I checked to make sure it was good and the result was the same. No radio or clock. I have been told that there's another fuse behind the radio that could be blown. So here's my questions. First is there another fuse behind the radio. Second is how do you get the radio out and the third question is can you buy a refurbished one and if so where and what would the cost be. Or could it be something else.
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My Sport Trac will periodically fail to start after shutting it down for a short period. It doesn't stall, but won't start after parking for just a few minutes to a couple of hours. I've had it towed twice, but it always starts after it gets to the shop and the mechanic can't find a problem or a code. It has happened 4 times and seems to start again after it sits for 3 hours or more, definitely by the next morning. A fuel system cleaner had been tried and the fuel filter has been replaced, but the problem continues.
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Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous and after driving the vehicle and turning it off for a short period of time it will not start. It will continue to "crank" or "turn over" but cannot get it to start unless I wait for around 20-30 minutes at which time it will start like it never had a problem. Also now when I am driving and I hit the brakes to come to a stop the Anti-Lock Brake Light comes on and the AWD Disable Light comes on? I just had the brakes done and thought it could possibly be a problem with the way they were done and took it back to have the brakes checked out again but found nothing wrong....
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I got a 02 b5.5. Its a 1.8t once it runs for a while and i have to shut it off to get gas or stop for a quick period of time it wont start and smells like fuel.once it starts it floods. It keeps coming up with a coolant temp sensor code and a o2 code and i have replaced the coolant sensor with a green one and the thermostat. And I also replaced the n80 valve.i also did a tune up and did the valve cover gasket. i have two doing the same exact thing one with a v6 and the other is a 4cyl...
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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05 screw with no electrical or lighting mods. The other morning when I left the house, turned on the lights, all of the marker lights, dash, fog, etc. come on normally but no headlights. Placed switch in auto and all works fine, including lights. Move switch back and forth between auto and manual a few times and lights finally come on in manual. Next few days they worked fine. Now again this weekend it did it again. Everything worked fine in auto but no headlights in manual. Run the lights in the auto position and after about 5 min on the road switched back to manual and lights came on. I'm thinking possibly a bad headlight switch or maybe a relay that's hanging up or has a bad contact. I've searched but most of the problems I see are when the lights don't work in auto not manual.
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