Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Vacuum Leak On PCV Hosing - P1131 Error Code
Jul 13, 2014
I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
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My car has lost power. The engine seems bogged down and it has a significant sputter when accelerating and acts like it wants to die when idle. I am getting error code P1131. AutoZone did not give me any info on the code. I have changed the plugs and wires. I have been told this might be o2 sensors but after reading other stuff here, it looks like maybe a vacuum leak? I am not sure where to start at diagnosing this issue.
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I am having problems with a 2003 Ford F 150 with a 4.2 L V6. The problem is that it is giving me code errors that would indicate bad O2 sensors. I replaced both the upper and lower O2 sensors, and still I get the same codes. I was told by the mechanic with the computer reader that this usually means a bad vacuum seal. He suggested looking for bad hoses, but did not offer much more than that. How to proceed?
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I had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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This has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
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I've had this problem for a little while now, my 97' F150 V8 4.6L, has been running real loud and heavy. When it starts up it sounds like a race car. It finally shot me a code for P0171 - Bank 1 (passenger side) running too lean. From what I've read, this is most likely a vacuum leak but I don't know too much about it.
A couple of things I've noticed while driving it around:
1. If you are in the engine compartment while its running, you smell the excess gas on the passenger side of the truck.
2. The exhaust also smells really heavy
3. The loud and heavy running is mainly when accelerating, if I maintain a constant speed at for a little while it almost starts to run normal. Cruising down the highway its almost just as quiet as before the issue
4. Engine coolant heats up much more quickly, but doesn't get above operating temperature (read from tuner, never above 200 degrees)
In response to the problem I replaced both the O2 sensors closest to the engine and the PCV and elbow. No change. Have a fuel filter ready to install, but for some reason I don't think that is it either, as it would probably effect both bank 1 and 2.
Like I said I'm not too well versed in the vacuum system but if any of these symptoms stand out I'd love to hear your thoughts.
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So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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Recently I have been having a strong gas smell coming from my 1997 F150 Supercab 4.6L 2wd. It is not happening all of the time. I have also been hearing what sounds like a vacuum line leak. A loud shrill which varies with the engine rpm. This also does not happen all of the time.
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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Truck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
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Have this code Po155 oxy sensor heated bank 2 sen 1. I have replaced all sensor in the tail pips and check engine light code still comes on.
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I am in the process of trying to chase down a vacuum leak on my 2003 F150 with the 5.4. I have checked all lines and cannot find it. I decided to check the long term fuel trim and noticed that my bank 1 is slightly higher than bank 2 (screenshot attached). Is this enough to assume the leak is on the bank 1 side?
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About 3 days ago I noticed my engine RPM was around 250 higher than usual. Usually my truck idles around 550-600 rpm (I know this is low). Anyway, yesterday it threw the P1506 "IAC over Speed Error" Code. It is idling very rough, shifting weird, but does crank up fine.
My truck is now at 93,000 miles and I just cleaned the IAC at 87,000 miles due to the common no start condition. I guess I am going to get a new IAC now since another code came up.
Well, my question is it came up with two other codes also:
P0171 - System too Lean, Bank No. 1
P0174 - System too Lean, Bank No. 2
Do you think the P1506 (IAC Code) made the O2 Sensor codes show up or is it really the O2 Sensors? I just changed my two upstream O2 Sensors around 90,000 miles. Should I get a new IAC or try to clean it again?
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Looking for some experience/recommendations for the "what to do" and "in what order" for an error code. Recently the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on and has stayed on for the last 2 weeks. It has don this before after a heavy rain but went off after a few days but not this time. I took it to Advance Auto who hooked it up to a Trouble Code Reader and got back "PO174- Bank 2 system to lean". From what I've read from the Haynes book and other forum postings this is either a O2 sensor issue or a intake manifold gasket issue? Does this sound right? Next is how to go about addressing this issue in a systematic manner so as not "fix" 10 things that don't need fixing and not running to mechanic and paying a buttload for something I can do myself for less.
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What that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
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1999 F150 4.2L 125K miles.... My problems started about a month ago. I had a P1506 error. The engine was running fine but received the error code. I replaced the IAC and the air filter. Engine still running fine. A week later I received a code for the Intake Air Temp Sensor (don't remember the code). The engine still running great. I bought a new Air Temp Sensor and noticed the wires from the Air Temp Sensor were rubbing against the belt and had been severed. I made a mistake when replacing the air filter of not checking the wires (confession is good right).
The engine also constantly ran a fast idle 2000 to 2500 at this time. I repaired the wires. The engine light went off and idle now starts great and smooth but when heats up will will go to 2000-2500. I then decided to replace the Air Temp Sensor hoping to fix idle problem. Engine still idle fast when warm. However, when I come to a stop and put in neutral the engine will take a minute but go down to normal idle after sitting. Engine light stayed off for a week. Now engine light back on with original code P1506. Idle is still not working correctly.
I feel like I made it worse than it was originally and not sure what to try next.
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
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I'm getting an error code 2-7 (flashes two times, pauses, then flashes seven times) when my truck starts up. It does this cycle twice then stays on permanently. It has only started doing this since last night when I replaced my factory tape deck with a factory Cd player from a 2002 F-150.
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