Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Water In 4WD Vacuum Actuator
Feb 15, 2015
I have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
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Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
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1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
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I have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
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I have a 2004 FX4 4x4 ... Four wheel drive is not working!!!!! Turn the dash switch to 4High or 4Low and the lights come on in my dash gauge cluster. So my 4x4 lights come on as if the 4x4 is working but my front wheels do not turn. What I have done:
Drove the truck forward while I watched the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. Did this in 2WD and then in 4WD high. While driving forward in 2WD the front drive shaft did not move. Once put into 4WD high and driven forward the front drive shaft was turning. I guess this tells me that my transfer case and shift motor are working?
I jacked up my driver side front wheel and turned the tire by hand while the truck was running in 2WD. The tire spun freely and the CV axle (half shaft) did not turn. Then turned 4x4 dash switch to 4WD high and turned the tire again by hand and the CV axle turned while turning the tire. I guess this indicates that the IWE actuator was working....I guess???
Repeated the process above for the front passenger side of the truck and the tire would always spin freely regardless if in 2WD or 4WD. I could not get the CV axle to turn while spinning the tire on the passenger side when the truck was running and switched to 4WD
I checked the vacuum solenoid near the battery mounted on the firewall. The vacuum line supplying vacuum to solenoid was working and pulling vacuum. I did a series of test in conjunction with the dashboard 4x4 selector and the Vacuum Solenoid seemed to be working properly.
Crawled under the truck while the engine was running and pulled the vacuum line off the nipples of each IWE Actuators (drive and passenger side) put my finger over the lines and felt decent vacuum at each end of each vacuum line.
So dash switch and 4x4 light works stays on solid and bright does not flicker
Vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines seem to be working
Transfer case and shift motor seem to be working
Driver side IWE actuator seems to work
Front passenger side Actuator does not seem to be working??? Why I am so confused about this is because in HOURS of Internet research it seems that this Actuator is not allowed to engage by vacuum pressure. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator I expected to hub to lock, but it did not, the tire would turn but the CV axle wouldn't? If I replace the passenger side IWE actuator will this fix my four wheel drive? Or is there something else I am missing??
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I'm working on a 03 Lariat F150 with vac. controlled 4x4 (I'm new to this one). Transfer case works, ft drive shaft turns, but the front axle wont engage. The servo works, and the linkage is tight on the shaft, and the shaft turns back and forth, and the ft axle can be engage manually by working the small lever back and forth with the servo disconnected, but when zip-tied in place it doesn't stay in 4x4, so something is broken, worn out, or disconnected inside the housing.
Also I repositioned the servo back a bit with a spacer to make sure it wasn't a length of travel issue, and is not - the problem is definitely inside - the linkage feels sloppy when manipulated with the servo off.
Since Ive never had one of these apart I thought Id ask first (also a new thing for me), so I'd know what parts to get (I don't live "in town"), and I figger this isn't the first one of these to break. So I am sitting down - what am I in for??? It looks pretty straight forward, but somehow I doubt it is...
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What is the easiest (DIY) way to replace the Vacuum Actuator (switch?) in a 1995 Chev Blazer with an Automatic Transmission, 4WD?
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I have 97 4x4 f-150 V6 4.2 litre that in 2wd tries to go into 4wd causing a grinding then a thump. When I put the truck into 4wd there is no grinding or thumping.
I believe one of the vacuum solenoids could be bad. Just was wondering which one would cause it to want to go into 4wd while in 2wd. The left most solenoid looking under the hood is the 4wd and the other with the pink vacuum is the 2wd.
I have no vacuum from the solenoids but from the lines going into them.
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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Looking for the vacuum diagrams for the four wheel drive, where I can find them?
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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1997 f150 electronic 4wd not working, lights on dash not working(they light up on start up) replaced transfer case motor still not working, checked all fuses, Do not feel or hear clicks on vacuum solenoid, Top vacuum lines on both have vacuum. Where do I go from here? What do I check next....
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This has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
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Question. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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I had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
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I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
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I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
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I got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
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I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
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I've had this problem for a little while now, my 97' F150 V8 4.6L, has been running real loud and heavy. When it starts up it sounds like a race car. It finally shot me a code for P0171 - Bank 1 (passenger side) running too lean. From what I've read, this is most likely a vacuum leak but I don't know too much about it.
A couple of things I've noticed while driving it around:
1. If you are in the engine compartment while its running, you smell the excess gas on the passenger side of the truck.
2. The exhaust also smells really heavy
3. The loud and heavy running is mainly when accelerating, if I maintain a constant speed at for a little while it almost starts to run normal. Cruising down the highway its almost just as quiet as before the issue
4. Engine coolant heats up much more quickly, but doesn't get above operating temperature (read from tuner, never above 200 degrees)
In response to the problem I replaced both the O2 sensors closest to the engine and the PCV and elbow. No change. Have a fuel filter ready to install, but for some reason I don't think that is it either, as it would probably effect both bank 1 and 2.
Like I said I'm not too well versed in the vacuum system but if any of these symptoms stand out I'd love to hear your thoughts.
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