Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Wiring Diagram For 4R70W?
Aug 6, 2012
Anyway, I'm gimped in my left shoulder for a while and I'm trying to do what i can with my 03 F150 Supercrew /4bt Cummins conversion. I am using a Dodge 47rh tranny and need to know the wiring for the 4R70W so I can hook up my 12 + ignition wire, back-up lights and neutral safety switch. I'd like to build my wiring harness.
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Got myself a brand new old truck. No radio and all the wires had been cut. I just printed of a wiring diagram from web and went to work I am now on my second one and it has the same colors for two different speakers!! The first one was completely wrong. Looking for a good wiring diagram for a 97 f250 super cab.
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I am trying to add a keyless entry to the already equip, power door locks but am having problems figuring the wiring schematic
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I just bought a 2000 Excursion limited v10 4x4. I'm going camping this weekend so trying to install my brake controller. I found the plug but noticed these wires dangling. I can't see the back of the harness. I'm afraid the PO may have cut them to install a universal harness. How to recognize them? I don't want to buy a ford specific harness if the wiring has been cut.
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I am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
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Where I can get a radio wiring diagram for 2003 F250 Crew Cab?
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
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99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
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here is the full story. just gotten truck out of the shop for a lower end rebuild and diff rebuild, truck set for about 5 to 6 months with no battery or motor. Engine runs great! besides a P1000 code.
I can drive down the road and can't go no faster then about 40mph without going to or over 3grand on the tac. I took it to auto parts store and gotten codes for both shift sol. and found out that the internal wiring harness was bad, and replaced it today. and cleared the codes. left parts store truck went shifted to 2nd and started to seem like it was going to go into 3rd then the rpm's went up like I was getting on the pedal when I wasn't and now it is going the same thing again. but took it back to parts store and checked for any codes and just got P1000 code and code about my speed sensors but they have been bad for a while.
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My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
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Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I can't find a wiring diagram for the UVCH pigtail anywhere. The one that came with the harness assumes the old one was still connected. My wires were burned through and I need to know what colors to wire in from the truck to the new harness so everything matches up.
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I am looking at putting a couple small LEDs in the pinch weld area under the doors on the cab. I want to have them come on when I open up a door. Where is the best place to grab power from the door switch circuit for that? The passenger side I was thinking of grabbing it where it goes into the sleeve between the cab and the door, but on the drivers side there are a lot of things in the way to get to that point. Can I pick it up down in the door jamb area? Is there a wire going to the dome light there?
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I'm working on a truck for a friend's mother and all of the tests that I've done point to the fuel pump. However, to make sure the pump is getting voltage past the large connector block under the cab, I would like to do a pin-out test before I pull the tank (or the bed). The pump will not run/prime in KOEO test, the relay is good, as are all of the fuses and the inertia switch.
Looking for a wiring diagram handy for this purpose? I've look all over this forum and searched quite extensively and I haven't found one for this year. Since it isn't my truck, I don't feel like purchasing a manual. I'm working on a 2003 3.0 2WD Auto.
If a wiring diagram isn't available, what colors are the wires going to the fuel pump? That way I can at least test the ground and the positive.
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I have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
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Got a 2002 7.3 f550 and the other morning it wouldn't go into high idle. Noticed my parking brake light was off. Messed with the switch and eventually jumped straight from the connector to ground... still no light. The light does illuminate with key on. I have tested the fuses. Where do I go from here? Looking for a wiring diagram....
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Any pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
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I have a new to me 1999 F250 with the 7.3 engine. The previous owner installed a push button start to get around the ignition actuator being broke. Over the weekend I pulled the column and replaced the actuator but the truck will still not start with the key; with the push button it starts just fine. I'm not getting any power on the starter relay signal wire, so I suspect something in between the key and starter relay. I searched around a bit, but could not find a wiring diagram for a 1999 diesel super duty.
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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