Alright i have one here to stump everyone.... My uncle called me and his 05 f150 STX left speakers both front and back aren't working. I took a look at it the other day, i switched his radio with my radio from my 06 f150 stx, then I switched my front speaker out. Didn't work. I looked at his back speaker and the magnet on the speaker was stuck in the door. I checked fuses and don't see any blown.
View 1 RepliesSo I just replaced the stock head unit in my 2005 ford f150 with a brand new Sony one. Install went pretty smooth and I had every thing working pretty quick. So about an hour after the install I got in my truck to drive home and everything was working fine until about 5 minutes into driving all the door speakers just stopped working.
(Music was not blaring). Sub still works but that's it. No sound from the door speakers what so ever. I checked the fuse and the head unit. And all the fuses related to audio in the fuse box. Everything looks normal. Head unit powers on fine. Just no sound from any door speakers. The only thing that plays sound is the sub.
Installed Kenwood DDX7701HD unit and I have lost right side speakers. Used Metra Axxess TYTO-1 harness along with ASWC-1. Also had bad battery cell and replaced battery. I get plenty of sound from drivers area but when I adjust balance to right there is no sound at all there. At this point my ASWC-1 cycles through but isn't recognizing radio. That issue can wait unless it is part of this issue.
View 4 RepliesI can find some references to unsatisfactory sound and whining noises in the speakers, but not dead ones. The wife called me the other day, annoyed, and said that the speakers stopped working in the Treg. It appears that it is the left side, both front and back. They came back on for a little while, but now have been "dead" for a couple days. There is an occasional "pop" from the left side, but that is all.
View 2 RepliesMy trailer left turn signal and brake light stopped working. The running lights work on the trailer. The lights all work on the truck. I am hooked up to a 2007 F150 and it all worked 'yesterday.' not sure where to start.
View 6 RepliesMy driver side power window on my '05 super crew f150 has stopped working. It rolled down maybe 3-4 inches or so and the stopped working and now will not go up or down. All of the other windows/locks/mirrors on the main switch work so I'm not sure if I should start with replacing the motor or try the switch first.
View 3 RepliesJust bought an '08 Avalon XLS (very clean) and noticed that the left front end sits lower than the right. Vehicle has 80,000 miles ..
I have a '13 Camry as well, and love this Avalon.
I have a 2005 Supercrew 4X2 with 110,000 miles on it. Lately I've noticed at 30 mph and up if I steer to the left I get a growling noise from the left front. When I straighten up or steer right it goes away. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel or seat of the pants...just this growling noise during a left steer. Tires are about half wore out...I went ahead and rotated them to see if the growl moved. It didn't, stays in the left front.
Does that sound like the bearings in the rotor are on the way out? It won't stop raining so I haven't had a chance to jack it up and see if I have I have play in that tire/wheel. I thumbed through my Haynes manual and it seems pretty straight forward to replace the rotor. New rotors/bearings, one time use nut, might as well do pads while I'm in there, torque nut to 275 ft. lbs. Am I on the right track? Any other way to diagnose this growl? Is the R&R of the rotor as easy as it sounds? Tips or trick, things I should know that Haynes isn't telling...
First I will start off by stating that my truck is a 2005 Ford F150 2WD Regular Cab 6.5 Bed, with the V6.
My problem is, when making a left turn at low speeds, I have a grinding noise that corrects itself upon straightening out the truck. This seems to happen on turns in the parking lots etc. It almost sounds like the tires are rubbing but the tires are the same BFG's that have been on the truck for 40,000 miles and have never rubbed. I am thinking it might be the power steering pump but am unsure. I do not have access to a lift right now but I have done the shake test on all of the suspension components and nothing seems out of place or loose.
I have a 2005 F150 4x4, with just over 75K, and I have owned it from new. I am having left front brake issues. The left front brake seems to drag, but of course does not do it consistentally or after a given type of braking event. It just does it very randomly. I originally replaced the caplier pins thinking one may have been hanging up. It seemed to fix the issue for a couple months then it happened again. So doing more inquiry it seems some have had issues with the front rubber lines.
