Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Headlights Only Work In AUTO Position
Aug 29, 2011
05 screw with no electrical or lighting mods. The other morning when I left the house, turned on the lights, all of the marker lights, dash, fog, etc. come on normally but no headlights. Placed switch in auto and all works fine, including lights. Move switch back and forth between auto and manual a few times and lights finally come on in manual. Next few days they worked fine. Now again this weekend it did it again. Everything worked fine in auto but no headlights in manual. Run the lights in the auto position and after about 5 min on the road switched back to manual and lights came on. I'm thinking possibly a bad headlight switch or maybe a relay that's hanging up or has a bad contact. I've searched but most of the problems I see are when the lights don't work in auto not manual.
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2004 f-150. When I put the light switch in "auto" position and it gets dark, only the parking lights come on. The headlights do not come on. The headlights work when I put the switch in the "on" position, however. This makes no sense to me.
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As the title states I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 4x4 and lately the auto headlight / overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Both seem to function just fine but a couple of days later the fuse will be blown. I am not functioning the OD button when it blows so I'm guessing its something with the headlights. What else does that fuse protect?
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I bought my 2005 f150 three years ago and the auto headlights never worked. I have just turned them on manually. Couple weeks ago they started to delay coming on and now they do not work at all. All other lights work including fog lights.
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New owner of a 2011 Prius II. I have put 600 miles on it so far.
1. Is there a way to make the car automatically lock when I get out of it without having to dig my key out of my purse and hit the lock button or run my finger over the door sensor? It seems to me that once you get out of key range, it should have an option to auto lock - or maybe after a certain amount of time autolock.
2. On a Prius II (no auto setting on headlights) - is there any problem at all with just leaving the headlights in the on position all the time? They turn off automatically 30 seconds after I leave the car, so is there a downside to doing this?
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I have a 2006 Focus ZX4 with 158k miles. A couple of days ago, I turned on the headlights after starting the engine and had no low beam on the driver's side. Both high beams work. Thinking the filament had gone, I replaced both bulbs with new ones. After several frustrating minutes, I realized the headlights only come on with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. I still have no low beam on the driver's side. I checked the fuse, which appeared to be good, and replaced it anyway.
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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My 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 5.4l V8. the climate control system will not let me lower the fan speed or let me change the airflow direction. and my heated seats will not work as well.. i looked at the fuse it was good.. and un-plugged the battery for 3 minutes.
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been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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I have an 06 Limited. The headlights have an auto feature so that they turn on in the night time. Well, how to change the sensitivity of the light sensor? Its always dark and cloudy where i live so i almost always want my lights on, but its not dark enough for the sensor. I know i can take it into the dealership to have it adjusted, but im curious to know how it is done. Also on a side note, is there a way to easily mute the audio from the steering wheel? it turns down the volume quite slow when holding the button down.
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When AC is on "Auto" the fan runs at slowest speed unless outside temp is over 100 degrees or setting is below 64 degrees. With setting left at 70 or 71 degrees, and outside temp is 80 or higher, cabin temp will slowly rise when driving in traffic and will slowly fall at speeds over 60, but not reach set temp until driving over an hour plus.
If fan is manually adjusted to higher speed, "Auto" system shuts off and AC becomes totally manual control. If the "Auto" button is touched, fan goes off again and the system will not do any of the automatic functions spelled out in manual.
Two different dealers have advised that ALL 2014 Avalons are like this and so it is considered "normal" regardless of what manual says and they and Toyota Customer Service refuse to do anything about it. What is the experience of other 2014 owners.
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I recently purchased my first car/jetta. When i switch the knob to turn on the instrument lights on my 2000 jetta the headlights don't come on. But when i turn the knob off the auto headlights turn on. Any insight on this? when i first got the car everything was working fine. It only started to happen after I replaced the radiator.
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Brake lights are OK. Turn signals emergency are OK. High beams and drl work.
We checked the driver door panel fuses and those are OK. Will try to replace a bulb.
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I just got a new battery installed from Walmart for my 2007 Avalon. After replacing the battery I am experiencing a wide variety of electrical problems. The car starts fine that's not the problem. Here's a lost of all of the problems:
Navigation display now goes I wired directions...it used to follow the direction the car was going
Passenger window does not work at all
Driver side window works but the auto function does not work
Sun roof auto feature does not work so you have to hold the button the whole time as opposed to just pressing it once
What could have caused this?? I haven't tried cleaning the terminals or anything yet.
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In hooking up a overhead DVD player it shorted out the Controlled Ground (Delay)(DOOR) Wire, now the dome light works still in the ON position but not in the AUTO position with the doors. It is very frustrating of a night when getting out and can't see. I'm not sure if it is a relay or a module that has gone bad and where it would be located. I know it's not a fuse because I have already check for that and I've checked the Controlled Ground Wire before it went bad and after with a meter.
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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We've use the Auto position for he headlights most of the time since our 2008 was new. Not every time, but too often, the speedometer cluster lighting doesn't switch to dimmed setting when the headlights come on. It seems to happen most frequently when we are in a parade at night. The backlight for the radio dims properly with the Rheostat, but not the Speedometer Cluster. To get it to work properly, you simply need to turn he headlights off and back on again. (or today, open the door)
Sometimes the dim after a 5 second delay (after covering the sensor), and other times, they don't dim after a 20 minute drive in the pitch black.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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Just got a 2014 Prius Three. All my precious cars (non-Prius) had an automatic on headlight system, noticed the Prius doesn't. Can I just replace the turn signal lever with one that has the 'auto' feature? Could it possibly be that simple?
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I recently purchased an 05 prius pack 4, it has an Auto mode on the headlight switch that does not work. as in the headlights do not turn on in pitch black night... From the searches I have done it appears that the car should not have auto headlights and yet it has the switch... I dont think its canadian because it does not have DRLs... if some models DO have auto headlights then what would cause them to not work.
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