Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Instrument Gauge Cluster Swap?
Apr 9, 2011
I found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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I have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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Will an engine from a 2010 f250 5.4 work in my 2005 f150 5.4? f
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I like the 05 - 07 F 250 Instrument Cluster better than our stock excursion's. It is just plug and play or is it much more complicated.
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05 6.0L xlt if that matters. Occasionally, I'll be driving and the speedometer will stick at a certain speed as I slow down. So yesterday it happened again on my way to work, but it was worse. I noticed that as I was driving, the needle was stuck at 0mph. Then a minute later as I was accelerating from a stop, It began working again. A few minutes later, as I was slowing down for a red light, it was stuck at 55mph. As I accelerate again, the needle moves as if 55mph is 0mph. Then it stuck at 85. And as I drive, the needle is just pegged well past 100mph, even though, I'm doing 65-70 max. I have Torque Pro, and all the info from the computer is correct, I can accurately measure my speed from there. Turning the truck off does not reset the needle or anything. It still remains stuck with the truck off, which makes me think it's something mechanical. Eventually, the needle usually lets go and begins working normally for a while.
In addition to the speedo issue, which has happened multiple times, The tachometer was working correctly, then all of a sudden was showing that the RPMs were about 800-1000 lower than normal. When idling, the needle was at zero. When at 65, the needle was around 1000-1100, when it normally reads about 1900. When I left work last night, the tach was fine, but the speedo was still stuck at 85.
It doesn't do it very often, it's just frustrating when it does. All the other gauges seem to function normally. The temp gauges still move, although, I know that means pretty much nothing. The boost gauge is good too.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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I just noticed the other day that part of my instrument cluster is darker than the rest. Everything is nice and bright however my 0-20mpg area isn't as bright as the rest of my cluster.
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I just noticed the other day that one part of my cluster is darker than the rest. my 0mph-25mph is the dimmest part of the entire cluster. I do know that these clusters are LED illuminated, but wanted to know if taking the cluster apart and what the replacement of this LED all consisted of.
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The backlighting on my instrument cluster is dim behind the 10mph area and bright everywhere else. There is a light bulb or LED burned out. On most cars you can just replace a bulb back there. Is this possible on the GX470? I can not find the part number anywhere.
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The information screen is out on my '04 instrument cluster, and I hear that I have to replace the whole cluster. Can I replace it with a used cluster, or does it have to be new. The dealer is telling me that it needs to be new in order to do the reprogramming of the keys, etc.
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I have a 2004 f 450 cab and chassis truck that the problem started out with the radio not coming on. So I asked the local dealer and he gave me a wiring diagram. I pulled the fuse box out and checked the wire from the fuse box to the radio and it works. Great. But he also said I could take the fuse box apart and check to see if their was a broken connection in it. So I did and could only get so far with it. It has a lot of pin on one side that go all the always through and are soldered on both ends. So I put it all back together and reinstalled it. Now the instrument cluster does not work. Not even the warning lights. The interior light doesn't come on either or the door chime. Is it possible to melt the solder off and open the fuse box completely and check all the connections.
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The instrument cluster screen in my 2004 phaeton suddenly stopped displaying anything today, I've tried removing and replacing fuses but still nothing, not even the backlight for the display is on, everything else is working fine its just the display. I need the car for a 600mi trip in 2 days.
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I have not been here in a while. Sold my IS250 and picked up a 2004 GX470 for the family. Installed a new double DIN head unit a few months ago and finally got around yesterday to installing the backup camera. Since I had the rear hatch open I decided to replace the rear hatch lock actuator motor as well. Hooked everything up and turned on prior to closing the interior panels and everything worked fine (reverse lights, locks, backup camera, started up fine). So I closed up all the panels and go to start the car and I get nothing but random flashing from the dash once I get ignition to ON. I also get a steady clicking from the fuse area.
Checked the fuses and I also tried to hookup to Techstream to see if any errors, but of course I get nothing (it can't connect to the vehicle). I disconnected the negative for 20 mins or so and tried starting again with the same outcome. So I disconnected the camera wires from the reverse light (thinking maybe the GND wire was shorting somewhere to chassis?) and disconnected the negative battery cable for a while and tried once again... same flashing instrument cluster lights and no luck . Gotta get the wifes vehicle back up and running.
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