Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 F150 - Rusted Frame With 70K?
Mar 18, 2017
Just got bad news hours ago...frame not safe ?
View 2 RepliesJust got bad news hours ago...frame not safe ?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
View 19 RepliesThe rear sub frame fell out of her 06 Escape Hybrid. She found the recall for the 01-04's, was the problem fixed in 2004, or are later models subject to the recall and repair also?
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 F150 crew had a misfire when under wot. I had been putting off the diagnosis fee for months, but I finally bit the bullet. Found out my number 3 coil was bad and the number 3 cylinder was dropping out. Dealer swapped out coil and truck runs better now. Still have to get plugs done. Truck has 88000 miles. Already had the cat replaced and didn't want to go through that again.
View 5 RepliesHow's it going? I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an ehaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
View 6 RepliesJust bought a 2006 f150, the tailgate hinge seems to be rusted to the cup(drivers side). Any tips for repairing/ getting it freed up?
View 5 RepliesTruck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
View 14 RepliesThe radius arm bracket holes and the holes on the frame line up, but there is a gap between the bottom of the frame and the bracket. I am wondering what to do at this point.
View 1 RepliesThe ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
What could be the issue with my Camry. Basically when I drive up a ramp with a decent amount of incline and going at an angle, I hear a knocking sound from what seems to be the frame of the car somewhere and I can tell because the interior upholstery makes a sound as if it were shifting. In other words, the sound I heard from the upholstery is the same sound you would hear if you were trying to separate two objects glued together.
View 2 RepliesI have an 2012 isf with sikky headers and borla exhaust, and my left header hits the frame of my car when I'm taking off.
View 3 RepliesWould be very interested in any fixes known for an annoying, recurring drivers side window/upper door frame rattle in my 2008 ES 350, occurs when going over bumps, uneven roads, or sometimes with just normal driving. Intermittent, but very common. Have had dealer address this and they replaced the "glass run" on that side, but rattle returned within a few days. Will try some silicon spray to dampen it, but seems like there is some flaw when the window is full up to door frame that produces this ticking rattle- can eliminate it by lowering the window an inch so that it does not insert into door frame.
View 7 RepliesI was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
View 11 RepliesMy 2005 SuperCab 5.4 4x4 won't go into 4wd...I turn it on and nothing! No light, no clunk, nothing! (No 4Low either). I checked all the related fuses and relay fuses behind the passenger kick panel, and they are all fine. I don't do any off roading, nor have I ran anything over. The truck only has 20,000 miles on it.
I did have the brake booster hose recall a couple years ago, so I'm going to crawl under to see perhaps the technician didn't click a harness back together or something.
I have a 2005 f150, when my AC is on (it's summer in the south so yes it's on constantly) my truck shakes. The best way to describe it: you know when you're at an idle, and the vehicle wants to stall out and it has that shake to it? That's what my truck does when the AC is on, I mostly feel it when there is no gas applied. Also my AC makes a horrid sound when idling (like a loud pop now and then) and unless I'm driving, it won't blow cool air.Why?! Simple fix or time for a new AC?
View 13 RepliesI recently replaced the power steering pump and both lines but I just can't seem to get the air out of the system.
View 7 Replies2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2005 F-150 (5.4 triton) with about 35k miles that I rarely use in 4x4 mode. The other day, after stopping to fill up with gas, the truck 4x4 Lo light was on after starting it. The dashboard switch was still in 2H mode as I never switched it. I first thought that the dashboard light might be in error, but when I began to pull out of the gas station. the truck was in fact in 4x4 Lo. I had forgotten how to cycle it back to 2H so I slowly drove about 3 miles home at 20 mph.
Once home, I re-read the tranny sync sequence and managed to get back to 4x2. I called the dealer who never heard of a truck getting into that Lo mode w/o activating the switch and suggested that I just monitor it. I read a number of forum threads discussing the IWE and solenoid problems, but all of those threads dealt with issues of not being able to get too 4x4 mode. My biggest concern is that I leave in a month for a 2000 mile trip, towing a cargo trailer and I'd hate to inadvertently switch into 4/4 when traveling 60 mpg on a highway.