I was pulling out of my driveway (it's quite steep) in 4x4, turned onto the road and heard a clunk.
I then took it out of 4x4 and continued on. I noticed it was vibrating more than usual. I turned out of a friends driveway (not in 4x4) after that and thought I heard another clunk. The vibrations seemed to get a lot worse after that.
I have a toyota avensis 2001 1.8 vvt-i. Suddenly when i was going to start the car, it started to vibrate and rpm got lower than usual and the engine light was lit. So i changed the spark plug (all of the four). It did still vibrate but less, i could feem it. And when i tried to drive upwards with 1st gear the car started to smell and couldn't get up. It lost do much power. It can drive max. 60 kmh
View 1 RepliesJust came back from lunch and the car seems to be vibrating more than usual. Engine is making some weird knocking noise. I think I also smelled fuel coming from the car. Could it be the cam tensioner?
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t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
View 2 RepliesWhy my truck shake/ vibrates only at high speeds above 65mph. Once I drop below 65 is smooth as can be.
View 14 Replies2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 RepliesI have been having some major issues with my truck!
The whole truck is vibrating when on. When I accelerate I hear a loud noise like something is hitting a fan. I'm scared to even drive it. The rpm's have been jumping around.
What could be causing this? I already replaces Fuel filters.
I have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.
On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.
The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.
It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.
But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.
Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.
They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...
Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).
Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).
But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.
My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.
So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.
2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
View 13 RepliesMy driveline has been vibrating for some time now. I changed out the rear u-joints with no improvement. I found the spline to be sloppy. I think I need a new driveshaft.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2003 Focus ZX5. Over the last year, it's run pretty well, but one problem I encountered was that it would not start (occasionally) if I drove in traffic for a while and the engine was warm (not overheated). I mentioned this to my mechanic when the serpentine belt was replaced several months ago, but he was not able to repeat the problem and diagnose it. A couple days ago, the car started to run terribly (vibrating) and struggling when I pressed the gas. I took it to the nearest mechanic (not my normal mechanic) and had the spark plugs and ignition coil replaced. It seems to have alleviated the problem. So . . . a couple questions:
Was the engine's difficulty starting related to the spark plugs?
On a separate note, the mechanic I just saw advised that some of the vibrations (for instance, in idle) could be resolved with new motor and transmission mounts, which is not cheap. Is it worth it?
I recently (1month ago) rebuilt my entire front end. The only things that were not replaced are track bar, steering box, front driveshaft, and sway bar bushings. I'm having the same issues that I had before the rebuild. It just feels like the front is is on basketballs. Hopping and vibrating at any speed or rpm. On a smooth road or on the highway it feels like I'm hitting bumps that aren't there.
View 14 RepliesMy idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
View 1 RepliesI've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevrolet pickup, the No.5 Spark Plug Builds up and fires to one side, I can drive up to 50 miles per hr and it misses once in a while, I can get up to 60-65 and it does the same. I changed out no.5 Fuel injector and it still misses, I changed out the seals on no 5 valve, I changed out the fuel filter; and the CSFI makes a whistling noise & the sequential fuel box makes a vibration. I can put the old filter back on and it doesn't whistle or vibrate. I put the new filter back on it whistles and vibrates the sequential fuel box. The trouble light does not come on and tells me to check the engine. Do I need to replace the fuel pump?
View 3 RepliesAbout a year and half ago I purchased a 2003 Honda Element and while it's a good car it has one noticeable issue. Whenever I'm driving between 50-70 mph there is a very noticeable vibrating sound throughout the car. More specifically the sound and vibrating seems to come from the the front and rear wheels. Also when I go over bumps or potholes there are prominent clunks up front as well. Would this have to do with my tire rods, CV boots or even struts?
View 2 RepliesAccording to the scan gauge... I used to run about 195-200* all the time no matter what.
Now days i find myself up into the 220s and with my boat on ill see 235 climbing a hill.
Good deltas between the water/oil temps.
I wanna get back to my 200's.
I pressure washed out (on low) the front radiator and all the coolers, I didn't get much out and they didn't look dirty.
I am thinking water pump or plugged radiator?
Couple days ago the cab of my truck started shaking some more than usual. Its gotten worse now, however. Happens the worst around 60-80km, light on the throttle just cruising in overdrive, whole cab shakes badly. Chop the throttle and its completely gone, any heavy on the throttle and it's gone as well. Does it loaded and unloaded. Okay at highway speeds but like i said around 70km its bad. I've got my guesses but what really it is?? Truck runs fine otherwise...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 4x4, 5.4l auto. the truck sits a lot during the summer due to me riding the motorcycle instead. After sitting for nearly 3 weeks, I fired it up and went to pull out of the driveway. I notice right away that the steering wheel was a lot harder to turn than usual. I've jacked the truck up and took the weight off the front tires, it turns back and forth like normal. when the weight is back on it, it's hard to turn again. I've checked the power steering fluid and its at the full level. I hear no noises coming from the pump. Am I looking at needing to replace the rack and pinion or is there possibly another issue that can be causing this.
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