Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Misfire Badly - Power Loss?
Dec 5, 2011
i have a 2005 expedition with the 5.4 and 100k miles. Rescently it began to missfire badly and lost almost all power to the point where it nearly dies. I have seveal codes that are baffeling me. Bank 1 is rich bank 2 is lean(this may be the other way around, p0300(multiple cyl missfire) and then 4 individual cyl missfire codes. I changed all of the spark plugs with factory motocraft ones from ford as the old ones were shot. Seems to miss just as badly as before and is no where near driveable. What would cause one bank to be rich and one bank lean? I ohmed all of the coils when I had them out and they all are very close to each other with no odd ball ohm readings so I believe they are all ok. Any sugestions as to where to check next?
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Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
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I have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
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my f150 running right so i can enjoy it like everyone else does. I have a 2005 Ford f150 with a 5.4 auto.
It has a rough idle(shakes the truck), very little power, and poor gas mileage. Randomly It will throw a code for misfire on 1 and/or 3 on start up only. It does seem to perform better within the first few of starting but dies right off after that. In fact i got stuck in the snow the other day and it could barely break the tires loose to try and get it out (almost put in 4low cause i didn't want to hurt the trans). I have replaced:
Cats
Fuel pump
Plugs (motorcraft)
Random Coils
Did the timing chains and phasers
MAF
All new injectors
Intake gasket
Was at my mechanics and had a scanner on it and at idle the 1-4 cylinders are all show a negative cylinder contribution. But when you rev it up they all go to 0 across the board. Was kind of thinking about the Variable Timing solenoid.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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I have a 2005 F-150XLT with the Triton 5.4L. The other day while driving on side roads (Paved, not back roads) I noticed my CEL on and it was blinking. There was a very rough idle as well as a big loss of power. When I pressed the gas pedal it was sluggish to say the least. I have yet to get a computer on it, since I had to order one. There is also a light gas smell, only smells near the rear of the truck. From what I am guessing, I think it is either a spark plur or a coil over pack, Truck has about 56K on it.
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I have had the check engine light on for a while now with the truck shuttering and bucking along with loss of power. Feels like there is something holding back the power. Just a couple days ago I was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden it felt like I was in neutral, tried to accelerate but the engine revved but wouldn't go anywhere, I clicked the overdrive on and it went into gear and I was able to drive home. Now every time I drive it, it goes a block or two in drive then again feels like neutral, put in overdrive and it goes into gear. I just put in new ignition coils.
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I posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
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My 2005 F150 crew had a misfire when under wot. I had been putting off the diagnosis fee for months, but I finally bit the bullet. Found out my number 3 coil was bad and the number 3 cylinder was dropping out. Dealer swapped out coil and truck runs better now. Still have to get plugs done. Truck has 88000 miles. Already had the cat replaced and didn't want to go through that again.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I have had my 2004 since it was new and recently I have had a power loss problem from 0-40 mph. I have taken it to 3 shops and they have tried everything to figure out why I have this problem, I was told that the coils needed to be replaced and that did nothing, I have changed the fuel filter external to the tank, replaced the catalytic converters because I was told they were plugged up, the 02 sensor was replaced and all of this has not worked so I took it to the Ford dealer and they could not find the problem either. The problem worsens with higher temperatures outside... I love my truck but I am getting real tired of chasing my tail.
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I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
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My 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
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07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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