Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Cylinder 5 Misfire - Spark Plug Replacement?
Mar 13, 2012
I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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Ok , i have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 GM 3.8, my car didnt have any misfires until after i changed my Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. After changing the gaskets and putting everything back together. The car ran fine. The next day i took it an hour and 30 min away, while driving there it started misfiring and shaking,rough idle at an hour into the trip. The check engine light went to blinking. The Next day i drove it all the way back home in the condition. Put code scanner to it, and received P0303 "Cylinder 3 Misfire":
So i automatically assumed it was the coil pack because i just installed new wires and plugs a week before changing Lower Intake manifold Gasket. Bought new coil pack. Still getting rough idle and P0303 code. So i decided to take a look at Cylinder 3 Spark plug and it was dry black, carbon fouled:
So went and bought new spark plug, installed it, started car and still rough idle and misfiring. Took the new spark plug out and it had been FOULED also ( DRY BLACK AGAIN). So i was told to switch a coil pack around. I did it and the started car, took away some of the rough idle, car actually wasn't misfring or shaking, would run smooth for about 5-8 seconds then start misfiring (Didn't that until i switch coil packs around).
Next Decided to pull out the rest of the plugs from the back and all of them were WET with GAS!! and 2 Spark plugs are just dry fouled!! (Cylinder 3, Cylinder 1). If I can figure this out i will fully have my car back to running correctly.
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Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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My '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
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2004 F150 XLT 5.4l (3v)... Problem started with misfire on No.4 and then I went through the tedious job of changing every plug (all 8 broke) and coils in an attempt to resolve the problem. After the changes I had misfire on no.1 and no.2, so I changed the injector on no.2 and coil on no.1 again + had broken pigtail wires on No.4 and No.1. Now I remain with a P0301 misfire on No.1. The problem won't go away, its fine idling, but misses bad when driving. The Snapon scanner reads fine for all injectors and compression reads ok also. The mechanics are baffled and what else could it be? (rail? computer? intake gasket?)
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OK, this technically isn't for the Ex (since it's a diesel), but I do need to replace the spark plugs in a Ford V8 soon. Problem is I've been running diesels for a long time and haven't really kept up with spark plugs.
Seems like there's lots to choose from now. Regular old fashioned, double tip, triple tip, platinum, kryptonite, thermo-nuclear tip, etc. Is one spark plug really any better than another, or is it all just marketing gimmicks? Is it worth spending extra for some fancy sounding spark plug?
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I have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
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My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
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I sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???
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I purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger last year. Within the first two months of ownership, the vehicle was having a cylinder 4 misfire. To fix it, I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires and cap - replacing the wires, plugs and cap fixed the issue. The issue went away for four months when cylinder 4 misfired again. I brought it to a repair shop and they again replaced the wires and plugs. The vehicle now has a cylinder 6 misfire.
There has to be something causing these plugs to continually go bad. Rather than just replacing the plugs again, I'd like to attempt to be proactive and fix the root of the issue. I've googled the issue and some of the forums seem to indicate a bad EGR valve.
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