Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: E-Brake Cable Pulled Through Backing Plate
Oct 23, 2013
I replaced the driver's side e-brake cable on my 99 F150 due to the cable pulling through the backing plate (I think the backing plate hole either wore or rusted out bigger). The new cable is doing the same thing and now I cannot drive because if you depress the e-brake one time, the cable gets pulled through the hole, then since it won't come back out of the hole, pushes the brake shoe against the drum and, thus, drag. I was thinking of trying to find a C clip to hold the cable out but it's iffy at best.
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I'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
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So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
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I got a 97 F250 4x4 w/ 4.6 lt. motor & auto trans. The engine is leaking oil. It looks to be coming from a set of hoses that are on the adaptor that is between the oil filter & the engine block. Also what are the oil lines called? It is leaking motor oil not transmission oil.
Also just pulled my oil dip stick & the whole thing (dip stick & the tube) came off the truck. Seems the tube has rotted away at the oil pan. Is this also a job I can do?
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I have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
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I had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
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My wifes 01 Supercrew had the tailgate cable pop off the other day- it came unscrewed from the tailgate. I went to screw it back in, but there is nothing to screw it into. Whatever was there to accept the bolt is gone. There seems to be an access panel on the tailgate (appx. 48 x 8) that I cant seem to get off- it like its being held in place from inside but I cant see how. I slightly bent up the panel trying to remove it, then lightly tapped it back in place- now I have a ding on the outside finish. So, what was in there to hold the bolt, can I just use a regular nut with a washer if I can get my fingers in there, and whats with the access door ?
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I busted the cable end by not removing it properly. My question is what is the proper method of remove the cable from the throttle body? Are the cable ends replaceable? If so who has them as a google search didn't find any? I've tried to find written information but haven't any luck. bl2009
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I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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I recently broke my rear shock mount plate, it is rusted to crap. So I need to fix it, I was gonna weld it but there isn't enough metal to weld. It looks like it can bolt in bolt out. I am having trouble find a replacement.
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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
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So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
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I'm really not liking my carpet after 174k miles. I wanted to replace it with a vinyl one from rockauto. I've seen some trucks that had their carpet replaced with diamond plate, 1998 F150 Supercab. Unbolting the seats & bench and removing the carpet should be no problem for me, but the fabrication of the diamond plate floor seems to be difficult.
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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Is the brake light supposed to come on when the E-brake is depressed? It's not right now, bulb?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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When I set the parking brake last night, there was a loud pop and the pedal suddenly went soft to the floor and would not spring back when I pulled the release. The pedal doesn't spring back up when I pull the release lever, but I was able to pull it back up by hand to get the dash light to go out. That works, but without the tension from the brake cable the pedal works back down and the dash light comes on.
When I got out of the driver's seat, there was a cable laying on the ground right under the front door. The cable snapped right in front of a metal cable joiner. What is involved in fixing this?
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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