I just had both front lines replaced with OEM Ford parts and the system flushed out at a dealer. The brakes again seemed to work fine driving home from the dealer anto work today. Then on the way home it did it again, started dragging. The truck starts to feel sluggish while accelerating and slows very quickly just lifting off the gas. then when you get out you feel the wheel and it is very HOT and you can hear a heat popping sound. (First time it happened it was smoking it got so hot.) Right side seemsfine.
Since it does it so randomly I am at a loss. I can not just drop it off at the dealer and say drive it until it. I am considering having the caliper replaced, which I really considered when it was at the dealer for the hoses since I had the IWE's done at the same time, so they were off.
Yesterday my fuel gauge stopped working it is pegged all the way to the left. I filled up the truck no change. Got home and my garage door opener would not work and when sitting in car the map lights wont come on, the overhead lights work when you open the door. Cannot find any reference to what fuse any those items are connected to. is there a fuse for the fuel gauge?
View 9 RepliesI just purchased a new to me 05.
PO, had a pioneer H/U installed, however the 4 rear speakers have no sound.
The rear of the radio seems to have everything plugged into it correctly.
My steering wheel controls work fine.
I'm guessing the rear volume/controller is canceling out the rear speakers???
If so what can I do to make the speakers play? I don't need the rear control to work.
Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
I have a 2006 F150 and the left rear turn signal and brake light has quit working. Also the license plate lights do not work. The cruise will disconnect when signalling a left turn. I have checked fuses and bulbs and the wiring/connector at the multifunction switch with no luck.
View 2 Replies2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
View 9 RepliesI have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
View 1 RepliesTruck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
View 4 Repliesi have a lexus gs430 model 2008 , one day i started the car and noticed that the speakers not working at all ! not for seat belt alarm , not for the day date , not for radio , cd player , nav , also when i rise the volume up the volume number indicator do not appear on screen . before this situation the speakers were working perfectly fine .
View 14 Replies2005 F-150 5.4L RWD
I purchased this truck about 2 years ago, with about 70k miles. Previous owner had transmission work done, but I'm not sure if it was a rebuild, new, or refurbished. About 8 months ago I experienced hesitation, and frequent stalling when coming to a stop. Pulled the engine codes, and they said it was throttle body related. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body assembly inside, with the battery disconnected, went through the idle re-learn process, and it drove fine for a few days. Took it into the shop, and they did a tune up and replaced several plugs and coils. Since then, it's run great.
A couple of weeks ago, a whining/buzzing noise was coming from the engine compartment, getting much louder as RPMs increased. Got the oil changed a week ago (it was overdue), and the tech at the quick lube shop said the noise was from the drive pulley(s), and that they should be replaced.
Today, I was waiting for the parking lot at work to open, sitting in park. I quickly switched to Drive, and the trans didn't seem to engage (Auto Trans). The engine revved, I let off the gas, and it then engaged and I scooted into a parking spot. After work, on the way home, there were similar issues at the beginning of the drive, mainly when slowing down/stopping/down-shifting. Most of the drive was on hwy, and I managed to get by okay going around 60 mph, with some spikes in RPM's occasionally when I would accelerate (no Tach, so I'm going by sound). Half way home on the high way, the O/D Off light starting quickly blinking, and the odometer screen read "TRANS FAULT". I managed to make it off of the highway, and stopped at the first red light, where the engine stalled. Turned it back on, put it in gear, and it drove fine for about 5-10 minutes on back roads, with no lights/notices. The last 2 miles home I experienced a lot of slipping, and high revs. When I backed into my parking spot, there was noticeable leaking... Trans fluid was leaking fairly quickly. I hadn't noticed any trans fluid leaking before today... I went out to run the engine and take a short trip to warm up the fluid to get a reading, but it wouldn't engage in Forward or Reverse at all. Pulled the dipstick out, while "cold", and there was nothing... I'm assuming that it's drained drastically, and is extremely low or gone.
05 v8 5_4. Xlt
Odometer display quit on me. This is the co.pass and temp as well. I have also noticed that when I come to a complete stop and then take off a again, the auto lock feature activates like I had put it in park and then back to drive. Thinking I could have an electrical issue here.
When I brake I hear a zapping noise coming from the left side. Is this normal or could something be wrong?
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