Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - All Door Speakers Stop Working Suddenly?
Jan 7, 2016
So I just replaced the stock head unit in my 2005 ford f150 with a brand new Sony one. Install went pretty smooth and I had every thing working pretty quick. So about an hour after the install I got in my truck to drive home and everything was working fine until about 5 minutes into driving all the door speakers just stopped working.
(Music was not blaring). Sub still works but that's it. No sound from the door speakers what so ever. I checked the fuse and the head unit. And all the fuses related to audio in the fuse box. Everything looks normal. Head unit powers on fine. Just no sound from any door speakers. The only thing that plays sound is the sub.
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Alright i have one here to stump everyone.... My uncle called me and his 05 f150 STX left speakers both front and back aren't working. I took a look at it the other day, i switched his radio with my radio from my 06 f150 stx, then I switched my front speaker out. Didn't work. I looked at his back speaker and the magnet on the speaker was stuck in the door. I checked fuses and don't see any blown.
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Installed Kenwood DDX7701HD unit and I have lost right side speakers. Used Metra Axxess TYTO-1 harness along with ASWC-1. Also had bad battery cell and replaced battery. I get plenty of sound from drivers area but when I adjust balance to right there is no sound at all there. At this point my ASWC-1 cycles through but isn't recognizing radio. That issue can wait unless it is part of this issue.
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I recently replaced my front door speakers in my 2005 RX330. Upon reassembling everything I had the following issues:
1) The front Passenger side window and rear seat windows would not roll down from the driver's side controls. This issue was resolved by going to each individual window control and rolling the window down halfway and then rolling them all the way up and continuing to press on the window control in the "Up" position for an additional 5 seconds or so.
2) My original Lexus key (non-remote) would work for staring the car, but it would no longer work to unlock the doors by inserting it into the Driver's side door lock and moving the key toward the front of the car.
3) In attempting to resolve issue #2, I disconnected the Car battery for a couple of hours and reconnected it, which leads me to my big problem(s). Now none of my windows will roll down from ANY window control (including the front door driver's window). In addition, the doors can only be locked/unlocked from the Lexus Key Remote or from the front Passenger door lock control.
I have checked all fuses that I could get to (under the hood and under the drivers side dash panel) but I still cannot get the windows or door locks to function normally. I could not get to one big blue fuse under the dash panel right next to the fusebox that I believe is related to the power windows. I am not sure if it also fuses the sunroof, which DOES function. I pulled the Negative Battery cable off a second time and did another reset but to no avail.
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Okay so my 04 f150 has all of a sudden decided to stop showing the compass and odometer. At first they started to blink then it went out.
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I was on my way home from work when my speakers suddenly stopped working. I tried changing stations and switching to CDs, but sound still refused to play. My head unit works perfectly fine. Every 5 minutes or so if the radio is left on, sound will come from the speakers on the right side of the car, but only for roughly 5 seconds before the sound disappears again. When this happens, the volume knob does not work and the sound cannot be turned down.
I have checked all three fuse boxes and nothing seems to be wrong. I have also checked behind the head unit and there are no problems as far as wiring is concerned. Is it possible that my amp just needs replaced, or is there something else that could have gone wrong?
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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Cruise control not working all of the sudden - This happened to me, and a web search led to a quick solution, would be the first place to check if you have the problem.
Turns out that if the third brake light (back of the cab) goes out, so does the cruise control. Don't know why. I replaced the bulb, and cruise works. I was fortunate that this super cheap fix worked for me. If your cruise control stops turning on, check that cheap little bulb!
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Recently the key chime will not stop when I remove the ignition key. It doesn't do it all the time but is getting more frequent. Usually I can reinsert the key and remove it once or twice and it will stop . How to remedy this issue? Is there something inside the ignition that can be repaired or am I looking at replacing the entire thing?
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Door speakers work for a few seconds when the stereo is turned on, but the door volume is just a bit lower than the front speakers. Then the door speakers stop sounding while the other car speakers continue. How can the intermittent door speaker function be corrected?
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I just purchased a new to me 05.
PO, had a pioneer H/U installed, however the 4 rear speakers have no sound.
