Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Engine Missing And CEL Light On
Feb 1, 2012
My dad is looking at a 2005 F150 2wd with the 4.6L V8 that a friend of his has. Its a 2wd XL, but has the cloth seats, the interior and body are excellent conditions. Its high mileage however, (210K), but the engine sounds good, but it has a miss and the check engine light is on. He took it about 6 months ago and had the oil changed, new belts and spark plugs, drove it very little and its been setting for sale for about 3 months.
When dad started it this evening, the engine was missing and the CEL light is on. His friend suggested he drive the truck for as long as he likes, (which he did today and he does like it) but I advised my dad to take it to a mechanic and have it checked out first, maybe even the dealer to have it checked out to be safe.... which he did today. He took it to a local Ford dealer today to get them to check it out they stated that it was a coil pack that is bad on the #2 cylinder.
They (dealer) also told him a bunch of other things that was "wrong" with it, but I think a lot of it was lies just to get him to get it fixed there and make money off of him. They said it needed an intake gasket (said it was leaking a little bit), they also said, battery and cables need to be cleaned, tranny service, coolant flush, etc, etc, etc.
Once outside the guy (tech) was bringing the truck out and my dad asked him the about that intake gasket and he acted like as if the dealer makes them act like things are a big deal, or saying they may not always need what they say. He told dad alot of those 4.6L's did that and it was really nothing to be concerned about, but I don't know.
I have a 95 Town Car with the 4.6L and am familiar with these cars, but I guess the 4.6L in these F150s are different beasts. I do know the plastic intakes on the 96+ models were issues.
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I have a 2005 FX4 with a 5.4L. I have noticed in the past 3 months that when I mash the go pedal hard the engine misses and there is a popping sound. My gas mileage has gone down 2-3 MPG.
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I bought 04 Lariat (5.4 3v around 100k miles, Roush Off Road side exit exhaust, DWV intake mod, SCT 3015 tuner).
The truck has had a miss on and off for around a month I've changed plugs and tested all the coils. Which cured the problem for around a week, the FPDM had some white stuff on back and soft spot but not ate through. The only Check Engine Lights have been bank 1 to lean (which went away as soon as it came. But yesterday and today I've got bank 2 to lean.
Below is a quick data log pull... The misses is about ready to ship her out if she don't straighten up..
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Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
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I have a Ford F150 5.4L lariat 2 wheel drive with 78,000 miles on it. I just had new platinum plugs put in and a new air filter along with the routine LOF service. I had the plugs changed because I was experiencing some missing out at 50 MPH. The check engine light was not on. The mechanic said that one plug was definitely bad.
I have had the truck back for a week now and today while driving it I had the same missing out at 50MPH. The check engine light is not on. I had the cruise control on when it happened so now I am wondering if it could be related to the cruise control? What else It could be?
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I have a 2005 f-150 with the 5.4 engine. Bought it new and now it has 107,000 miles on it. Recently,it would have a shudder at 65 or 75 mph then the passing gear would kick on and it worked perfectly. The warning check engine light came on,then,when it acted up it would flash intermittently. Took it in to the dealership and put it on the diagnosis machine. Said cylinders 2,3, and seven were not steady etc?? So,after he took it out and drove it he said those particular cylinder walls were scored. I put in a K-N air filter at about 50,000 miles,and he said that they do not seal properly and dust got by the filter into the intake and got into the engine and did this damage. One think he found was a bad coil on one cylinder and replaced it. And just as he said,when I got on the road home I romped on it and it cut out and the intermittent signal showed again! He said that that would happen and it did.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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My 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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I have an 05 F-150 Lariat 5.4 and it has been going haywire today. While driving if I hit a hard bump the power will cut off (radio, a/c) and even sometimes the truck. Check engine light came on and I pulled codes P2160 & P0506. Also, when it completely cuts off and I start it back up it says "engine in failsafe mode".
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I just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
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My cat converter is rattling on driver's side and check engine light is on. Rattle is the inside of the converter, not the heat shield. How much $ and what kind of converter replacement is recommended?
