My 01 f150 keeps blowing a fuse. It makes the O.D. light flash, only have 2nd gear, motor runs real bad. I forget how many codes it had but it was a bunch. It doesn't blow the fuse rite away. Sometimes its days between sometimes its hours. Where to start looking for the short?
View 8 RepliesWhy the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
View 7 RepliesI am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 with @175K miles. Replaced the clutch about a year ago, replaced the front calipers a few weeks ago, due to the right front locking up on my way home from work. Since then, when I try to start, it blows the fuel pump fuse. (#10)...
View 2 Replies2002 F150 5.4L. Keeps blowing fuse in location #30 which is a 30a fuse for the following:
Passive anti theft transceiver
Cluster
Ignition Coils
Powertrain control module relay
Coil on plugs
Radio noise capacitor
ECC diode
Could this be a grounding spark plug wire?
My 2002 f150 blows the overdrive fuse (#29) every time the overdrive tries to engage. Could it be the overdrive switch? Where is that switch? Could it be a speed sensor? Truck has an automatic transmission and a 5.4 engine.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 f-150 looking for answers to my problem automatic transmission my overdrive fuse keeps blowing. My third and and overdrive don't work. It shifts 1st to second but that is it. No other fuses are blowing.
View 3 RepliesI own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
I have a 96 Ford f super duty with a 7.5l and E40d after about 30minutes of driving O/D light will flash but still operate in all gears. Pulled codes and got 628 excessive converter clutch slippage and 657 fluid over heated. Now I have not felt a shudder which would indicate slippage like my 91 ford E40d does on lockup. And the temp never got above 210 until the light started flashing or I came to a stop. and front seal leaks also which in a tsb a read of another forum claimed that leaks can cause that code. I have already replaced solenoid pack after it got fried when the problem started last Monday...
View 14 RepliesI bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
I was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
So I pulled into my driveway yesterday about 5 minutes after my low fuel light came on and as I was making the final turn around my house the engine cut off. Luckily I was able to park in it's normal spot before coming to a halt.
Anyway at first I though "out of gas" even though I knew I'd driven further with the light on. After putting in 3 gallons still no luck. I noticed with the key on no noise from the fuel pump so I checked the fuse and relay both were fine. I then checked all the other fuses and noticed the large 30amp PCM fuse under the hood was blown.
When I replaced it, it blew instantly. I was able to hear the fuel pump come on for a brief second before it blew out. Unsure if the two were related I then pulled the Fuel Pump fuse and replaced the PCM fuse one more time and again it blew. The motor cranks over but won't fire (not getting fuel.) Where I can start to correct the issue.
I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 03 explorer with a 4.0 and it seems the fuse keeps blowing out, I have to keep replacing the fuse every time for the gadgets on the instrument cluster. Could there be short somewhere?
View 7 Replies2006 F-250 SD... I Keep popping the 15A #17 fuse under certain conditions - Driving forward
1. Start with good fuse.
2. Start engine, while in park, turn on parking light...4.8A on circuit. No problems.
3. Put into reverse and drive. down the block around the corner and back up to the house... No problem. 4.8A on circuit.
Put the shifter into drive and - POP - the fuse goes. I never see a jump in the current. 1-5 seconds until fuse goes. While conducting testing, I have had the fuse blow when shifting from reverse to park. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see a common wire that would cause a short when shifting. What I should try next?
I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
View 2 Repliesi have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
View 14 RepliesEvery time that I hit the brakes, the headlights flash and the horn blows for about 30 seconds. I am guessing that it has something to do with the factory alarm? I do not have a key pad. It is a 1997 F-150.
View 3 Replies2000 F-150 5.4 scab 4x4
Every light on my overhead display would flash on and off randomly. I pulled it and one 510 was dangling and the other fell off when I touched it. They have been properly re-soldered. It still doesn't work after re-solder. I am trying to figure out which wire is the power and which is ground so I can test if power is getting to the board.
There are 6 wires. On one side is blue w/orange stripe, gray w/ black stripe, and white w/ blue stripe. The other side is pink w/ black stripe, blue w/ red stripe, and black w/ blue stripe. The fuse that the overhead console is on isn't blown since my 4x4 and abs is working.
I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?