Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Won't Move Forward After Slowing?
Aug 16, 2014
1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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I am noticing a snap noise that occurs only when I move forward after backing up and braking. I'm thinking it could be either a rear drum not releasing, bad U-joint, or something in the rear end. How do I isolate the cause?
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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The truck is a 2002 f150 4x4 5.4l... I was driving down the free way last night in 2wd doing about 90kpm when there was a loud bang like a ran over something. Speedo went to zero and abs light came on. Pulled over and shut it down. Crawled underneath to check so damage and couldn't see anything. Stared it back up put it in drive and it just revs. No forward gears or reverse. Fluid level is good, bright pink. Dropped the transmission pan, pan is clean and magnet has next to nothing on it.
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I have a F150, 2nd 4.6, 122,000 miles. No forward gears. When put in drive, you can feel it trying to engage, but doesn't engage completely. Reverse is a solid engagement. Replaced filter and fluid, same issue.
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I have a '98 Expedition with 170k, 4WD, 5.4 and auto trans.
I drove me truck home about 15 miles and sat idled for 15 minutes while on the phone. The truck started running rough all of a sudden and then died. I tried to restart it and would crank over, but not ignite. I thought fuel pump, grabbed a can of starting fluid and eventually fired up, but was huffing white smoke. After about 3 minutes, it sat there and purred. No problem, right?....
I dropped it in reverse to back into the driveway, when I put it in drive.....nothing, no forward gears now..? It will start up and run now, but still no forward gears. I have a leaky heater core, but rarely have to add water......and no milkshake in the oil.
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My speedometer has not been working for months now and it really hasn't bothered me as I go by RPMs, but I am going to make a long trip in a few weeks and I wanted to try to get this fixed.
The speedometer flips over to 100 mph and rest on the opposite side as it should. When I accelerate it does not move until I get over about 35 mph where it will then flip to 86 mph. It will slowly move to 82 mph as I accelerate up until 75, where it will then no longer change. Every once in a while it will start working when I start the truck up, or when I am driving down the road. It has before, within a 30 minute time frame, started working and stopped working 6 times. Currently my ABS light is on, but it has been on long before this started occurring. Every other gauge on my dash works.
I drive a 5 speed manual V6 2003 Ford F150.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
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I have been looking around on here for an answer and I can't find exactly what I am looking for. My key is worn down and will not easily move. My spare key is like new and works great. I have a spare that doesn't have a chip in it and it will turn over the engine but not fire it up. Even with the old key and the non chip key touching together at the switch, the truck will not fire up. How does this set up work and can I remove the chip from the old key and attach it to the no chip key.
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Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
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2000 ranger v6 automatic trans electronic 4wd shift on the dash. Plowing snow all of the sudden lost both forward and reverse never slipped or made any noise. Transmission fluid is fine to the level and clean. Put in drive nothing and reverse nothing put it back in park you can hear the park paul trying to click in. Towed it back to the shop thinking maybe the transfer case was junk. Decided to check the actuator on the transfer case no power going to it, go back to the switch no power there either check the fuses both are good and have power. The question i have is could a bad GEM module cause all this? ps the windshield wipers do work.
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I bought my wife a 2010 Explorer a couple years ago, nice car but when it gets to 0 or -0 it wont move. After idling for an hour and some persuasion with the throttle it will lunge forward and then there is no issue until it is shut off and cooled down again. I'm wondering if there could be water in the tranny and its freezing but there is no way to check it.
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Why I am getting such terrible gas mileage? The truck refuses to move off of 12 mpg. I made a 500 mile trip half of it at 70 mph running 2100 rpm. And when I filled up I calculated out 11.3 mpg. After that fill up hopped on the interstate and was running around 85 @ 2600 rpm expecting my mileage to drop even lower. Then i was on two lane hwy again constantly passing people and it only dropped to 11.1 mpg. Now no matter how easy I drive or how hard I drive it will not move over 12 mpg. Whether the tank is 100% hwy or 50/50. Its a 5 spd manual 4x4 with no modifications running the 4.6 v8. I just swapped air filters to a K&N and still no change.
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I intended to purchase a 1997 F150 4x4 today and found that the manual transfer case lever will not move at all. I have read the manual and it seems simple to move from 2H to 4H (at stop of up to 55mph). No movement in the lever at all. Owner said he never uses it and has no idea what is wrong.
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What should the idle be at for a 2004 f150 fx4. When I first start the stuck it jumps to about 1200 or so and then after a few seconds settles at about 500 and stays there at all stops. It seems to be smooth but when I let go of the brake, the truck doesn't really want to move forward. It is a crew cab so I know there is some weight there. If anything is wrong, what are some possible fixes.
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I have had very few automatic transmissions in my lifetime, so I know less than I suppose I should. This one's a C-6. When I start the engine in the morning, shifter in the Park position, I often feel a very slight, very short tendency for the van to try to move forward. Why?
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