Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - CEL Came On - Stalled And Won't Crank
Apr 28, 2017
I have a 2005 F150 5.4l. The CEL came on a couple days ago, but there were no driveability symptoms, and my code reader was 2 hours away, so I didn't pull the codes.
Today, I left for work and pulled onto the freeway, I went to pass a vehicle, and rolled on the throttle (maybe 60%) l and the truck fell flat. I backed out of the throttle, checked the gauges, all looked good, so I tried again. The second attempt ended the same as the first, it fell flat and felt much like a APP/TPS correlation/limp mode.
Before I had a chance to even think, it bucked a couple times and stalled (felt like running out of fuel). I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart. When the ignition is on, the dash lights come on as expected, when turned to the start position the relay under the dash clicks, but it doesn't crank, and the starter solenoid does not click.
I have checked the starter and PCM relays. Both are good. I have not disconnected the battery or started pulling fuses as I want to retrieve the codes first. I am able to turn the engine over with a pry bar.
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ford f 150 2005, engine wont crank over. Tried all these remedies but none of them work. [URL] .....
Here was the scenario: someone drove my truck in 4 low for a very long time.3 hrs doing over 80 km/h) When i drove the truck i could get it out of 4 low it is still in 4 low. But then the truck died on me.
The alternator pulley went on it. replaced the alternator then proceeded with the remedies from the link above.
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The other day my truck stalled out and wouldn't start so I had it towed to the shop, the shop tested the fuel pump but couldn't find anything and it fired up and ran fine for them. It ran fine for a day and now is running extremely rich. The only code it's throwing is P0452 which is for the evap system. I spent awhile searching but couldn't find any answer on it.
I couldn't find any loose connections in the harness or on top of the fuel tank, I had the classic FDPM issues before so I replaced that. I'm beyond frustrated with this hulk seems like once a month it wants to quit working.
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So I was driving home today, I had some issues a couple of weeks ago with it stalling in the rain, it was raining today. As I was driving, the truck dies and won't restart. It wasn't like it stalled, it was almost like someone shut it off. Then it wouldn't restart, and there is a clicking sound under the dash. I tried the battery pull and nothing. Ended up having it towed home.
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A friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
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Yesterday was driving my 2008 Prius (75K) down a paved road from a ski-hill (no snow/rain, perfect weather and completely dry road). Not hard driving, 20-30 mph some curves, very smooth road with no potholes, etc. Battery turned all green, its fan initiated and I also rolled back window during this 75 degF day (not unusual to have battery fan turn on in this condition, it's occured plenty of time before). Wasn't braking hard either. Out of know where, I first noticed upon slightly accelerating that I had no acceleration, like the hybrid had disengaged from the ICE, and then check engine, (!), red triangle, VSC light!! At this point, couldn't tell if car was on or off, the wheels disappeared from the main display, although the ICE/electric motors continued to show although there was a red warning top left corner.
It did scare the hell out of me going downhill with curves wondering if I was really still in control of the car. I pulled over as soon as I could maybe 1/2 mile downhill. I then shut car off, waiting maybe 1 minute, turned back on. The VSC cleared I believe, but all other lights continued on. Next, I only knew to drive it to the Toyota dealership. It was odd, as the Prius was now in some sort of weird, pseudo on-state. It had virtually no acceleration, maybe 40 mph after 1 mile and that was it. Drove it maybe 8 miles like this thru town in this pseudo on-state. Pulled into dealership. They pulled codes and found P0A1D-HYBRID POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE INFO 1 AND P3000-BATTERY CONTROL SYSTEM. They stated vehicle was found with problem with hybrid control ECU. They cleared the codes and test drove with no issue repeated. That's it. If it comes back I'm told I will need to replace hybrid control ECU.
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2008 F150 XLT 5.4L
1. Replaced fuse #9 for fuel pump.
2. Checked fuse #9 with check light, power to both sides is good
3. No check engine light
4. Battery is 1.5 years old. Just in case I charged for 1 hr.
5. Replaced fuel filter. Possible clog in fuel line.
6. Detached fuel line at fuel filter, turned key on and fuel came out of line. Seems like fuel pump is working.
7. Every time I can hear the fuel pump prim when I turn the key.
8. Relay#1 starter solenoid, I swapped with relay #2 and also replaced
9. FPDM replacement, I removed and it looked to be good.
10. Light checked all fuses, only fuse #5, fuse#35, and Fuse#36 did not have power. These fuses don't seem to have anything to do with starting or fuel to the engine.
11. Inertia switch check is good
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Went to leave this morning and my '05 with 135K would crank but not start. Pulled air cleaner and sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired some so I had a feeling it was fuel related. Reset the fuel cut-out with no luck. I then remember seeing the issues on the forum about the fuel pump driver module corrosion and failures. Bought a new one at the local dealer, installed it and it fired right up.
Pics below...from the side it didn't look to bad but was holed through on the bottom. I highly recommend replacing this if you live in the rust belt.
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I have an 06' F-150. Last monday went to start and wouldnt crank over. I have since replaced FPDM, a weak fuel pump, checked Fuel Inertia Switch and now that they are all replaced when I check codes it says "no data available". Pump will not come on. Fuses have been checked. I have traced this problem to everything I can think of. If my ECM is fried, why would it have worked fine before replacing FPDM? I am at a dead end. Mechanic is at a dead end.
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The truck seems to continue to crank sometimes even after I let the key go. Kinda like it's having a difficult time starting and NEEDS to be cranked a wee bit more and takes over for me. Is this an ignition issue that I can (need) to address or is it normal. I have ZERO experience with a newer vehicle nor a Ford truck.
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No crank with key, can jump and it will crank over, no Radio in RUN position, work fine in ASSy position. Engine will not spin over at all with key. Truck low miles like new, what gives? All fuses good and check a full 12volts on both sides. 2008 - 5.4 ....
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So I used my 07 F150 4x4 Lariat (5.4 l) yesterday and it ran with no problems. Today, I went to start it to go to work and it would crank over strong and fast but not run. I filled up two days ago and it has been below freezing the last couple of days. What to check as I currently have my wifes explorer for work tonight.
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I have a 04 heritage f-150, V6 I bought a month ago. Truck ran fine till tonight. Got in to start it, the engine started to crank and everything went dead except for a busing click some what like a turn signal. When I raised the hood the light weakly flashed in time with the buss. I checked the cables, clean and tight. The click came from the #2 ( I think) relay. I wiggled it and it stopped and the lights came back on but when I turned the lights on it all started again. The book says the #2 relay is for the PCM. Don't tell me the computer is out!
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I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
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...Battery is very weak also but had a couple questions...
I started by reading up on issue and 9 times out of 10 people were saying the fuel pump driver module causes the issue...
So I ordered a Dorman and plugged it in...I did not bolt it down...Just wanted to see if it would fix and nothing...
Now stuck on the starter...Top bolt is a huge nightmare.
Would a weak battery and bad starter cause theft light to flash or is my problem elsewhere?
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06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
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I changed the battery 6 months ago and twice it has failed to crank since. Is there something draining the battery?
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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I know this is a ford truck site but today I was trying to clean some corrosion off my battery post on my ford fusion with water. Well when I went to crank it up it was slow to crank and it has absolutely no power, won't rev at all. From what I already knew, it seems like some moisture got in the distributor cap. Am I right and if I am were can I find the dang thing and how can I fix it?
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2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
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