Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Cylinder #5 Misfiring?
Nov 30, 2014
Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway.
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i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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Changed the spark plugs now I have misfire in cylinders 3 and 6. Do I change the spark plug wires or the coil pack?
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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CEL came on and the report says #2 cylinder misfiring. Changed plugs, wires and coil. Last step was to change the #2 fuel injector. I changed the 2nd injector from the left but I'm still getting the same message. I was wondering if maybe they aren't numbered that way. It's a 2004 Jetta with Car engine: 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V. Did I change the wrong injector?
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My Prius started shaking pretty bad when the ICE is running. This morning I got the codes read and it came as Cylinder #1 misfire. I figured the coil pack is going bad (as is known to happen) so I swapped #1 and #2. The misfiring actually got better for about 30 minutes, but it finally happened and the CEL flashed again.
So I took it to get the code read but he said the only code is still #1 misfire. Perhaps the ignition coil is OK then? I bought a new spark plug, maybe the plug has gone bad. The plugs only have 45k miles on them. I'll swap it out and see what happens. What I should do to diagnose the issue? It seems to be slowly getting better...this afternoon it was much better than this morning but still shaking sporadically.
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06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
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I have a 2009 Prius that I purchased 6 months ago and have been really happy with it until the last couple of months. As the weather is getting colder appears I have a misfiring problem on start-up
I have had this problem now for a little while and have been trying to get it understood before paying $$ at the dealer for "maybe" solutions.
It started as the weather got colder. Intermittently the check engine light would come on. Then after a few days would go off.
I have considered water in the line: fuel injection cleaner/antifreeze
I have considered bad gas in the tank: problem persists several fuel tanks later
I have recently purchased a trouble code reader/diagnostic that plugs into my laptop. Trouble code is p0301. Cylinder 1 misfire.
I have taken it in to the shop.They tried:
>>moving the ignitor coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4,
>>and also tried moving the spark plug from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2.
>>performed compression test. Ok
The dealer suggests replacing the injector line for $1400+.( They did this with warm engine. They have not diagnosed cold engine yet. That is new, read more,...) I still have 5K kilometers left on the power-train warranty. If it is power-train I would like it resolved before warranty expires.
Now. Some new info as of yesterday:
Up till now I was not using the diagnostic monitor real time. but that started yesterday,... Last night when I got home from work while the engine was still warm I connected the diagnostic monitor and went for a drive. Every few minutes I would pull over and refresh the cylinder misfiring data. I had hardly any misfires across all the cylinders at all. Maybe 1 or 2, here or there over the span of a 10 minute warm engine ride. Up and down hilly terrain. Nothing that came close to triggering the p0301 trouble code. I parked the car outside and let it rest overnight.
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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I have an 2006 f-150 King Ranch with 103k miles and it was misfiring and then stalling when stopping at lights. Both cam shaft sensors and all coil packs were relaced then it was still misfiring. The head was recently replaced and now they are waiting on a new computer. When it starts misfiring it vibrates the whole truck and the engine light flashes. If you turn the truck off then back on it will run fine for about 50 miles. Im worried that replacing the computer is not going to fix it, what else could it be?
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My 2004 f150 has always been great to me. all the way till now at 255k miles. My truck is misfiring really bad. Here are the codes I have :
P0506 low idle (because of the misfire)
P0356 ignition coil F (6) primary/ secondary circuit
P0308 Cylinder 8 misfire
P0174 system too lean (Bank 2, right side of engine)
p0316 misfire detected on startup
This problem happened 2 days ago. I reset the codes and they all come back together in 10 minutes. the misfire is very bad. I wonder why coil 6 has a fault code but number 8 has the misfire code.
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Had a misfire in cylinder 1 so I put new plugs and wires. Still misfired. Changed fuel injector. Still misfired. Changed ignition coil and misfire on cylinder 1 is gone now cylinder 2 and 3 are misfiring. I double checked wires and they are properly installed.
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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