I just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
View 13 RepliesI have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
I have a 2005 5.4l f150. 105,000 miles. Recently While on a trip I experienced rough idle and stalling at idle. I drove it home 2hrs. The ride home was challenging. Poor acceleration, rough idle. Took it to the dealer and was told I needed plugs and I was 5qts low on oil! Not sure where the oil went. It hasn't been leaking and never seemed to burn oil in the past. They did the tune up. Picked up the truck. It ran fine while cold. Upon warming up it ran rough at idle and stalled just like it did before. Took it back, they said "you need a new engine. Upon warming the oil pressure drops indicating internal engine damage". I took it to a local guy he says replacing the cam phasers might fix it. What's the consensus, should I try the cam phasers? Look for some other potential problem or trust the dealer? (They did refund me for the tune up)...
View 14 Replies2005 f-150 4.6l v8 rough idle only when truck is to normal operating temp. I have run several gas system cleaners through the truck. I replaced the air filter, the fuel filter and the spark plugs. I am only getting 14to 15 mpg mostly highway. No DTC's are showing up. The truck only has 50,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesA week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
my f150 running right so i can enjoy it like everyone else does. I have a 2005 Ford f150 with a 5.4 auto.
It has a rough idle(shakes the truck), very little power, and poor gas mileage. Randomly It will throw a code for misfire on 1 and/or 3 on start up only. It does seem to perform better within the first few of starting but dies right off after that. In fact i got stuck in the snow the other day and it could barely break the tires loose to try and get it out (almost put in 4low cause i didn't want to hurt the trans). I have replaced:
Cats
Fuel pump
Plugs (motorcraft)
Random Coils
Did the timing chains and phasers
MAF
All new injectors
Intake gasket
Was at my mechanics and had a scanner on it and at idle the 1-4 cylinders are all show a negative cylinder contribution. But when you rev it up they all go to 0 across the board. Was kind of thinking about the Variable Timing solenoid.
I have a 2005 f150 5.4 3 valve with the p0012 code the truck runs good has a rough idle not sure if it is worth changing the vct or not the truck has 190000 miles....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150XLT with the Triton 5.4L. The other day while driving on side roads (Paved, not back roads) I noticed my CEL on and it was blinking. There was a very rough idle as well as a big loss of power. When I pressed the gas pedal it was sluggish to say the least. I have yet to get a computer on it, since I had to order one. There is also a light gas smell, only smells near the rear of the truck. From what I am guessing, I think it is either a spark plur or a coil over pack, Truck has about 56K on it.
View 1 RepliesGetting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
View 7 Replies2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
View 4 RepliesMy 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
View 12 Replies2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
View 1 RepliesMy g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
It started completely unexpectedly about a month ago when I was driving around 70kmh while cruising. I would get a few "jerks" of a sputter, then was able to drive a km or 2 before it did it again. I drove to a friends and he got in, and the sputtering episode was over.
Since then, I cannot simulate the way I was driving to make it sputter for any mechanic, but I have been getting sputter on and off the last month.
The one time I got in the truck and started it, put the truck in drive, and it sputtered for a few seconds. I wasnt driving at all this time. This was the only time It sputtered in a stading position.
Here are a few points to maybe, narrow down what happens.
-I am usually driving around 70-90kmh
-I am usually under no loads (not towing, hauling etc).
-My mileage seems to be getting worse.
-this was normally happening not only when the engine was warm, but when it was warm outside and I was driving it for a longer period.
-When I started driving my truck I calculated around 16mpg city. I am currently getting around 13-14. I was on the hiway for around 250 km and got 14mpg. Seems I get better mileage when puttering through the city than when I am on the highway.
I had the truck in to a dealer 2 weeks ago. They did an injector flush, new sparkies, number 5 coil, and took me for $780, saying the problem is fixed.
A few days ago, I was driving on the onramp to the highway accelerating around 90kmh and for around 4-5 seconds I was sputtering and jerking so bad I thought I was done for. The truck finally recovered and again, haven't had any episodes since.
The dealership says their electrician doesn't know what to do, and would need my truck for 4-5 days to try to see the problem for himself. I can only think, as a non-mechanic, that it is something to do with some sensor, possibly a fuel, and/or oxygen sensor.
2005 F-150
4.6
88000km
gas
I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
View 8 Replies