Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Wheel Bearing Play / Clunking Or Sounds Like Something Mechanical Shifting
Feb 13, 2016
I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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I was warming my truck up this morning and I turned my wipers on to get the bit of snow on my windshield off. The wipers moved a few inches, stopped, and a mechanical buzzing noise is coming from under the wipers. I can move the wipers with my hand and they'll go all the way up and return to the bottom, but do the exact same thing when they move again. I searched the forum but can't find anything about the wiper problem I'm having. I also see a lot of discussion about GEM in relation to wipers...
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
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I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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My wife's Explorer 4x4 has a noise in the front at around 100km/h. It is not detectable below 90km/h. Its not noticeable from a standstill until around 100, then you hear it a little. I find I can make it more noticeable if I vary my speed from 110 to 105 up and down, then its easier to hear. Once you get below 90 km/h you cant hear it at all.
I have a broken leg right now, and I normally do ALL my own work so I'm a little-limited mobility wise at the moment.
I'm suspecting a wheel bearing. I put the Explorer in the garage and my son jack up both wheels on the drivers side. I started the engine and SLOWLY accelerated up through the gears to 100. I know the hazards with this as I've done it with other vehicles, but this was the first 4x4. Then we jacked up the passenger side (after lowering the drivers side) and did the same thing. I could slightly hear/feel the rumble when the passenger side was jacked up.
I did drive the vehicle on my outdoor ramp/pit so I could use my crutches and get underneath to have a look. I grabbed the cv axles and they feel solid. The propeller shaft was replaced last year, and the cv axles look brand new. (bought the vehicle off a friend two years ago.).
So, are my suspicions correct, is it the pass. side wheel bearing? The Explorer has 294000kms. Never did test it on corners as I didn't want to swerve back and forth on the highway with the amount of traffic.
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Is there an issue/TSB with 03 Camry regarding the steering?
I never drove it much until my 96 Corolla died out, and a couple of years back I started to noticed a little play in the steering wheel that is getting more noticeable.
When I took it to the stealership they told me no TSB but we could suggest a lubricant pack.
When I go over bumps in the road now I can sometimes now her a small click sound.
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Last night our prius started making a mechanical sound when we shift into forward or reverse.
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I put a ts6 on my 2001 7.3. I love it shift points are better and truck has a lot more power. But I've noticed when I shift truck shifts into 3 (especially going uphill) I get a really weird turbo sound where it acts like its gasping for air (I have 6637 air filter) and then it shifts kinda rough into third. If I put chip on stock setting it doesn't do either of the things I described. Do I have loose turbo boots somewhere or possible bad turbo bearings?
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I'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac 4wd with 299,000 miles. There is what sounds like wheel bearing noise (grinding) that was noticed after returning from a trip where I flat towed it behind my rv. I did not notice the noise the last time I drove it - before towing it about 450 miles. I have towed this vehicle for many years and miles this way - transmission and transfer case in neutral with key in on position to unlock steering. I stated this part about the towing because the noise may have gone unnoticed for many miles. About 20,000 miles ago, I changed front wheel bearings, brake calipers, upper and lower ball joints, shocks and outer tie rod ends. Also rear brake pads.
I put the vehicle on jack stands and in drive mode couldn't hear anything in either 2wd or 4wd. I held one wheel at a time so the other side would spin. After checking for wobbling wheel bearings, I took off the wheels and did a push / pull on everything - all seems good. I changed driver's side wheel bearing anyway because I thought it to be a little rough. I removed the front drive shaft and took it out on the road. Noise was still there. This makes me think front differential but before entering unknown territory (for me) is there something else I can do to narrow down the problem? At this point, I'm not even convinced it is from the front end - maybe the sound is radiating through the truck.
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My 99 5.4 V8 2wd truck is having AC problems. Everything started this time last year when my ac pulley bearing went out, I replaced it (pain in the neck) and everything worked fine until a few weeks ago. I was lubricating under the truck and i noticed the Clutch Hub and bolt had fell off. I went to a junkyard and took a new hub and bolt and 3 spacers and installed it in my truck. I tightened the bolt as hard as I could get it. The next few weeks the air was colder but i noticed the hub always spun with the pulley. It didn't matter if the ac was on or off the hub spun with the pulley 100% of the time.
I tried loosening it last weekend and it just spun freely never engaging it just rattled there. I got frustrated so i just tick the hub off. Now the pulley on the end of the compressor is just spinning with not hub bolted on it. I don't know what to do and i don't want to pay ford 1grand to put a new clutch and compressor in. The high pressure line also seems to be very greasy almost like there is an ac coolant leak there. I don't know if its bad to have the hub engaged 100% of the time or if its better to just not have one on there.
Also whenever I drive around town from 10-35 miles an hour my truck squeaks as it goes over bumps, it sounds like a dogs chew tow it is driving me crazy and i cant replicate it by moving my truck around when its in park and I don't know where its coming from. My truck has 141K on it I'm in college so I have to fix everything myself pretty much.
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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As soon as I stepped on the brake and started to move backwards out of the garage, pedal pulsed and ABS light came on. Now it comes on shortly after starting and stepping on the brakes. I just finished the drivers side wheel bearing, u-joint, brake pads, rotors, outer axle stub, and all "outer axles" seals replacement.
AllAboutMPG offered a suggestion about shims on the sensor and checking the ring (never done this, figure it out when I'm there later today?) I figured I'd put this here for some additional input and (hopefully!) later be a good search source and fix for fellow members
Here is the original thread. I installed a Timken complete wheel hub unit with new sensor already installed on the hub.
[URL] ....
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i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
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I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
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Okay so in my 99 f150 ecsb 4x4 i believe i spun a bearing. its making an awful noise. I was wondering if it was possible to drop the oil pan while the truck is in the air and change the spun bearing. is this possible to do? with 205,000 miles on it...
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