I have a 2005 F150 Fx4 5.4 that keeps throwing a p0172 code. I've replaced all spark plugs, C.O.P's, fuel injectors, Mass airflow sensor, 1 o2 sensor, checked all vac lines and there ok.
View 2 RepliesFirst off its a 2006 F150 king ranch with the intercooled roush kit and roush tune. Last couple weeks its progressed from a slight stumble on start up, to now after its been off for a few hours it may start and run rough for a second, or, it may start then die, and then have to crank for at least 5 seconds before it starts. After it starts it seems to run fine. I've thrown the P0172 and P0175 code a few times. I downloaded the torque android app and did some data logging. Can you learn anything from the long term fuel trim?
View 9 RepliesMy son just left. We scanned his truck and got these codes.
P0172 Bank 1 rich P0300 random misfires P0303 cylinder 3 misfires.
I used the Torque APP Pro to check these codes. I went to live readings in the Torque APP and saw some readings for Long term and Short term bank 1 Readings.
They are all "greek" to me, and I don't recall what they were, but could get those readings tomorrow.
When I have done searches combining these codes together, I see changing spark plugs. P0172 alone gets me a different train of thought. Mainly CAT issues.
Also, his cranking to start is quite long. (A lot longer than my 6.0L would ever think of cranking) At least nearly 30 seconds of cranking. We are leaning toward first just changing #3 plug.
so i had a litle fun in the clay today ..and now my trucks check engine lights on ..i have a code reader im running a P0172 P01275 P2106 Ive cleaned the MAF and changed my air filter...still running the three codes afterwords no trouble with turning over starts right up and drives with a normal amount of power....its a 2004 5.4L V8 ...
View 12 RepliesUnable to decode the B6 axle code on my f150,5.4 L,FX4 2005. Clearly located on the drives side door is the label 'axle' directly below that is B6 ! Unable to locate a listing for this code any where?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 ford f-150 5.4 l that the cel light came on. when it first started it did not give me a code but said I had a small emmisions leak. In a day or two it finally gave me a code (p0446). I pulled out the evap control purge solenoid to ensure that it was not plugged. I checked the voltage @ the plug/ with the key on it is giving 14 volts. when i plugged the valve in it would not shift. I took the valve out and jumpered it directly to the battery and it seems to work fine but when I plug it into the harness it does not work, I Cleaned all connections I could going back to the pcm and doublechecked voltage @ the plug and still have 14 volts but will not fire the solenoid. the coil omhs out @ 63omhs. I am going to try a new valve....
View 7 RepliesI just acquired a wonderful 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6 liter truck. I need to get it passable for smog check here in AZ and the failed test revealed a P0453 error code (EVAP) which translates to a possible pressure sensor malfunction.
My question is finding the sensor and if I am looking at dropping the fuel tank to service/replace the sensor. Also, could a vacuum line be the cause?
I have a 2005 f150 5.4 3 valve with the p0012 code the truck runs good has a rough idle not sure if it is worth changing the vct or not the truck has 190000 miles....
View 1 Replies2005 FX4 truck. Doesn't click when going straight, but if turning wheel like turning into or out of a parking spot, it makes a clicking noise that gets faster as you get faster. It sounds almost like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke honestly. Don't know if its related, but about 3 months before i noticed the sound I had the Rancho quick lift struts installed on the truck. Somebody told me it could be wheel bearings but in my experience a wheel bearing will make a roaring noise, and it would roar while going straight down the road. This is only when turning the wheels. Also, it doesn't matter if you turn left or right, you can hear it both directions.
