I have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
05 v8 5_4. Xlt
Odometer display quit on me. This is the co.pass and temp as well. I have also noticed that when I come to a complete stop and then take off a again, the auto lock feature activates like I had put it in park and then back to drive. Thinking I could have an electrical issue here.
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
My truck is a 2004 F150 XLT, 4.6L 2 wheel drive extended cab
The truck starts fine. With no lights on, heater/ac blower turned off... my turn signals and hazards work as they should.
If I turn on my headlights, I have no turn signals and the indicators on the dash are slightly lit up along with my highbeam indicators. The actual dash lights do not come on.
The blower does not work at all regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Turning the blower on immediately creates the same issue as the lights. (no turn signals, slightly lit up indicators, etc). The blower does not work on any speed. I can hear the duct work changing direction behind the dash as I move the blower selector from dash to windshield to floor, etc. I can also hear the compressor kicking on for the AC.
What I have done: I have checked all the fuses. I have attempted to remove every one of them while running to see if anything shutting off would let the blower kick on. I have unplugged the blower entirely wondering if there was a dead short. I have removed and unplugged the resistor to see if that might be an issue. I have also removed the right side kick panel and checked the ground wire there that runs to the dash. Everything so far seems to be in good order.
i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
View 6 RepliesAs the title states, my odometer back light works just fine, but nothing displays on it. No mileage reading, no nothing. How to fix it? Found plenty about fixing the back light, but can't find anything similar to this issue.
I've had the battery off for 30-40 minutes and the issue persists after restarting.
2004 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.4L
I have 2005 FX4 the odometer/temp display is flashing on and off like there is a loose connection the green back drop stay lit it's the black numbers is flashing on off it doesn't mater if it's running or in key on this is what I got ?
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 F150 XLT, 5.4L, 4X4: 3 times in the past 4 months while towing a small trailer a message comes on in the dash display "trans fault" and the OD OFF flashes on the dash. What is the fix?
View 2 RepliesI have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
View 5 RepliesHave a 2005 f150 5.4 4x4 Crewcab with no electrical power inside or outside cab. Any checklist of tests to perform. The battery is new and the connectors have been replaced.
View 5 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood or if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
View 3 RepliesToday I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
My dad has a 2005 Ford F150 and his airbag light buzzes and flashes. We counted and it flashes 5 times then short pause then 1 flash then long pause and restarts. Also I dont know if it is related but his cruise control doesnt work either.
View 9 Replies I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
I just bought a 97 f-150 from my dad, there are some electrical issue's but the main one seems to be battery drain.
I have noticed with the truck off key in my pocket, the a/c doors keep trying to move and the a/c head has power to it.
I know the engine has been replaced, with about 20k on it.
The temp gauge pegs w/o getting hot, and it even turned over once while we were getting in the truck. Again key in pocket.
My 2008 F250's passenger side mirror will not fold/unfold with the switch. Also the motor continues to run when the switch is moved to fold/unfold the mirrors.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 250 SD. Supercab. Took out the bench and replaced with captains or buckets, whatever you want to call them. Perfect fit. The new seats have their own seat belts built in to them. The old ones, were mounted to the floor and roof. Now the air bag light blinks for a fairly long time, then stays on! What? OK, So, what do I NOT know about this project? I did have to make the wires longer in order to reconnect the plugs. Not a problem, I am an electrician. Trouble shooting is ok, when you know where to start.
View 10 Replies tried to look into the wiring below the fuse box. The fuse tested perfect.
I've gone as far as to -removed- the fuse box to inspect wires wrapped together behind it, and nothing.
Most threads talk about orange wires with a green stripe meeting in a corroded splice. I can only find one orange wire with a green stripe, no splice found on it yet. Other splices (like on white wires with blue stripe)look very good, no trace of corrosion at all!
I know fuse #3 powers the mirrors, but it is impossible to visually trace which wires it is connected to, even with the fuse box in my hands... I guess tomorrow I will probe all the contacts for connection to fuse #3...?
Swapping the 08 mirrors onto older trucks. Which wire I should splice into in the door sill for the right turn signals?
I have an 08, with the tow mirrors/turn signals integrated. On the passenger side, the turn signal does not work. I'm not getting power at the plug.
I traced the wire colors from the headlight and taillight turn lamps and tried splicing into the same colored wires under the passenger door sill. This didn't work (I did get it to work on park lamps though, just not the turn signal). I can't find wiring diagrams.
I have an electrical issue on my 2007 F150.
The drivers door electrical switches (windows/locks/mirrors) have all stopped working. The locks on the other doors work but not the windows.
I have replaced all fuses with no luck. I'm thinking it's either a ground wire or the accessory delay relay.