My f150 cranks but will not idle unless you hold the throttle at 2 rpm. It has not ran hot. There is no oil leaks.
I've changed the following parts:
Cam sensor
Crank sensor
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Coils
Spark plugs
Iac
Tbp
Maf
Fuel pressure
Pcv
I've have tried everything i can think of so i took it to a shop they said just get a new motor I don't think so.
This has happened twice in 3 years....I get regular service from a Ford dealer and am overdue.... I think it may be temp related. Has been below freezing the last few nights. Truck was parked on an incline during the last two "shutdowns" ( engine lower than bed slightly), I drifted to a level position and it started. This has only happened twice previously. Now it seems to be a permanent problem but I am unable to get to the dealer without a tow... which I am trying to avoid.
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose a no start issue on my son's 1997 F150 4.6L W code motor. It quit on him while driving and we haven't been able to get it re-started since. We immediately assumed the fuel pump was bad as we were not getting any fuel pressure and we cannot hear the pump running at key on. So we pulled the pump and bench tested it, and the pump itself seems fine.
We then checked for spark, we have spark in all cylinders. After that we started checking fuses and #30 under the dash was blown. We replaced that and it blew again at Key on. We ended up going through about a 1/2 dozen of them while poking and prodding at misc. wire harnesses trying to figure out why it keeps blowing. Today we put a new one in and have tried restarting and that one is not blowing anymore, but we still cannot get fuel pressure. We've checked all fuses and swapped relays around. We noticed that under the dash #20 and #21 do not have power, but the fuses are ok. Are we finally on to something here?
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
View 8 RepliesHave starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
View 6 RepliesSeveral months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
Here's the deal. Ive got a 2000 f150 4.6 4x4xlt 170000 miles, About 2 ears ago or so the truck would not start on the first try or two. now this only occurred every once and a while. Last winter it became more of a problem. All i had to do was cycle the key a couple times listen for the pump to prime and was good to go. Summer rolls around no problem at all. Fall rolls around and here we go again no prime. cycle the key a couple times good to go. As it gets colder the problem gets worse. No we fast forward to couple a weeks ago, was out in the woods cutting firewood i go to move the truck and it wont start. I have to cycle the key like 30-40 times. Now its doing it like every time i go to mov the truck until yesterday. Now it wont prime at all. Now every time it primed in the past it runs perfect after it starts . the filter has been changed every 12-15000 or every fall, Ive replaces the fuel pump relay to try it no change, tryed the other key no difference. Im leaning towards a pump but ive never heard of one doing this before.
View 6 RepliesAbout a month ago, my 2001 f150 supercrew (4x4 5.4L) didn't want to start one morning. This was after a very cold night (15 degree temps). It sounded like it had plenty of juice in the battery (cranked good), just wouldn't start. Later in the day, after it warmed up, still no start. I dug thru here, and someone recommended disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute then retrying. I did it, and it worked. All was good.
About a week ago, no start in the morning again. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After several hours, it just seemed to randomly start, and all was well again.
Today, truck started right up in the morning, but later in the afternoon (warm winter day 45 degrees) no start. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After screwing with the truck for about an hour, I decided to put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. NO fuel pressure.
Is fuel pressure associated with the PATS, or is this a straight up fuel system problem?
Additional info: My gas tank fell out this summer, (recall on those tank straps), and I had a new tank, pump, straps and lines installed. I had a no crank, no start issue this summer, but that turned out to be the transmission not registering in park. I assume the two issues are unrelated.
The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
View 9 RepliesSo I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
01 supercrew 4.6. Have had intermittent no start. The first few times it did start with a jump. Cranks fine but I thought the battery was weak. Replaced battery, same issue. 40 psi gas pressure at the fuel rail with analog gage. Theft light blinks with battery inserted. Theft light not illuminated while cranking. Battery light flashes while cranking. Battery is brand-new and charged. Opened and closed inertia switch several times to check.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
View 4 RepliesLast night my boyfriend took a friend to the check cashing store, truck ran fine. shut it off, and when he came out the truck would not start. it cranks over but won't start. Took ignition coil off and had it tested but its fine. What else could be wrong or what can i do to try to get it to start again.
View 5 RepliesIt driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
View 2 RepliesDoing some research for my dad, we got a 2001 F150 with the 4.2L v6. Recently, we've been having an intermittent starting problem. It'll start, run & drive perfectly with no problem some days. Then some days the truck wont start. It will crank perfectly fine, sometimes start & then run rough for about 5 seconds then die again. Usually happens when the truck is warmed up & has been started, driven & shut off multiple times. We've replaced the fuel filter & the pcv valve i believe & still no luck. We take it to our mechanic & it starts right up every time for him. This problem has me, my dad & our mechanic stumped.
View 1 Replies1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.
Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out
Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.
Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low
I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.
Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.
OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
All of a sudden my 2002 F150 6cyl, will crank but won't start. First thing I did was hook up my timing light to see if I'm getting spark when I crank. Tried a few different plug wires.....no spark. Can a coil just go out like that? I have a multimeter, what do I check to see if the plug that goes to the coil is providing correct power and input?
View 14 RepliesSo I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4