Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 4.6L - Removal Of Oil Pan?
Feb 20, 2016
2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
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My uncle has an 05 F150 extended cab. When he bought it he put his license plate in the rear window until he could get some bolts for it. When it was there it fell between the back of the rear seat and the back of the cab. Currently he has one plate on the rear, but is worried he will get stopped for not having a front plate installed. So he knew I am an FTE member and I could find out how to remove the seat back. I have not tried to remove it nor seen if I could reach it.
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Is it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
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Whats the process on removing the projector hid lightbulb that has burned out its a 6000K?
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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I want to remove my wiper cowl and paint it satin black to get rid of the ugly fade. Just want to know, is the cowl just held on by clips all the way around that you just pull up on and pop out?
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Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
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I have a 2006 f 150 5.4 ... Changed out all spark plugs, Never had a CEL since new. I disconnected the Battery, Removed the PCM (clearance problem)replaced the plugs, (of course broke 1) replaced PCM, hooked up battery. Truck runs smooth as can be. CEL is now on steady. Could this have happened because of PCM removal? Heard about flashing PCM? Or should i bring it to Auto zone for code reading?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
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I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
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2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
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I have Rx 330 2005 AWD, recently we dont have winters, so I don't need 4x4 . Is it possible to drive without the back drive shaft? It very easy to remove it, but is it save for e.g. differential or other mechanisms? By the way I could reduce fuel consumption, I think, 18miles/gallon is really too much for polish realities.
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My 2005 SuperCab 5.4 4x4 won't go into 4wd...I turn it on and nothing! No light, no clunk, nothing! (No 4Low either). I checked all the related fuses and relay fuses behind the passenger kick panel, and they are all fine. I don't do any off roading, nor have I ran anything over. The truck only has 20,000 miles on it.
I did have the brake booster hose recall a couple years ago, so I'm going to crawl under to see perhaps the technician didn't click a harness back together or something.
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I recently replaced the power steering pump and both lines but I just can't seem to get the air out of the system.
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2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
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I've got a 2005 F-150 (5.4 triton) with about 35k miles that I rarely use in 4x4 mode. The other day, after stopping to fill up with gas, the truck 4x4 Lo light was on after starting it. The dashboard switch was still in 2H mode as I never switched it. I first thought that the dashboard light might be in error, but when I began to pull out of the gas station. the truck was in fact in 4x4 Lo. I had forgotten how to cycle it back to 2H so I slowly drove about 3 miles home at 20 mph.
Once home, I re-read the tranny sync sequence and managed to get back to 4x2. I called the dealer who never heard of a truck getting into that Lo mode w/o activating the switch and suggested that I just monitor it. I read a number of forum threads discussing the IWE and solenoid problems, but all of those threads dealt with issues of not being able to get too 4x4 mode. My biggest concern is that I leave in a month for a 2000 mile trip, towing a cargo trailer and I'd hate to inadvertently switch into 4/4 when traveling 60 mpg on a highway.
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I have a 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 that doesn't always start. I've been having this problem for over a year now.
Sometimes it will start, but sometimes it won't. Seems about every other, or perhaps every 3 days it just will not start. Then, if I wait a few hours, it'll start.
I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump driver module, starter and the battery. None of this has seemed to effect it.
Lately I've found out that if I put the truck in neutral, then while cranking I go to park (going through reverse) it will start. Sometimes not on the first try, but after a few attempts it will start.
It should also be noted that when it does start, often it'll make some loud noise RIGHT before it starts up. Sounds kind of like the starter grinding. If it doesn't make the grind noise, the other thing it may do is all the lights and everything turn off for an instant (half a second) then come back on and start.
I'm really lost as to what to do. I've been thinking that it may be the transmission range sensor, but I really don't know. I don't want to keep spending money replacing random parts, in hopes of fixing it. I'm on the 3rd starter, because of all the cranking I have to do when it doesn't start.
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