Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Misfiring On Cylinder 7 / Running Lean Bank One
Nov 7, 2014
i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
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I am getting cylinder 2 misfire and lean fuel bank 1. change the coil and didnt fix the misfire.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
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Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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I bought 04 Lariat (5.4 3v around 100k miles, Roush Off Road side exit exhaust, DWV intake mod, SCT 3015 tuner).
The truck has had a miss on and off for around a month I've changed plugs and tested all the coils. Which cured the problem for around a week, the FPDM had some white stuff on back and soft spot but not ate through. The only Check Engine Lights have been bank 1 to lean (which went away as soon as it came. But yesterday and today I've got bank 2 to lean.
Below is a quick data log pull... The misses is about ready to ship her out if she don't straighten up..
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2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
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1998 ranger 4.0L. I ran my scanner on my truck to day and my 2 bank 1 sensors seem to be bouncing between .150 and .700 but my bank 1 sensor 2 seems to be stuck at 680-720 and not bouncing, is this normal?
I did pull a code po135 heater circuit malfunction BANK 1 SENSOR 1 ...
Also I am not sure where my fuel trims should be...
My
ST1 10.0
LT1 25.0
ST2 12.0
LT2 25.0
closed loop.
When I first got the truck I pulled codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also a cylinder #4 misfire and the bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit. I reset the codes and the heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 popped the mil light in 5 min. So I am starting with the o2 sensors. I've not found any vacuum leaks at this point.
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 miles on it. Daily driver. Service light randomly comes on and when code reader was put to it shows "left bank running lean." Will clear it and will randomly come back on. Truck seems to be running fine. No issues engine. Bad sensor? Or bad injector? Maybe way to test?
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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My Prius started shaking pretty bad when the ICE is running. This morning I got the codes read and it came as Cylinder #1 misfire. I figured the coil pack is going bad (as is known to happen) so I swapped #1 and #2. The misfiring actually got better for about 30 minutes, but it finally happened and the CEL flashed again.
So I took it to get the code read but he said the only code is still #1 misfire. Perhaps the ignition coil is OK then? I bought a new spark plug, maybe the plug has gone bad. The plugs only have 45k miles on them. I'll swap it out and see what happens. What I should do to diagnose the issue? It seems to be slowly getting better...this afternoon it was much better than this morning but still shaking sporadically.
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I've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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My 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.
I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.
Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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What does this mean?? The o2 sensor(s) is reading lean?? 2001 F150 4x4 5.4
There was also an evaporator system code, but I think maybe someone left the gas cap loose? I unhooked the battery and it cleared everything. Truck started fine for a few tries. Will have it driven tomorrow to see if codes come back.
My reason for this is it was getting hard to start. I confirmed that fuel pump relay was not coming back on when cranking every time. Randomly it's fine, other times it won't start. Noticed it had CEL light, had it read at local Azone.
Don't know what to do about the "lean" issue? What would tell the pump relay to NOT turn on?
I removed the cover from the relay and inspected points, they were fine. Check with ohm meter=good. Watched it function without the cap on it. Would prime every time, but not come on when cranking every time.
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Well I got the ubiquitous "Bank 1 Too Lean" code this morning. Yesterday I changed out the PVC Valve, Elbow and Hose assy.
I changed out the hose from the intake to the canister purge valve on the firewall next to the master brake cylinder, that one was like dust.
Today I'm changing out the rear O2 sensors, but I may change out the fronts when they get them in (very rural area hear).
I'll keep looking for vacuum leaks and change out the MAF sensor. I hate to think it may be the intake....
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