View 6 RepliesOk it's kind of hard to explain, but I have a 05 f150 fx4 5.4. Recently only when the motor is cold I will give it gas from about 1000 rpm and get a loud pop. Is sounds like its almost coming from under the drivers seat. After that is fine. I could almost make it do it on command now. But once it's warmed up doesn't seem to do it. I want to fix this. I was thinking possible backfire?? Spark plugs maybe??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 ford f150 supercab 4x4, and around feb I replaced all the ball joints my self, and now recently when back with the wheels turned turned to the left and then put it in drive and turn the wheels all the way right and give it has to take off there is a popping noise that comes from the driver side front wheel and it just does it once I take off and quit . I've looked and everything and cant see anything that would cause this. And know when I put it in park and it rolls forward I can hear a popping noise that sounds likes it coming from the rear end. I had my rear rebuilt, with new pinion bearing and race, a new axle on the pass side with bearing and the shop told me that it the driver side is questionable on the axle but it has new bearing also, they also told me that it needs a carrier case cause it had groves wore in it where the axle bearings wore out so much. at the time I could afford to have them to replace the carrier case. what would cause the popping from the front end and now the popping in the rear end.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Taurus. It has been running rough for awhile. It doesn't happen all the time, alas. I took it to my local repair guy. They first said, oh this happens when the AC is on. But I knew it happened otherwise.
The check engine light came on yesterday, blinking, but didn't stay on. And it was running rough. Check engine light came on, on a Sunday so I had to wait until Monday to bring the car in. They just called and said they can't find anything wrong, ran it on the computer, says it's running fine. I said, did you check the spark plugs, wires, etc? (I am good at googling, to be armed with some kind of info)
I am thinking they just put it on the computer. I suppose it has to be running bad to show anything (?) and even then, it's no guarantee. Anyway. It seems like I am "sentenced" to driving this car until it strands me, catches on fire (I read about that possibility and I have on occasion smelled something burning), or if luck has it, when it is running rough, and I bring it in while it's running rough, the computer finds the problem.
So my truck is reading a code at P0172 which means bank one is too rich. I replaced all of my o2 sensors, cleaned my MAF, and replaced PCV and hoses connected to it. What else could it be?
View 3 RepliesI just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
Having issue with his truck. He bought it 3 months ago and has no history. 166k. You now know as much as I do about the truck! He knows little about automobiles so fact finding has been difficult. I have done all my own work on countless US and foreign automobiles over the last 30 years and never take my vehicles anywhere. I will try to post as much detailed info as I can. I have read tons of posts now on various forums so I am up to speed on VCT and phasers.
This one seems similar, but not exactly the same symptoms which is why I am here. I have already pulled the VCTs and found the passenger side missing the top screen. I swapped them from side to side which made no difference. I checked ohms and they were at 15 which is normal from what I read. They were very clean and moved easily when I took them out so they were not gunked up so I don't think that's the problem. It idles very smoothly and isn't rough at all.
I have posted a video of the knocking/dieseling noise (link below) coming from the passenger side. The knocking starts as soon as the truck is started hot or cold (outside temps right now 70F-90F Houston). I can make the knock disappear by gently depressing the gas pedal going from idle of about 650/700 to maybe 750/800 and it will go away completely as long as I keep it gently depressed. As soon as I lift up it returns.
If I rev it up to 2000-3000 rpm it does not knock, however, as soon as I lift off quickly, it seems to knock at a high speed, hangs for a second and then knocks all the way back to idle. However, if I rev up and then lift off very slowly, it will not knock. I have tried to locate the exact location of the knock, but doesn't exactly seem right at the phaser, but actually back around the 2nd and 3rd spark plug area, but I can't tell exactly. I've had a couple people tell me the same when I asked them to tell me where its coming from. The noise is bouncing around in there so difficult to pinpoint exact area.
[URL] .....
I wanted to get some second opinions on what this could be so I know where to go next.
My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
View 4 RepliesWe took our 05 Prius to the mountains on Sunday. Coming down the hill from Lake Tahoe the temp climbed to 98. Suddenly we got the red triangle warning and the Hybrid system warning light. The car ran fine and showed no symptoms of any problems. We took the car to the dealer Monday morning. They Read the code P0A82. They said the Battery cooling fan was not coming on and blamed the problem on dog hair. The warning light was off. The car ran fine going home with no warnings. My questions
1) Can/did the dealer reset the warning light?
2) Is there a way to verify that code P0A82 is a bad cooling fan.
What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.