Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Adding Exhaust - Stuck Between MBRP And Magnaflow?
Apr 19, 2012
I am looking to add a new exhaust to my 05 F150 SuperCrew and am stuck between an MBRP and Magnaflow. I think I want to go with a S.I/D.O setup. Any opinions on either brand or are they basically the same?
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Replacing their stock muffler with a Magnaflow and kept the rest of the exhast system stock? How does it sound? Any performance gains?
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I'm trying to figure out how / if cruise control can be added to a 2005 F150 with the 4.2L V6. I bought an aftermarket kit, popped the hood, and then learned all about electronic throttles . What (aside from adding the cruise control switches) do you have to do?
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I just got this truck with the plow installed so I'm not sure what kind of adjustments are available for the plow itself. If I add a 3-4" lift, will the plow still reach the ground and work OK? What kind of adjustments would need to be made?
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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Just put a dual flowmaster exhaust on my truck, a week later my engine light came on. I also smell a sulfer smell and the truck seems to sutter when in gear at a stop, and also hard to start at times. What this could be!
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I have a 2005 F150 4X4, has 43,000 easy miles on it. When I started the truck I notices white smoke come fron the exhaust. It was a cool morning and the truck was sat for 24 hours, I have read some post about how that could be the reason. I was also told that adding a quart of lucas in place of one of the (motorcraft synthetic) quarts.
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Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
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Well I believe I finally had the opportunity to experience the wide open injector issue. I was driving to work and all of a sudden at a stop light my truck started shaking bad. It went away but as I took off every so often it would shake. I thought it was a tire or front end component so I pulled over and just got overwhelmed with the smell of gas. I drove 30 miles back home and check engine light blinked the whole way and truck ran . Also wasted at least a 1/4 tank of gas and the a/c wouldn't blow cold air either. Hooked it up to read DTC codes and got P0172, P0300, P0303, P0304, P0316 and P2196.
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My truck gear shift is stuck in Park (console type). I have been reading threads that discuss potential causes such as blown fuses, bad brake switch, bad brake shift interlock actuator, and even ignition switch. All fuses are okay. Before I try to get into all the other possibilities, I have a question around what the local auto parts worker suggested. He said that there is a small plastic piece that may have slipped down interfering with gear movement. This could make sense, especially since the white manual release lever doesn't seem to be moving.
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I have noticed a lot of things on the web on modules that promise increased MPG and power by adding a resistor on the IAT sensor. As much as I like the idea of increased MPG and power for cheap, if it doesn't work, I don't want to waste my time. So, what is the consensus on this type of modification? Will this mod be effective or only be a waste of time?
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How hard are they to put on, and who makes the best one? I was told about hell bent steel, but I am not sure? I got an 04 Ford F150 looking to level it out...
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I would like to add the stereo controls to my steering wheel. From what I gathered it can be done by just buying the buttons and the taking it to the stealership to flash the computer to get them to work? BTW This is on my 06 XLT Scab.
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I have a F-150 5.4 automattic 07 model and I need to add some tranny oil,I can't see on dipstick or in book what oil I need,(4) (5)??? I still can't see any markings on dipstick, where would I see a 4 or 5 on dipstick??
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For our new pontoon with surge brakes I need to add reverse lights to the wiring harness to deactivate the surge brakes while backing up. What is the proper way of doing this? BTW this is on an 06 F150 XLT with factory 7 pin harness.
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Looking to put dual exhaust on my 2010 F150. Which muffler. Flowmax or Magnaflow. Do not want it very load. Looking a little smooth churn like the Mustang. As you know ford is very distinctive and I want it to be heard to some degree.
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I know some of you can't get your truck loud enough and like to scare children and want everyone to look, but I like comfort and quiet. I'd prefer the stock exhaust and I may find one if I can't get mine quieted down but first I'd like to see if I can. The 4" MBRP exhaust was on the truck when I bought it. The thing was straight piped and I added the 30" muffler. Worked immensely but it's still too loud in the cab and there's droning at certain rpm.
Not a big deal on short drives but we use the truck for hauling and towing on long trips and that's when it becomes annoying. It looks like there's enough room for another muffler to easily fit (CC SB). Or I've thought about removing the MBRP muffler completely and putting on one of those crazy long Donaldson mufflers. Think a 2nd muffler would do much at all? Or get one long muffler?
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I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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My 2004 Prius with 224k miles is throwing a P0080 code (exhaust valve solenoid stuck high). So, I brought it to the dealer. They just called me saying that the main battery needs to be replaced. My battery graph shows that it's ok and the hybrid functionality works flawlessly.
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My main problem right now is that i am stuck in 4x4 low. Organically (should have left it at this) my truck would not do anything, no 4x4 high or low lights when i turned the switch.(lights worked when truck is first turned on) I researched it on the net and came across the idea to tap the Transfer Case Motor. I did this and my truck locked in 4x4 low and would not come out. I kept tapping on it while someone turned the dash switch and nothing, so i ordered a new(rebuilt) motor (160.00!!)
I got the new motor today and while installing it (I replaced the 2 speed wires) i turned the switch and it went in 4x4 high but i put it back in 4x4 low in order to bolt the motor to the transfer case. After I bolted it on, I tried to take it out of 4 low (in neutral and foot on brake) and it would not disengage. My front hubs will not lock, i am going to get on this after i get it out of 4x4 low(take it to a friends shop so i can lift front end up etc.) I have recently replaced the iwe solenoid on the passenger side firewall.
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All I did was cut off the straight section of tailpipe and install a 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet exhaust tip. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and a little louder when I rev it, but when I let off the gas it pops pretty loud.
I remember hearing popping on decel on videos of trucks where aftermarket exhaust/mufflers were installed, but not just from a new tip.
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