The rear of the radio seems to have everything plugged into it correctly.
My steering wheel controls work fine.
I'm guessing the rear volume/controller is canceling out the rear speakers???
If so what can I do to make the speakers play? I don't need the rear control to work.
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This spring I installed a Ford OEM limited slip unit in my 05 F 150. Recently I notice a brief, intermittent shudder when turning right or left from a stop sign. Does not do it all the time. I don't notice this any other time. The Valvoline synthetic oil I used said the Ford additive was not needed. Is this the "nature of the beast", should I be concerned, should I put the additive in anyway?
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So long story short. I have 2010 Prius package V, JBL. Recently 2 of front driver side speakers stop working(1 on dash,1 on door) only when I listen to radio and stream music from my iphone. I played with the L/R F/R balance and made sure about it. However when I got phone call and using navigation guidance voice it works no problem.
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I have a 2008 Camry LE with the JBL system, the door speakers are blown and I can't find anything that meets the specs. They are 6x9 2 ohm, I'm not sure what the depth is, but I know it's less than most aftermarket speakers. I would probably also need an adapter to make it fit on the OEM mount.
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2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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Bought an 05 FX4 SuperCab in May - been in shop twice for a "clunking" sound when accelerating from a dead stop. Dealer says it's "operating as intended" and that no damage was being if I continue to drive. I thought it was a rear problem with the limited slip. Dealer says it's the tranny and that Ford is looking into the problem (apparently quite a few are coming back). She runs smooth and shifts fine once she gets going. Just starting from a complete stop feels painfully wrong.
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Truck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
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I have a 2008 F150 Super Crew 4x4 when you press the unlock button on the remote all the doors unlock, it use to be one push for drivers door and two would unlock all doors. I think the problem started after I had the battery changed out, how to get it back to one push for drivers door only?
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i have a lexus gs430 model 2008 , one day i started the car and noticed that the speakers not working at all ! not for seat belt alarm , not for the day date , not for radio , cd player , nav , also when i rise the volume up the volume number indicator do not appear on screen . before this situation the speakers were working perfectly fine .
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2005 F-150 5.4L RWD
I purchased this truck about 2 years ago, with about 70k miles. Previous owner had transmission work done, but I'm not sure if it was a rebuild, new, or refurbished. About 8 months ago I experienced hesitation, and frequent stalling when coming to a stop. Pulled the engine codes, and they said it was throttle body related. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body assembly inside, with the battery disconnected, went through the idle re-learn process, and it drove fine for a few days. Took it into the shop, and they did a tune up and replaced several plugs and coils. Since then, it's run great.
A couple of weeks ago, a whining/buzzing noise was coming from the engine compartment, getting much louder as RPMs increased. Got the oil changed a week ago (it was overdue), and the tech at the quick lube shop said the noise was from the drive pulley(s), and that they should be replaced.
Today, I was waiting for the parking lot at work to open, sitting in park. I quickly switched to Drive, and the trans didn't seem to engage (Auto Trans). The engine revved, I let off the gas, and it then engaged and I scooted into a parking spot. After work, on the way home, there were similar issues at the beginning of the drive, mainly when slowing down/stopping/down-shifting. Most of the drive was on hwy, and I managed to get by okay going around 60 mph, with some spikes in RPM's occasionally when I would accelerate (no Tach, so I'm going by sound). Half way home on the high way, the O/D Off light starting quickly blinking, and the odometer screen read "TRANS FAULT". I managed to make it off of the highway, and stopped at the first red light, where the engine stalled. Turned it back on, put it in gear, and it drove fine for about 5-10 minutes on back roads, with no lights/notices. The last 2 miles home I experienced a lot of slipping, and high revs. When I backed into my parking spot, there was noticeable leaking... Trans fluid was leaking fairly quickly. I hadn't noticed any trans fluid leaking before today... I went out to run the engine and take a short trip to warm up the fluid to get a reading, but it wouldn't engage in Forward or Reverse at all. Pulled the dipstick out, while "cold", and there was nothing... I'm assuming that it's drained drastically, and is extremely low or gone.
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