Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Vibration Under Hard Acceleration From Stop
May 15, 2017
01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
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I bought a B5.5 wagon with 145kmi on it last week. It's a 1.8t with a tiptronic transmission.
Last night, when I stepped on the accelerator for the first time when it downshifted I got a nasty vibration until I let off. When just cruising or accelerating at a normal speed there is no vibration at all. It doesn't matter if you're doing 20 mph or 60mph, it's the same vibration when you accelerate hard.
I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or something?
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I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
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I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
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So this vibration/ cluncking seems to be from between the front seats and mostly during off the line acceration, and from all I can find it's the flex disc, but my flex disc shows no signs of damage. Can these discs go bad without looking bad or is this possibly the hanger bearing on the driveshaft?
I am also looking for any other possibilities for the cause of this vibation/ clunking as there sounds like something is hitting the bottom of the car but there are no impact marks to show me where the issue is
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
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I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
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I just brought my6 Speed Automatic Transmission Phaeton V8 in, because under hard acceleration mostly between 3+4 or 5+6 for a short moment a howling noise with vibration into gear selector appears. I was able to demonstrated it to the Technician, but he said there is not much to do because no Fault code will show up and if he ask VW they will say he needs a reference vehicle to replicate it.
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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But I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
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2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
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I recently had a flat tire - Schwabs fixed it. Then told me my rear brakes were bad so I replaced them. I noticed when coming to a stop the last 20-30 feet you can really feel the front end vibrate - almost like it is in 4wd but it is not. I checked the hubs and they are on auto and lifted the truck to spin the wheels and made sure everything was dis-engaged. My front rotors were bad so I replaced them and the pads thinking it was the root cause. I also greased the front wheel bearings using the little tool from riffraff diesel where you take out the speed sensor and insert grease.
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Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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So I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
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Need some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
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