I have had my 2001 F150 Supercrew for about six months. After yesterday's rain, I noticed there is now water dripping inside from around the passenger side entry assist hand. I opened the sunroof/moonroof but didn't see anything obvious there.
View 14 RepliesJust did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
View 1 RepliesI have a f150 with a 5.4L with 354,000 miles on it. It started leaking water somewhere on the front of the motor on the passenger side. it looks like it is under where the heater hose connects to the intake. I guess my question is can the water eat a hole in the intake?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 started dripping water the other day from the ceiling handle. The drain hoses do not appear to be plugged, water runs freely out. I pulled off the headliner around the place of the leak, and I can kind of see a plastic attachment with the drain hose on the corner of the sunroof frame. The water is coming from somewhere from it, but not from the hose attachment.
My question is, Do I have to replace the sunroof frame? Is it difficult to do? Or can I get away epoxying around the leak if it's small enough? In any case, how hard is it to remove the headliner?
My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
I though I would like the tailgate step and assist handle. They are always in the way and I want to get rid of the handle but keep the step if possible. Can I remove the plastic tailgate cover, pull the hande and re-install a metal tailgate cover.
If not, want to swap a tailgate. Its red, has the back-up camera and, no dealer markings and in excellent condition.
2002 F-150 XLT. Came with factory keyless entry. The remote type, not the keypad on the door.
A few months ago I noticed the remote would not unlock or lock the doors when I pressed the remote buttons. Usually after a few tries it would work though. Fast forward to Sunday and now the remote doesn't seem to work at all.
I changed the battery in the remote. No difference. Then I then reprogrammed the remote and it worked fine locking and unlocking the door. So I thought I was in the clear. Then this [Tuesday] morning I try hitting the button on the remote and sure enough it's not doing anything.
I'm really stumped what to do here. Could the receiver in the truck be bad? The truck isn't driven a whole lot. But the battery in the truck has enough juice to start the truck. So I don't think that's the problem. Any guesses?
I am trying to add a keyless entry to the already equip, power door locks but am having problems figuring the wiring schematic
View 8 RepliesWhat would be involved with removing the keyless entry system on my '02 F150 XLT so that I can install it into my '97 Explorer that I am fixing up. Is it integrated into the main computer or is it a totally separate system? If so where is it located?
The Expo already has power locks just not keyless (or at least I never received the key fob for it when I bought it) I have shaved the door lock cylinders and am fabricating handles to be hidden in the window moldings.
I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 F150 SuperCrew with factory keyless entry fobs. I would like to be able to leave my truck running, take the keyless entry fob with me, and then lock the doors. Currently, the keyless entry fobs are disabled when the truck is running and I'd be locked out of the truck. I've had newer Fords that would allow the fobs to stay active with the vehicle running. Do this can be programmed into the truck?
View 5 RepliesIf your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
View 5 RepliesI've had my camry 3-weeks and discovered lots of clear clean water under the carpet on the passenger side front and rear. Thought carpet was still wet from cleaning when I bought the car.Sucked up over a gallon, then removed the passenger seat and lifted the carpet/padding to find more than another gallon, clean and clear water in front and back floor. Floor drain plugs OK. And no sign/smell of antifreeze. Which eliminates the heater core. Have a moonroof, and no have not left the windows or roof open during lots of recent rain.
View 10 RepliesI've got a water leak in to the cab of my truck. I have a 1999 with the Super cab. I'm pretty sure it is at the back wall of the cab. There are two rectangular (I guess) vents that duct to the out side. The floorboard is not wet, but the very bottom of the carpet on the passenger side is. What are these vents for? We've had a lot of rain, I figure that's where the water is coming from. What is an easy fix this.
View 4 RepliesWater drips in on the passenger side from the headliner just above where the handle is bolted to the frame (next to the windshield) after a good rain.
View 3 RepliesSo the water pump on my early 99 (158k miles) is starting to leak just sitting in the driveway, did a little research last night and read a few write ups. Just wondering if any tips or tricks I could use to make this go easier. Also any list of parts I should replace and/or might need. I read on one write up about replacing it with an Airtex water pump and was wondering about what people thought of those, I would rather fix it right then just go with the cheapest parts. Possibly there are better brand water pumps out there?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
My truck over heated and I now have a looks like a pin hole leak next to the front injector on the left side looking at it. I have used sealers and it does not work. Water pools around the injector. Does this sound like a cracked intake housing? I have done many repairs but this is something I'm not sure I want to do. I can get a new intake setup for 160.00 on rock auto but ford would be in the 300 or more just for the part.
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