Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Vertical Weatherstrip Touching Glass Of Sliding Section Tore Off - Repair?
Sep 1, 2016
When I opened my sliding rear window yesterday the vertical weatherstrip that touches the glass of the sliding section tore off.
Is there a way of repairing that?
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My 2002 has a sliding rear window. I noticed the rubber weatherstripping pieces that seal the sliding piece of glass was out of place. I slid the window open and it fell off. I then looked at the others and they were being held on by a thread.
I took them off. There is black rubber or weatherstrip adhesive in the tracks the strips came from. Do I need to scraped that out and reapply adhesive? Is there a video or tutorial on this somewhere?
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So found my rear slider latch laying in seat the other day. Picked up rear view mirror glue today. It's only for metal Surface.
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How to repair some scratches in the center console on an IS F? The scratches are in the vertical black plastic section of the center console. I stupidly scratched it one day I needed to take the driver seat out, when I was putting the seat back in the car. The scratches are basically where the buckle for the seat belt is (to the right of your right leg, if you're the driver.)
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I am having a problem with my sliding rear glass where when I attempt to open the glass, the pull cable barely moves. When I push the close button it will eventually pull the close cable tight and close the window. (The length of time it takes to pull the cable tight in the closed direction depends on how long I had attempted to open the window, i.e. when I'm pushing the open button it looks like all I'm doing is making slack in the cable and not really pulling it open at all)
I have done some research on how to access the motor behind the seat, but have not gotten a chance to investigate further.
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Got a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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Trying to replace sliding glass motor, quit working and had to cut the cable to shut it due to the rain. It appears I need to remove the seat belts & covers next.
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06' CC F-250... Manual rear sliding glass is pretty rough to open and close, other than cleaning out that track, is there a good spot to put a drop of white lithium grease? Do you have to yank off the rear interior panel to clean it out all the way or would a shop vac with a sharp tip do the trick?
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I have a M5OD that I replaced the clutch in in my '99 150 4wd in December . Manual Tranny. Now when taking off in 1st gear the transmission seems to be sliding or shifting backwards, but only in first gear. Got under my truck and looked, can't find any identifying marks to where it might be moving or what is causing this. All frame mounts are tight and the bell housing is flush with the motor. Yes, i did do the clutch change myself in shop class.
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2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat, the back window is the factory sliding window, it is leaking around the top on the drivers side, leaks bad. Question is how easy is it to remove the window and replace the seal?
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I noticed a few weeks ago when I was in the bed of my truck that the black plastic trim piece around the rear window appears to be broken. it's on the left side near the top. when I look down there it looks like the brackets are broken on one side. I've never noticed any water leak back there. I'd like to definitely get it fixed, but I don't think the dealer would have a listing for it anymore if it's not crazy expensive. I looked at LMC truck and there doesn't seem to be what I need on there. It's a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew non-sliding window.
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Last weekend my number 4 spark plug blew out while on the highway. The truck stayed on long enough for me to get off the highway and pull over before it died. I towed the truck home. Last night I repaired it with a helicoil and replace the spark plug and coil. Now the truck cranks but won't start. I noticed that my theft light flashes fast and doesn't stop after a few seconds or during cranking. I still haven't tested relays or fuses because it was late after the repair. I will be checking those tonight.
I will be reading and taking suggestions and posting my results tonight while I'm working on the truck. I will be checking the fuel pump and PCM relay tonight. I will also try 2 different keys and checking the Inertia switch on the fuel pump to see if that tripped. The truck is a 2001 F-150 Lariat Supercrew with 150k miles on it. 5.4 liter engine.
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I bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
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So the black weatherstrip that goes around the door falls off along the bottom of the door (especially the driver's side) like once or twice every year? I've had the dealer replaced brand new ones twice already and re-glue them another 2-3 times but seems like it just wont' hold on to the door. Now I am out of warranty and the weatherstrip just fell off again, try to see if there's any solutions to this.
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Is it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
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Is it easy to replace the retractable rear window shade? My wife stuck something in the back and when it moved up, it tore the screen.
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Just tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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My crew cab got T-boned last week and I'm looking for parts to fix it if insurance keeps messing around. Is it possible to use the entire cab corner from a regular cab instead of a crew cab?
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Parts came from Riffraft Diesel Performance. A set of "o" rings for the injectors. High flow CVD fittings for the fuel lines. Turbo rebuild kit. (its got 210,000+ miles) Anti Surge compressor wheel.(ok its not part of the oil problem)
Photos to come. I will take during the rebuild.
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