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Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
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During a hard acceleration to get on the freeway, the car "missed" and the check engine light came on. The shop said it was the fuel pump and replaced it. When I picked it up, they told me that I may need a new battery soon because the last start they did was hard. It worked well for me, but that day it was hard to start, but it did not seem like the battery. The shop checked the electrical system and all was good. They said the new fuel pump was faulty and replaced it. Since then, when it is over 70 degrees out (South Texas), and it is a hot start (I just drove it a while, turned it off, and try to restart within 30 minutes), it is hard to start. Could this be another faulty fuel pump? Is this some other problem? Could the shop have damaged something during the fuel pump replacement?
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So a week ago, I had a good load of sod in my 05 F150 4WD. After a few miles, the ABS light came on and has stayed on. Will this go back off by itself after a time, or is this a get it fixed deal? Tried unhooking the battery, but no luck.
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My engine wont start and i have changed the fuel pump, the fuel pump module, and the fuel rail sensor. it has started once for about 30 seconds but dies and wont start again.
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ford f 150 2005, engine wont crank over. Tried all these remedies but none of them work. [URL] .....
Here was the scenario: someone drove my truck in 4 low for a very long time.3 hrs doing over 80 km/h) When i drove the truck i could get it out of 4 low it is still in 4 low. But then the truck died on me.
The alternator pulley went on it. replaced the alternator then proceeded with the remedies from the link above.
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I have an 05 f150 5.4 v8 super crew cab and I bought it for 3000 because of a cracked block. I bought a re-manufactured engine and installed it and now i have a knocking that wont go away. After I started it up it sounded beautiful for about 10 minutes and then i had a knocking start up. I have put about 30 miles on the new engine and still have the knocking. I let it sit over night and I started it up and there was no knocking so i drove about 3 miles to the gas station and by the time I got there the knocking was back. it runs fine no other issues but why do I have this knocking with a new engine.
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I drive a 2005 F-150 XLT with a 5.4L engine in it. This problem only happens after I have been running the truck on a small trip (15-20 min), stop to get something, and then 5 min later start the truck up, and this is the feedback I get.
-Sometimes it barely cranks, idles for a second and then cuts back off.
OR
-Takes much longer than usual to crank and get's going fine.
This is the only time it happens, upon restart after driving for a short period.
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The park brake light stays on brake fluid level is good park brake is not on park brake switch is ok will sometimes go out but always comes back on .My son and one of my buddys also have a 2005 and have the same problem....
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I have a 2005 F150 XLT with a 5.4 (198,000miles) RWD. A few months back it developed a miss due to bad COP's, typical shuddering around 50-60 MPH.
I pulled off the COPs and while I was in there I pulled my old plugs as well. New Motorcraft SP515 plugs went in with a little nickle anti-seize being careful not to get any near the end of the plug and I put a set of Granatelli COPs on with a little di-electric grease on the inside of the boot. The miss went away and the truck drove like a champ.
I will also note that I replaced the front wheel hub/rotors, front calipers and new pads. I resurfaced the rear rotors, new pads and new E-brake shoes also.
The issue I am having is under light acceleration, or "normal" driving conditions the vehicle has a mild shake which eventually smooths out.
My first assumption was that I did not torque my front wheel hubs correctly or that I messed something up so I took the truck to my local front end/alignment shop for a full inspection and they said everything is great. They also said that they didn't really feel the vibrations that I mentioned. I am used to this truck driving very smooth up until the misfire situation so to me it is quit noticeable. After the front end shop I went to Discount tire cause they mentioned that my rear wheels are bouncing pretty good and that may be what I am noticing. Turns out the tires were out of balance which Discount took care of and rotated my tires while I was there.
The vibration is STILL THERE! No CELs to reference, just an obnoxious vibration. I tried to isolate the issue by accelerating in 1,2, and in D. The issue occurs regardless of the gear I start off in.
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