Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Won't Start When Hot Unless Gas Pedal Depressed
Oct 29, 2013
I have a 1997 f-150 V6 4.2L 2WD. I've been noticing a few symptoms going on and aren't sure if they're related or not. Firstly, I hooked my code reader to the truck and I have P0453 DTC active: Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input. As far as symptoms, truck runs overall pretty well. However, if I shut off the truck after running for awhile and then immediate attempt to start it back up, the starter will spin the flywheel but it won't ignite unless I apply pressure to the gas pedal.
Again, this is only when it's hot. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have 35 psi when running, and seeing as how I don't really have any other fuel-related issues going on (aside from the DTC, which I'm unfamiliar with, so it may be related??), so I don't think it's a fuel pump or anything issue. Maybe an issue with the TPS? I work on diesel trucks so throttle body systems are foreign and strange to me.
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While driving 50MPH one day the car suddenly started making a very noisy, loud sound and would not accelerate when the gas pedal was depressed. I put the car in neutral and pulled off the road. The engine is running great but the gears are now all screwwy. R = neutral, and all other positions "N D 3 2 1" go forward. I put the car into one of the forward gears and it moves, but only about 20 feet before it ceases to move without a LOT of gas, then it is only 1-2 MPH.
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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I have a 2003 Passat GLX 4Motion that was fine Monday...Having heavy rain Monday and with brake pedal depressed unable to get out of park..I have brake lights but when I got into car and started it I have airbag light and esp light on as well as check engine light...Is there a way to by pass the shift lock solenoid so I can move car into my garage...
I cleaned connections as was suggested and had a tough time as Bentley Manual states to remove console one must put lever into 3 which as lever is stuck in PARK was impossible...I tried pulling out the shift knob button as described and when I still couldn't get any response found that when I pushed the button back in that I was finally able to get shift lever to respond and finally come out of park...
I now get code for no TCM Signal P1626 No Powertrain Data Bus Signal Missing Message from TCM which now triggers ABS , Airbag ,ESP , and Check Engine light all with the cause no TCM Signal .... Now wondering if any easy way to test for data bus signal ?
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I have a 99 F150, Regular cab, long bed, with a weird brake problem. With the engine off, the pedal goes firm about 3 inches. But when you start it, the pedal goes to the floor.
I've replaced the master cylinder, and bled the heck out of the 4 wheel cylinders. No soap. The pedal goes nearly to the floor, and does not "pump up".....but does stop the truck.
The ABS light is "on".
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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Is the brake light supposed to come on when the E-brake is depressed? It's not right now, bulb?
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
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Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
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Brake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
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2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
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I just changed the rear rotors and pads on a 2010. Mileage is 145,000, owned since new. It seems the ASC/TRAC light now flashes when pedal is depressed (put car in drive in garage - depress pedal - one beep and light flashes). I had trouble with one of the the caliper pistions, and screwed it all the way out and lost 1/2 teaspoon of brake fluid, so I may have introduced air into the line. Would this cause this? Is there anything unusual about bleeding brakes (as compared to non-regenerative braking cars)?
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But when I take my foot off the brake pedal , its just seems rather noisy (clunky). As if VW forgot to put some rubber or something to prevent this clunky sound. (it just sounds cheap)
My jetta and tiguan never seemed like this. Have to stick my head under there and see whats up
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I have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
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My car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
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I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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We purchased the vehicle (2013 GX460) in September 2012, and had the car for 6 weeks before my wife was hit by an oncoming car who missed a stop sign. 8 weeks later and 23k of repairable damage to driver fender, front bumper, grille, hood, frame, and all components within those major areas, we received our vehicle.
The vehicle is wonderful and a joy to drive. When the brake pedal is depressed at low speeds (i.e., maneuvering in parking lot, entering driveway), there is a slight vibration to the pedal (similar to the vibration from a cell phone) and a noise that suggests an electric motor is working. The vibration is not like ABS; ABS is a profound vibration. The vibration we experience is very slight. The vibration is not apparent at highway speeds.
I do not recall either the vibration or the noise prior to the accident, and I suspect that this is a result from the accident or from the repairs. I have already brought the GX back to the dealer for this problem and they were quick to dismiss it, but I am really concerned that this is a real problem, and I want the dealer to re-assess.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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